Hendrix Engineering - Fortuitous Purchase?
04-18-2011, 01:36 PM
#42
http://www.spectergtr.com/performance.html is the manufacturer of the subframe bushings for the 04-05.
They will increase noise in the cabin. It will help if you are tracking the car.
The pinion brace won't help much from my point of view.
Get a UUC or other front diff mount bushing, much easier to replace while you are at it.
Do not dump the clutch in this beast with this diff, it WILL break period.
Good luck.
Oh ya ctsvparts.com has a list of some parts and pieces. Might help.
They will increase noise in the cabin. It will help if you are tracking the car.
The pinion brace won't help much from my point of view.
Get a UUC or other front diff mount bushing, much easier to replace while you are at it.
Do not dump the clutch in this beast with this diff, it WILL break period.
Good luck.
Oh ya ctsvparts.com has a list of some parts and pieces. Might help.
04-18-2011, 02:26 PM
#43
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04-18-2011, 03:27 PM
#44
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http://www.spectergtr.com/performance.html is the manufacturer of the subframe bushings for the 04-05.
They will increase noise in the cabin. It will help if you are tracking the car.
The pinion brace won't help much from my point of view.
Get a UUC or other front diff mount bushing, much easier to replace while you are at it.
Do not dump the clutch in this beast with this diff, it WILL break period.
Good luck.
Oh ya ctsvparts.com has a list of some parts and pieces. Might help.
They will increase noise in the cabin. It will help if you are tracking the car.
The pinion brace won't help much from my point of view.
Get a UUC or other front diff mount bushing, much easier to replace while you are at it.
Do not dump the clutch in this beast with this diff, it WILL break period.
Good luck.
Oh ya ctsvparts.com has a list of some parts and pieces. Might help.
04-18-2011, 07:49 PM
#46
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I'm actually not trying to have a killer build immediately. I wanted to address the weak points of the car as best as I could. That's pretty much the engine heat, the shifter, the clutch/flywheel and the diff. I'm not a drag racer. I'm a road course guy. So I wasn't going to do too much to the power until I felt that I was getting everything out of it on the track that I could. Since I was a dumbass and dropped the clutch and grenaded the whole thing, I did the hard but hopefully wise thing and did it as well as possible, considering that I don't have time to have something built for me. I need this car driving again before the weekend.
Assuming that I don't bite another piece of the idiot candy and that this setup is solid now, I'll have this part taken care of. I already did the Hendrix Clutch and Flywheel, which feel wonderful. I'm waiting on the engine heat issue because I'll likely do headers and Magnaflow soon (I know, I said no power mods were needed for me - here's why - As I understand it, I have to have the car tuned/flashed to put in a lower thermostat. I'm not going to have it flashed, just to pay to have it reflashed when I do the exhaust work. So I might bump the exhaust stuff up early so I can get the ECU taken care of to lower temps. Make sense?) I put a Katech shifter in it last week too (also did a pretty big stereo install, limo'd the windows, painted the wheels, and other silly stuff). So I've had the car for three weeks or so and it's gone through a bunch. Springs and MM spacers too, but I'm not too stoked about that. I might sell that stuff and just go KW V3s and be done for a while.
But after all this, my money is going in only for track time, tires and brakes. Once I'm consistent on my lap times, I'll decide what to do from there... or when something else breaks!
Hey guys, BTW - Thought I'd tell you where I got the Diff/Carrier, as well as the driveshaft, etc. www.Car-Part.com. It searches all salvage yards and overstock places. There are some really good buys out there.
Assuming that I don't bite another piece of the idiot candy and that this setup is solid now, I'll have this part taken care of. I already did the Hendrix Clutch and Flywheel, which feel wonderful. I'm waiting on the engine heat issue because I'll likely do headers and Magnaflow soon (I know, I said no power mods were needed for me - here's why - As I understand it, I have to have the car tuned/flashed to put in a lower thermostat. I'm not going to have it flashed, just to pay to have it reflashed when I do the exhaust work. So I might bump the exhaust stuff up early so I can get the ECU taken care of to lower temps. Make sense?) I put a Katech shifter in it last week too (also did a pretty big stereo install, limo'd the windows, painted the wheels, and other silly stuff). So I've had the car for three weeks or so and it's gone through a bunch. Springs and MM spacers too, but I'm not too stoked about that. I might sell that stuff and just go KW V3s and be done for a while.
But after all this, my money is going in only for track time, tires and brakes. Once I'm consistent on my lap times, I'll decide what to do from there... or when something else breaks!
