Does anyone have pics and instructions of/for the mightymouse spacer kit??
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None of the washers or bushings with my kit, fit over the shock shaft. Am I missing something here?
They wont even fit over the threaded end to the shaft.
Ok, I got it. That joker was TIGHT. Everything is a-ok.. Got a little creek in the front that was not there before I did the rear. Going to tinker and see if I can't figure it out.
They wont even fit over the threaded end to the shaft.
Ok, I got it. That joker was TIGHT. Everything is a-ok.. Got a little creek in the front that was not there before I did the rear. Going to tinker and see if I can't figure it out.
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I'm in the garage installing the MM kit... how do you get the bump stop out of the dust sleeve? I cant get my hand in there...wife can, but she can pull it out.
Nevermind.... I just cut the boot off. One side done...
Nevermind.... I just cut the boot off. One side done...
Last edited by JDB; 01-12-2013 at 12:37 PM. Reason: wanting to keep stock parts
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Hammer. Or screwdriver jammed through the top hold and *then* hammer.
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Ok, after installing the MM spacer kit yesterday morning, I drove the car around last night (over to DaveSRX's place to help him install his eBay fogs) and the rear is barely lower than before I started. I don't understand how you guys with Ground Control have slammed your cars because I have the GC perch at the lowest setting and it's STILL a tight 2 finger gap at around 26.5" (ground to fender through the axle/hub/center cap) -- which is fine, I guess, but it doesn't explain why on the lowest perch setting it's not as low as others that I've seen ...which is not my goal...I want it sitting it at performance height for better handling on the track and street clearance not a ghetto slammed height, but I just don't understand WHY it won't GO any lower. I swear I have the spring and perch installed correctly... or maybe I don't... but it follows the pic GC shows.
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You don't understand how springs and shocks work together.
If you went with one of the default GC configurations, you have 450 or 500 in-lb 10" rear springs installed, which means that they compress Corner Weight lbs / 500 in-lbs = roughly 1.85-2.00" --> total 8.00-8.15" compressed height for a 3850 lb CTS-V with a 200 lb driver and 54/46 distribution.
Bottom line is that you need 8" springs because your 10" springs are holding the back end of your car up. And no, you can't buy 9" springs. They don't exist. Welcome to my world.
If you went with one of the default GC configurations, you have 450 or 500 in-lb 10" rear springs installed, which means that they compress Corner Weight lbs / 500 in-lbs = roughly 1.85-2.00" --> total 8.00-8.15" compressed height for a 3850 lb CTS-V with a 200 lb driver and 54/46 distribution.
Bottom line is that you need 8" springs because your 10" springs are holding the back end of your car up. And no, you can't buy 9" springs. They don't exist. Welcome to my world.
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You don't understand how springs and shocks work together.
If you went with one of the default GC configurations, you have 450 or 500 in-lb 10" rear springs installed, which means that they compress Corner Weight lbs / 500 in-lbs = roughly 1.85-2.00" --> total 8.00-8.15" compressed height for a 3850 lb CTS-V with a 200 lb driver and 54/46 distribution.
Bottom line is that you need 8" springs because your 10" springs are holding the back end of your car up. And no, you can't buy 9" springs. They don't exist. Welcome to my world.
If you went with one of the default GC configurations, you have 450 or 500 in-lb 10" rear springs installed, which means that they compress Corner Weight lbs / 500 in-lbs = roughly 1.85-2.00" --> total 8.00-8.15" compressed height for a 3850 lb CTS-V with a 200 lb driver and 54/46 distribution.
Bottom line is that you need 8" springs because your 10" springs are holding the back end of your car up. And no, you can't buy 9" springs. They don't exist. Welcome to my world.
Do you have sigs off? Springs are 550/650.
Also, why not go to an 8"? There's more than 2" of threads to change on the perch.
Last edited by JDB; 01-13-2013 at 02:53 PM. Reason: added spring rates for clarification
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JDB,
first, the mm kit brings the current mounting point of your setup about 1" further inboard than the current point in the wheel well. That itself is going to lower the car. Don't read too much into all this optimum operating range stuff. yes, it's true but it's not as dramatic as people are stating and it's not like now the car is going to ride like stock...if you want stock, put the stock stuff back on. It looks like crap but handles great and for pure enjoyment (on the street) I would actually prefer it to my lowered/stiff/etc setup...
Otherwise I think the 650 lb is what's holding up the rear. You're going to have to drop the rate to go lower.
once I changed to mm spacers, even with a higher rated spring I could achieve the previous lower ride height using gc/spacer and a lower rated spring because of the different mount point. All that physics stuff plays into it, but we're not talking 1.5 to 2 inches of operating range...maybe 1/2 to 1 inch TOPS. I've had several combinations on my car with fe4/fg2/qa1/etc, and I'm over the top ocd about measuring before/during/after drive ride heights. I carry a tape measure in my car. People have seen me at work measuring when I get out of the car and think I'm rain man or something lol...
I am right at 26.5 in the rear using mm spacer, fg2, and 600 lb spring. With the 650 I couldn't hit 26.5.
another call-out is front height. what is yours at the moment? Even with the 600 lb rear spring, If I don't have the nose up enough, I can't get to 26.5 (I have 500 in front but FG2). It might also be those qa1s not jiving with the fg2 rears.
I was at 26.75ish in the rear and raised the front up from 26.25 to 26.5, and the rear then dropped to 26.5
you're front measurements always affect the rear and vice versa. I recommend adjusting the sleeve 1/2 the intended drop or raise amount... early on I used to raise the front say "1/4 in" and to my surprise I was 1/2" or more higher when I set the car down...because the rear had dropped.
first, the mm kit brings the current mounting point of your setup about 1" further inboard than the current point in the wheel well. That itself is going to lower the car. Don't read too much into all this optimum operating range stuff. yes, it's true but it's not as dramatic as people are stating and it's not like now the car is going to ride like stock...if you want stock, put the stock stuff back on. It looks like crap but handles great and for pure enjoyment (on the street) I would actually prefer it to my lowered/stiff/etc setup...
Otherwise I think the 650 lb is what's holding up the rear. You're going to have to drop the rate to go lower.
once I changed to mm spacers, even with a higher rated spring I could achieve the previous lower ride height using gc/spacer and a lower rated spring because of the different mount point. All that physics stuff plays into it, but we're not talking 1.5 to 2 inches of operating range...maybe 1/2 to 1 inch TOPS. I've had several combinations on my car with fe4/fg2/qa1/etc, and I'm over the top ocd about measuring before/during/after drive ride heights. I carry a tape measure in my car. People have seen me at work measuring when I get out of the car and think I'm rain man or something lol...
I am right at 26.5 in the rear using mm spacer, fg2, and 600 lb spring. With the 650 I couldn't hit 26.5.
another call-out is front height. what is yours at the moment? Even with the 600 lb rear spring, If I don't have the nose up enough, I can't get to 26.5 (I have 500 in front but FG2). It might also be those qa1s not jiving with the fg2 rears.
I was at 26.75ish in the rear and raised the front up from 26.25 to 26.5, and the rear then dropped to 26.5
you're front measurements always affect the rear and vice versa. I recommend adjusting the sleeve 1/2 the intended drop or raise amount... early on I used to raise the front say "1/4 in" and to my surprise I was 1/2" or more higher when I set the car down...because the rear had dropped.