siggyfreud

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone post a few dyno sheets of Maggied cars? I'd be interested in seeing the torque curve.

Arguments can be made either way depend on the use of the vehicle. With a stock rear, 500 at lower RPMS only is going to be rather useless.

But on the street, 500 is also going to be useless in the upper RPMS into and past second, unless you're in areas where you can regularly do 70mph+.

I haven't seen enough Maggie dyno sheets to be convinced that they're worthless in anything past 3k. As I said before, the twin screws I've had experience with build great power from 1600-6k. In fact, every Maggie dyno sheet I've seen shows them continuing to build power until 5800-6000 rpm. I'd rather have the extra grunt and feather 1st gear, as THAT is what is fun for me. I'm def more of a 0-60 person than 60-140.

If you want to build a system that makes gobs of power from 4-5k onward go for it. I just hope you have the venue to use that power to your liking. 90% of people here, including me, rarely get to fully use the power that we already have. Doesn't stop us from wanting more, but at some point we gotta get real with ourselves and ask at what point are we actually going to notice/use more than 500whp.

FRiCK

iTrader: (7)

I don't want a twin screw because i don't need 708wtq @ 2k rpms's lol

I like the curve of a centrifugal much better. Like an enhanced N/A curve really...

My car hooks now. 1st gear 4k punch, it slips for just a second and chirps off 2nd and 3rd. And my tires aren't even worth mentioning. Nexen 3000's?? Stock size? Lol Pfffft....

I've got the 07' diff, all poly out back, anti hop axle and a KARS lll kit in the garage. All I'm asking for is a 1.9 60' on some nitto nt05r's...

Next is axel's, I know.

PREDATOR-Z

Yes you an use the 226/230 as cam for Maggie setup.

LS1iFiEd

iTrader: (4)

I'm with everyone else on this matter. 99% of the V1's with 500+ Cant utilize their Power. IMHO the Maggie kits are Cool but dont really yield any crazy track results to justify the $5k-$7k Price tag. Most everyones issues with these cars are the launch, they cant be launched very hard, thus making the 500 rwhp seem "Weak" in comparison to a Cam Only car that makes 100 rwhp less, running around the same times. It would be dif. if our rears were like Fbodies, that didnt break real easy and if they did its only a couple hundred dollars to throw it back together. If this were the case I'm sure we would all love to aim for the sky and throw Gobbs of power at our cars, knowing if it broke, it wouldnt make you broke LoL!!

If I were in your shoes I would look into a Set of Nice Heads,Better Intake Manifold, Maybe even deck the Heads for a little bump in Compression, Plus the small odds and ends Bolt ons you may not have yet. These things would probably net you another 30- 40 rwhp. This would be a more usable power source and would save you a few thousand dollars. If you got real crazy and just had to have a 500+ car, throw a 100 shot at it!! Again saving you money vs a Maggie and making it more usable, as you could only grab the kit while you have traction.

Lastly I think you should run the car the way it sits and see where you are at track wise, to see if you are even ready, can handle, and manage another 100+ hp. This is the true test of these cars, for some reason they tend to range a ton!! Ive seen 500+ Maggie cars run 12's and Ive seen Bolt on cars run 12's, 100-150 hp dif but run the same thing!!! Because offfff........ Traction!!!! or maybe they suck at driving, LoL!! Your car the way it sits, SHOULD run Low 12's @ 114-116 depending on Weather and the DA, If it doesnt then you NEED to start there with Figuring out How to Launch,Hook, and Get it down the track successfully, before adding more power. Good Luck!!

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

I am also a centrifugal fan also, makes for if possible, a more controllable high hp car.

siggyfreud

iTrader: (1)

Well go with what makes you happy . I'd rather have the power and control it with my foot, than not have it at those RPM's. I don't plan on being afraid of my rear end forever.

FRiCK

iTrader: (7)

I know you weren't instigating anything. But, I can drive. Last car was a built 01' cobra with a D1SC on 16lbs. Before that it was 4.30's and a 150 shot. I know what fast is and isn't. Not saying that my previous cars were "fast" but deff no slouches by any means, and took some skill to keep them straight.

I could care less about track times. That's not what this car is good at. 2nd week I had it I ran a 13.1 @ 111 with a 2.0 60', stock, on some Avon??? tires. Yes I've been through 2 rears. I drive aggressively, sorry for using the car for the intention it was built. Or atleast why I think it was built, I hope GM didn't think this was gonna be some novelty item?? Lol I wanted a fast 4dr LSX based vehicle. Here it is!

Weather permitting, I'll be installing my Gforce axle this evening and go to the track tomorrow night. I have no reason to believe I can't get it into low 12's @ 115ish. I want more. Call me crazy. Someone is missing out on $$$ by not making a centrifugal kit for these cars.

Maybe a tad bigger cam and some nice TEA/AI heads is my answer? maybe that's the sweet spot? Maybe itll get me that feeling I'm after and still leave the option of traction on the table with reasonable tires sizes that fit on this car.... I just don't want to be disappointed when I hit the pedal and row through the gears and feel safe enough to take a sip of my drink that's in the cup holder next to me, set it down and click off 4th lol


Are we all car guys here or not?? Lol

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

You mean the torque plain? ;-)

Same strategy here...