Hey guys, BTW - Thought I'd tell you where I got the Diff/Carrier, as well as the driveshaft, etc. www.Car-Part.com. It searches all salvage yards and overstock places. There are some really good buys out there.
04-19-2011, 01:22 AM
#47
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Been there done that Welcome to the ctsv world. Couple of tips: Check the torque on the axle cv joint bolts. (easy to do after installed). Spray lots of silicone on the Specter Werkes bushings before installing. Make sure the coil springs are properly seated in their rubber perch's when raising cradle back up to frame. As suggested, aftermarket front diff mount bushing is a very good idea. Check for oblonged bolt holes where it mounts to frame, if need be go to larger diameter bolt and shim any space with washers.
when it comes time to hit the road course, we are having delrin bushings machined for the 04-07 V's suspension pivot points. Also just received rear 2pc rotors utillizing Coleman Racing rings with either 5 or 6 lug hats and parking brake compatable.
The engineering work is done and should have 2pc big front rotors that work with the V2 OEM 6 piston Brembo front calipers in either 5x4.75 or 6x115 bolt patterns. The front and rear Coleman Racing replacement rings will be the same size.
If you have any questions pm me for my cell number. Good luck
when it comes time to hit the road course, we are having delrin bushings machined for the 04-07 V's suspension pivot points. Also just received rear 2pc rotors utillizing Coleman Racing rings with either 5 or 6 lug hats and parking brake compatable.
The engineering work is done and should have 2pc big front rotors that work with the V2 OEM 6 piston Brembo front calipers in either 5x4.75 or 6x115 bolt patterns. The front and rear Coleman Racing replacement rings will be the same size.
If you have any questions pm me for my cell number. Good luck
Last edited by yooperLS6; 04-19-2011 at 01:26 AM. Reason: add pictures of 2pc rear rotors
04-19-2011, 02:06 PM
#48
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Yooper, that all sounds wonderful!
First off, I just got off the phone with Max at Creative Steel. It's crazy how cool all these guys are (Thomas, Max, Jordan at National Speed, Lee at DSS...).
Just ordered Creative Steel engine mounts, trans mount, front diff bushing and diff block. I may have some major redundancy with the BMR Pinion Brace. We'll see if I end up not using it all.
As far as the brakes, please keep my info. I'm very interested. Haven't put this car on the road course yet. How are the OEM brakes for fading? They're quite huge, and with the 8:19 at the N-Ring, I figured they were ok. Still, I've been looking for 2pc and not having any luck whatsoever. So this is wonderful.
Take care, and thanks again.
First off, I just got off the phone with Max at Creative Steel. It's crazy how cool all these guys are (Thomas, Max, Jordan at National Speed, Lee at DSS...).
Just ordered Creative Steel engine mounts, trans mount, front diff bushing and diff block. I may have some major redundancy with the BMR Pinion Brace. We'll see if I end up not using it all.
As far as the brakes, please keep my info. I'm very interested. Haven't put this car on the road course yet. How are the OEM brakes for fading? They're quite huge, and with the 8:19 at the N-Ring, I figured they were ok. Still, I've been looking for 2pc and not having any luck whatsoever. So this is wonderful.
Take care, and thanks again.
04-19-2011, 02:19 PM
#49
I'm actually not trying to have a killer build immediately. I wanted to address the weak points of the car as best as I could. That's pretty much the engine heat, the shifter, the clutch/flywheel and the diff. I'm not a drag racer. I'm a road course guy. So I wasn't going to do too much to the power until I felt that I was getting everything out of it on the track that I could. Since I was a dumbass and dropped the clutch and grenaded the whole thing, I did the hard but hopefully wise thing and did it as well as possible, considering that I don't have time to have something built for me. I need this car driving again before the weekend.
Assuming that I don't bite another piece of the idiot candy and that this setup is solid now, I'll have this part taken care of. I already did the Hendrix Clutch and Flywheel, which feel wonderful. I'm waiting on the engine heat issue because I'll likely do headers and Magnaflow soon (I know, I said no power mods were needed for me - here's why - As I understand it, I have to have the car tuned/flashed to put in a lower thermostat. I'm not going to have it flashed, just to pay to have it reflashed when I do the exhaust work. So I might bump the exhaust stuff up early so I can get the ECU taken care of to lower temps. Make sense?) I put a Katech shifter in it last week too (also did a pretty big stereo install, limo'd the windows, painted the wheels, and other silly stuff). So I've had the car for three weeks or so and it's gone through a bunch. Springs and MM spacers too, but I'm not too stoked about that. I might sell that stuff and just go KW V3s and be done for a while.
