Then use stainless steel zip ties. Problem solved.

 

While those have a purpose, using metal (edges) on wire is probably not a good idea with possibility of chafing Seriously though, something like an insulated cable holder/clamp would be nice or else they make all sorts of cool hold-downs...If you're using convoluted split loom cable sleeving, they make some cool little fasteners that go in there that can either snap over an existing stud or screwed down with an existing bolt, etc...

Like I said, I've used nylon cable ties (aka tie wraps, zip ties, etc.) in the past and sometimes they work (not the cheapies), but over time I've also had them become brittle and break. Most applications it's fine, but if we're talking something critical, then personally, I'd look at something else. Besides, IMO, they (can) just look cheap and unless you use an end wire cutter or a tie wrap tool, the edges like to cut your hands and stuff, lol.

 

30 mile tow home, drive to store get battery cable, hook up and you save yourself 550 bucks. It is what it is though.

 

Or I can just have it done by the dealership. Way easier.

 

There must be more to it than that, the guy is not going to fork over that kind of cash if it was that easy.

 

On a lot of GM's, it is not just some thick cable, but rather it's like 1/2 the wiring harness. It's generally a PITA to replace. Which is why it is so infuriating when a battery leaks all over one...

 

Yeah, if this is a replace it to oem specs-type job I can see how it could be so expensive; especially since they like to group things into bigger harness assemblies. Normally I'd say screw the dealer for any repairs beyond warranty, but sometimes it is nice to have it replaced "as the factory made it" on a car like this (as in screw hack jobs). Still, that is a lot of $ and sorry to hear about that, but good lesson to learn on future projects with nowhere to work on a car and lack of tools/resources, it could be hard to deal with modifications ($), I'd think, but so long as you enjoy it...

 

+1 on the coating inside/outside. Much more effective that just outside coating.

Also, check out JEG'S or Summit for DEI Products heat sleeves and wraps. They have both tubes and Velcro tubes that are extra handy to put on without the need to disassemble anything.

Some retaining tabs fabricated from stainless or aluminum and strategically located can also eliminate (or greatly reduce) the possibility of contact.

 

I second that. Anyone can throw another 4 gauge(or whatever it is) in there and make it work, but the factory "look" would he a PITA to maintain just by the looks of the wrapped loom. The 750 would be worth it in my book.

 

I'm going to need to wrap some portions of my headers, I actually keep getting a spark plug wire blowing out, because its sitting on the header

 

this thread sucks.. sorry to hear about it whiss...

side note .. i was under my bitch today and the CS grey MM look brand new + the heat shielding every where looks strong.. wrap it up boys..

 

what it cost u for the coatings..