What clutch should I get?
#24
+1
Would not run a spec again. McLeods can be rebuilt, so when it does start to slip (never ran one to end of life) you don't have to buy another complete clutch. Their turn around time was very good as well. Stiffer pedal though.
As far as stock clutches like ls9 and ls7 I just don't have any experience running stock parts in higher hp applications.
Have run a RAM clutch before with no problems, but I do not buy their products any longer due to master cylinder failure and warranty problems. (bought their adjustable MC and it failed quickly and they wouldn't replace)
Would not run a spec again. McLeods can be rebuilt, so when it does start to slip (never ran one to end of life) you don't have to buy another complete clutch. Their turn around time was very good as well. Stiffer pedal though.
As far as stock clutches like ls9 and ls7 I just don't have any experience running stock parts in higher hp applications.
Have run a RAM clutch before with no problems, but I do not buy their products any longer due to master cylinder failure and warranty problems. (bought their adjustable MC and it failed quickly and they wouldn't replace)
#25
+1
Would not run a spec again. McLeods can be rebuilt, so when it does start to slip (never ran one to end of life) you don't have to buy another complete clutch. Their turn around time was very good as well. Stiffer pedal though.
As far as stock clutches like ls9 and ls7 I just don't have any experience running stock parts in higher hp applications.
Have run a RAM clutch before with no problems, but I do not buy their products any longer due to master cylinder failure and warranty problems. (bought their adjustable MC and it failed quickly and they wouldn't replace)
Would not run a spec again. McLeods can be rebuilt, so when it does start to slip (never ran one to end of life) you don't have to buy another complete clutch. Their turn around time was very good as well. Stiffer pedal though.
As far as stock clutches like ls9 and ls7 I just don't have any experience running stock parts in higher hp applications.
Have run a RAM clutch before with no problems, but I do not buy their products any longer due to master cylinder failure and warranty problems. (bought their adjustable MC and it failed quickly and they wouldn't replace)
#26
Not me! I have a Monster stage 3 and I would avoid it like the plague. I can't wait to pull it out of there. It chatters so bad I'm embarrassed to have people ride with me.
#27
#28
Should be able to. Pedal effort might change a little. Depends on the clutch you go with also.
I've always used stock slaves with clutches, but upgraded the master cylinder to adjustable at the very least but ideally with a slightly larger bore to push more fluid. I'm putting a McLeod twin in my V at the end of the month and am hoping the stock hydraulic system will work for the time being.
The McLeod in my C5 was stiff but longevity and reliability at higher than stock (a lot higher) power levels was my priority. Also, it wasn't *that* stiff. Just lets you know you're not in a honda civic.
I saw that you're having problems with the McLeod Slave which is a bummer because I had considered getting one.
I've always used stock slaves with clutches, but upgraded the master cylinder to adjustable at the very least but ideally with a slightly larger bore to push more fluid. I'm putting a McLeod twin in my V at the end of the month and am hoping the stock hydraulic system will work for the time being.
The McLeod in my C5 was stiff but longevity and reliability at higher than stock (a lot higher) power levels was my priority. Also, it wasn't *that* stiff. Just lets you know you're not in a honda civic.
I saw that you're having problems with the McLeod Slave which is a bummer because I had considered getting one.
#30
Should be able to. Pedal effort might change a little. Depends on the clutch you go with also.
I've always used stock slaves with clutches, but upgraded the master cylinder to adjustable at the very least but ideally with a slightly larger bore to push more fluid. I'm putting a McLeod twin in my V at the end of the month and am hoping the stock hydraulic system will work for the time being.
The McLeod in my C5 was stiff but longevity and reliability at higher than stock (a lot higher) power levels was my priority. Also, it wasn't *that* stiff. Just lets you know you're not in a honda civic.
I saw that you're having problems with the McLeod Slave which is a bummer because I had considered getting one.
I've always used stock slaves with clutches, but upgraded the master cylinder to adjustable at the very least but ideally with a slightly larger bore to push more fluid. I'm putting a McLeod twin in my V at the end of the month and am hoping the stock hydraulic system will work for the time being.
The McLeod in my C5 was stiff but longevity and reliability at higher than stock (a lot higher) power levels was my priority. Also, it wasn't *that* stiff. Just lets you know you're not in a honda civic.
I saw that you're having problems with the McLeod Slave which is a bummer because I had considered getting one.
#33
I was referring to the adjustable master cylinder.
I'm going to try to retrofit a C5 Mcleod Master Cylinder into the V.
If I didn't know I had a mcLeod in the car, then took it apart and discovered that's what in there, I'd be pretty damn happy.
I'm going to try to retrofit a C5 Mcleod Master Cylinder into the V.
If I didn't know I had a mcLeod in the car, then took it apart and discovered that's what in there, I'd be pretty damn happy.
#34
I e-mailed Monster and they said I can change to a stage 2 and re-use my pressure plate and flywheel. I'm relieved! I may try to do this over Christmas. I just need to figure out how to get the damn thing high enough in the air to pull the tranny...
#36
I'm runing a Monster Stage 2 in mine and it seems to work great! I'm only making like 430-450 to the wheels though, I'll no my exact numbers friday morning when I get it tuned in Hennesey, Oklahoma by Dewayne.
#38
Part of my chatter problem was a catch 22 involving the header mounting nuts (ARP 12 points) being rattled loose.
The results were: lost hardware, blown out (in sections) header gaskets, lean codes, and I had to replace the ignition wires which were rattled apart and intermittent (two).
PLUS, it amplified the chatter!
WHAT FUN!
I solved this by replacing the 12 points with high temp locking nuts that are 12 mm giving more surface area contact.
Last edited by heavymetals; 12-14-2011 at 06:28 PM.
#39
I double checked the front two easy to reach ones tonight, but they are good and snug. I ordered my Stage 2 today, hope to have it in before the new year!
Maybe one day I will stop moding this car and start driving it!
Maybe one day I will stop moding this car and start driving it!