LS2duc

iTrader: (1)

I spent quite a bit of time (months) looking at what was available. the MP112 is the only "official" Magnuson bolt on product for CTS-V LS6/LS2 engines. You can make a Harrop 119 work, but not without some surgery to the firewall and cowl areas. The Australian version is the easier one to work with, but you will pay about 8Gs due to having to import it into the country. I think I was quoted $14 thousand for a "nice" 119 conversion, using only top quality parts, like silicone instead of plactic, etc. I've seen pics of the Edelbrock E charger fit onto a CTS-V, Gen I I believe. Think those are on the Cadillacownersforum.com. I finally went with the 112 Maggie and added a 10% overdrive harmonic balancer. Couple more pounds of boost for $500 seemed reasonable in this very unrealistically priced environment. It really all comes down to what are you looking for and how much are you willing to spend to get there? I believe 500/500 is just a little over the top for a daily driver, and that's right where I want to be! There's this really young kid in town with a brand new Camaro SS........

jasonk

iTrader: (29)

not my best picture, but here is my last dyno shot, shows the torque curve, or as better explained the plain

yooperLS6

Lingenfelter has a dyno graph on the Cadillac forum section of their website. I can't remember if it was the LS6 or LS2, but it had a TVS1900 on it and the numbers looked pretty good, unfortunately the cars performance didn't live up to the numbers.

I drove a soltice with a 630hp LS7 motor running thru OEM rear diff and it was a blast, The first 300hp made it scary and the rest of the power was
just for show.

Same guy has a 71 Chevelle with LSX454 with a 2300 ZR1 blower on top.
Basically the same results, just larger portions and a blast to drive.

I would like that twin screw blower in my pickup towing a 8000 rpm LS6 V to the road course. I would also like to see 1.5g at Road America..

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

That is the dyno from my head/cam maggie LS6 with an 8" overdrive crank pulley and full 8 rib belt, and Kooks 1-7/8 catted headers.

You can see that the maggie ran out of steam at around 5700rpm's, HP plateaued and TQ was dropping fast, even the boost psi had been dropping since 4500rpm's.

IMHO, It's not that maggie cars can't launch thats kills their 1/4 mile times, I have a handfull of sub 2.0 60' times, the car just didn't have any top end. It would rip out of the hole but once you hit 5500 rpm's you can noticeably feel the car just stop pulling. Add in heat soak and your 1/4 mile times are dismal.

Maggies are amazing on the street, they have stock drivability with a mountain of TQ for stoplight to stoplight fun. But at the track they show their bad side.

OriGinaL Condo

Damn, I really thought the 112 was going to be the option for me. I don't want a blower that falls on it's face on the top end, though. I'm glad I didn't jump the gun too quick

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

So you're judging how a car drives by it's dyno graph and a car holding 400 ft lbs. to redline is is considered falling on it's face?

Tough room.

Remedy to me seems to be to change the gearing to keep the motor in it's peak torque more frequently... I'm trying 3.90's...

Results to come.

FRiCK

iTrader: (7)

From the above boost graph, the blower can't keep up with the motor past 5k. I go to 6.8k.... So the more mods that are done, it will even more so compound the issue. Now take into consideration heat soak, which will be easy to do so, considering how fast the little guy is spinning...

My conclusion. The 112 head unit is suffice for anyone with a stock car with maybe a cat back, looking for a little more power. Nothing else.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

Twin screw FTW.

siggyfreud

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you're sold on something else then. 500/500 is plenty for a lot of people, and I wouldn't ever put the stock car/cat-back crowd in that group. 500whp is a significant amount of power. If you're comfortable enough with it, great. Frankly, if you're that comfy with it, you should be looking for a custom solution anyways, as nothing in the general aftermarket is likely to satisfy what you want out of your car. To that end, it's doubtful you'll be able to get the V1 CTS-V to a level to satisfy you .

jasonk

iTrader: (29)

Agreed, what you are looming for can't be found in a Maggie, as I was trying to say before, it sounds like you have already written it off the table. What you are looking for is going to be a custom job all the way

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Yup... good for 180/180 more here... just a 65% power improvement. I'm into the motor for $5K which murdered the rear... so add another $5K... I'm at 31K plus some minor add ins...

A bit better than a $60K 2009 V... I consider it a bargain at this point.

The only other car in the same class I can think of off hand that can run like this for this price range is an Audi RS6.

FRiCK

iTrader: (7)

You're right. The 112 head unit is the ****, it will leave you plenty of room to grow, it's worth the $6k and far superior to any centrifugal setup...

I'm sorry? Did you just compare your V1 to a V2?? Lol Tooootally different caliber of vehicle. If your looking at it from that perspective, you should have dropped your $31k on a $50k (not $60k??) 09 and had the real thing and not be in denial about it....

I'm gonna bow out of this one.


On a side note. Why are you afraid of 4" bore motors? Lol in denial about that as well?? Lol

dammit I love cars.... Lmao!