But after all this, my money is going in only for track time, tires and brakes. Once I'm consistent on my lap times, I'll decide what to do from there... or when something else breaks!
Hey guys, BTW - Thought I'd tell you where I got the Diff/Carrier, as well as the driveshaft, etc. www.Car-Part.com. It searches all salvage yards and overstock places. There are some really good buys out there.
Assuming that I don't bite another piece of the idiot candy and that this setup is solid now, I'll have this part taken care of. I already did the Hendrix Clutch and Flywheel, which feel wonderful. I'm waiting on the engine heat issue because I'll likely do headers and Magnaflow soon (I know, I said no power mods were needed for me - here's why - As I understand it, I have to have the car tuned/flashed to put in a lower thermostat. I'm not going to have it flashed, just to pay to have it reflashed when I do the exhaust work. So I might bump the exhaust stuff up early so I can get the ECU taken care of to lower temps. Make sense?) I put a Katech shifter in it last week too (also did a pretty big stereo install, limo'd the windows, painted the wheels, and other silly stuff). So I've had the car for three weeks or so and it's gone through a bunch. Springs and MM spacers too, but I'm not too stoked about that. I might sell that stuff and just go KW V3s and be done for a while.
But after all this, my money is going in only for track time, tires and brakes. Once I'm consistent on my lap times, I'll decide what to do from there... or when something else breaks!
Hey guys, BTW - Thought I'd tell you where I got the Diff/Carrier, as well as the driveshaft, etc. www.Car-Part.com. It searches all salvage yards and overstock places. There are some really good buys out there.
make sure you are able to get the latest part number diff, not sure what the number is though.
04-21-2011, 09:18 AM
#51
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In preparation for a day full of shipments, John Hancock of European Auto Garage has taken the rear of the car apart this morning. We're going to be posting up the full rebuild today in case anyone can benefit from the install. Their shop is spotless and wonderful. Despite the name of the shop, John is actually a big LS1 Tech guy, with a 700 or so HP WS6. He's the man for the job.
So I'll start off by showing pictures of the damage now that the parts are out of the car.
So I'll start off by showing pictures of the damage now that the parts are out of the car.
04-21-2011, 10:56 AM
#53
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Just one time!
Update: The axles just arrived and are massive. Very impressive. Pics to come soon. The used driveshaft was stated to have been in excellent condition and the center bearing is shot. Don't know what we're going to do about that. That totally sucks. The BMR Pinion Brace is in now too. Although UPS says that the diff will arrive today, they've already come by the shop twice. I'm really hoping to get this baby together today. Really don't know what to think about this driveshaft...
Update: The axles just arrived and are massive. Very impressive. Pics to come soon. The used driveshaft was stated to have been in excellent condition and the center bearing is shot. Don't know what we're going to do about that. That totally sucks. The BMR Pinion Brace is in now too. Although UPS says that the diff will arrive today, they've already come by the shop twice. I'm really hoping to get this baby together today. Really don't know what to think about this driveshaft...
04-21-2011, 07:21 PM
#55
TECH Fanatic
04-22-2011, 11:53 AM
#56
Blakt out,
I am working with Chris @ Gforce right now having a new 2 peice driveshaft made. Might want to give him a call and see if you can piggyback off my order, and get it made a little faster.
There don't seem to be a lot of options for a DS:
1) Another oem (for what $1700 or $1300?). The center carrier bearing is crap.
2) GForce 2 peice (about 2 week lead time).
3) DSS is working on thier 1 peice. Note I called and talked to them, and they indicated that their alluminum solution probably woudn't work for me (I run at VIR, and want to be able to get up to 160 on the back straight eventually, with 35 series hoosiers & stock 3.73's), that I'd have to wait for a CF version. My mechanic ran dirt track for a long time, and told me to steer clear of the CF ones, as they can crack/snap from debris on the track in his experience.
4) Hub Garage has a 2 piece model that also appears to be made to order. I never called them.
Give Chris @ GForce a call, and see if he can work on expediting something for you (er, I mean us
)
-Chris
I am working with Chris @ Gforce right now having a new 2 peice driveshaft made. Might want to give him a call and see if you can piggyback off my order, and get it made a little faster.
There don't seem to be a lot of options for a DS:
1) Another oem (for what $1700 or $1300?). The center carrier bearing is crap.
2) GForce 2 peice (about 2 week lead time).
3) DSS is working on thier 1 peice. Note I called and talked to them, and they indicated that their alluminum solution probably woudn't work for me (I run at VIR, and want to be able to get up to 160 on the back straight eventually, with 35 series hoosiers & stock 3.73's), that I'd have to wait for a CF version. My mechanic ran dirt track for a long time, and told me to steer clear of the CF ones, as they can crack/snap from debris on the track in his experience.
