joejbal

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garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Is this sort of failure common on a ls engine? Would this be case of over rev?

Derek98z

iTrader: (55)

low oil pressure is a common culprit or a wrist pin maybe gave out. It is possible too that a connecting rod bolt broke. I would think you would get a low oil light though but you were also not beating on the car. Should tear it down and take a look.
If there is any oil remaining, see if there is coolant in it. Maybe you had a crack in the block somewhere that leaked in to the oil. then the oil lost its lubricating abilities.

DMM

Actually, this is not an isolated indecent ...when I got my 44k mile 04 V two years ago the motor had 3k miles on it after the #7 rod made a hasty exit through the block.

When I was researching the car before I purchased it, I spoke to the service director of the dealer where the motor was replaced and he stated the car was always very well taken care of and hinted that one of the techs had owned it previously.

I believe this is either a rod bolt or post ignition issue, I remember there were a few canned tunes years back (on LT-1 stroker motors) that for some reason had obscene amounts of timing retard under coast and very light throttle that would shatter H-beam rods like they were glass

Either way, i would have you tune looked at after the swap.

joejbal

Detonation makes sense,I will check out the tune, I never beat on the car so that is one possibility. I'm also wondering if i got water in the engine. I went through a flooded intersection at the onramp to the highway. I might bring it back to my house and start pulling it apart because the shop I usually work with cant get to it for two weeks.

joejbal

Does any one know if the ls6 long block, 19210918, is available anywhere. They are discontinued, but must be available somewhere.

DMM

Detonation is pre-ignition, the mixture ignites as more than one pocket of combustion and propagate towards each other (for numerous reasons), when the flame fronts collide there is an incredible amount of cylinder pressure that causes piston damage and you hear the audible metallic knock.

Post ignition is when combustion occurs after TDC, when the piston/rod is already moving towards BDC. The result is that all of the cylinder pressures are concentrated on the wrist pin and rod instead of providing crankshaft rotation. The main indicators of post ignition are bent/broken wrist pins and rods with the big end of the rod still attached to the crank in good condition.

Unfortunately, this is also exactly what you will see if you are pumping water through the cylinder so it is really best to check the tune. If you did hydro-lock the motor, it would be an immediate thing...not a few miles down the road.

Edit: Just saw your last post, any GM dealer parts counter can tell you if there are any other dealers that have a particular part number in stock through Dealer World. I would go in person and ask though, explain your situation as this will take a while to chug through the system...they likely will not do this for you over the phone.

nitram1203

They have one on E-bay right now for $4700. Just search for the part #

joejbal

$4700 is way over priced, These were under 3k last year. (of course i didnt need one then.)

egypt123

iTrader: (1)

Have you called ECS? They probably have a block and the rest of the parts you need. I assume you can salvage some of your current engine and accessories. I doubt you really need a full pull-out engine and you might get out of it fairly cheap, relatively speaking of course.

joejbal

I am going to call on monday. I checked out their site, and saw a black v. I wonder if it's the same car.