4) Hub Garage has a 2 piece model that also appears to be made to order. I never called them.
Give Chris @ GForce a call, and see if he can work on expediting something for you (er, I mean us
)-Chris
04-22-2011, 12:24 PM
#57
I have a 33K mile DS sitting in my garage waiting for this scenario... if you need it I have a price tag on it... send the other POS back - and buy mine.
I have the 2 piece from G-Force/DSS... it's a MONSTER! Chris made the adapter for the three finger tranny output to the diff, but the rear of my shaft is altered a bit for the u-joint to 9" conversion, so can't tell you what evil would go into adapting the shaft to the 6 bolt nose, but the shaft itself is ominous when compared to the original.
I have the 2 piece from G-Force/DSS... it's a MONSTER! Chris made the adapter for the three finger tranny output to the diff, but the rear of my shaft is altered a bit for the u-joint to 9" conversion, so can't tell you what evil would go into adapting the shaft to the 6 bolt nose, but the shaft itself is ominous when compared to the original.
04-22-2011, 02:38 PM
#58
TECH Fanatic
I have a 33K mile DS sitting in my garage waiting for this scenario... if you need it I have a price tag on it... send the other POS back - and buy mine.
I have the 2 piece from G-Force/DSS... it's a MONSTER! Chris made the adapter for the three finger tranny output to the diff, but the rear of my shaft is altered a bit for the u-joint to 9" conversion, so can't tell you what evil would go into adapting the shaft to the 6 bolt nose, but the shaft itself is ominous when compared to the original.
I have the 2 piece from G-Force/DSS... it's a MONSTER! Chris made the adapter for the three finger tranny output to the diff, but the rear of my shaft is altered a bit for the u-joint to 9" conversion, so can't tell you what evil would go into adapting the shaft to the 6 bolt nose, but the shaft itself is ominous when compared to the original.
04-22-2011, 03:00 PM
#59
Blakt out,
I am working with Chris @ Gforce right now having a new 2 peice driveshaft made. Might want to give him a call and see if you can piggyback off my order, and get it made a little faster.
There don't seem to be a lot of options for a DS:
1) Another oem (for what $1700 or $1300?). The center carrier bearing is crap.
2) GForce 2 peice (about 2 week lead time).
3) DSS is working on thier 1 peice. Note I called and talked to them, and they indicated that their alluminum solution probably woudn't work for me (I run at VIR, and want to be able to get up to 160 on the back straight eventually, with 35 series hoosiers & stock 3.73's), that I'd have to wait for a CF version. My mechanic ran dirt track for a long time, and told me to steer clear of the CF ones, as they can crack/snap from debris on the track in his experience.
4) Hub Garage has a 2 piece model that also appears to be made to order. I never called them.
Give Chris @ GForce a call, and see if he can work on expediting something for you (er, I mean us)
-Chris
I am working with Chris @ Gforce right now having a new 2 peice driveshaft made. Might want to give him a call and see if you can piggyback off my order, and get it made a little faster.
There don't seem to be a lot of options for a DS:
1) Another oem (for what $1700 or $1300?). The center carrier bearing is crap.
2) GForce 2 peice (about 2 week lead time).
3) DSS is working on thier 1 peice. Note I called and talked to them, and they indicated that their alluminum solution probably woudn't work for me (I run at VIR, and want to be able to get up to 160 on the back straight eventually, with 35 series hoosiers & stock 3.73's), that I'd have to wait for a CF version. My mechanic ran dirt track for a long time, and told me to steer clear of the CF ones, as they can crack/snap from debris on the track in his experience.
4) Hub Garage has a 2 piece model that also appears to be made to order. I never called them.
Give Chris @ GForce a call, and see if he can work on expediting something for you (er, I mean us
)-Chris
either way i havent heard of many of them failing.
04-22-2011, 03:00 PM
#60
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Why is nothing easy?
The new differential is the right part number, and it is beautiful... except for the fact that they removed the bushing with an air hammer and cracked the housing, the bolts at the output shaft have been out and then reinstalled (so they've been inside of it) and an impact was used, cracking the diff there, and the output shaft is bent.
Please help if you can. I need a Gen 4 diff immediately.
The new differential is the right part number, and it is beautiful... except for the fact that they removed the bushing with an air hammer and cracked the housing, the bolts at the output shaft have been out and then reinstalled (so they've been inside of it) and an impact was used, cracking the diff there, and the output shaft is bent.
Please help if you can. I need a Gen 4 diff immediately.