Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Detailed pics of pacesetter headers...

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Old 09-28-2011, 04:33 PM
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That's the same thing as just disabling the rear o2's. By computer u will pass. By smog... U will still fail
Old 09-28-2011, 05:59 PM
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kl2onik
Marc...Sadly in PA they are now doing the **** that hooks to your muffler and reads for codes not just a visual. I just bought a tuner today...so r you saying that I should be able to clear the emissions by tuning it prior to the actual inspection and the codes wont show up during the emission inspection or you just meant I can clear the o2 codes on my car cause the cats will be gone while I'm driving it around?
As NeverSatisfied mentioned, you WILL fail because they use a sniffer stuck up the tailpipe. It reads actual emissions, so even though you may disable the CEL via a tune, they'll still get ya because your exhaust smells funny

Looks to me like you'll have to find a way to get some "mini cats" installed. This is something I'm considering. You can find them all over fleabay and Summit. I don't know exactly what input diameter size we need but they're relatively small, fit inline behind the headers. The exhaust shop will have to install 2 O2 bungs (receiver holes for the sensors) on each side (1 in front and 1 behind the cat). Hope this helps somewhat.... I'm originally from PA but I don't believe they did the sniffers back then.

-Marc
Old 10-02-2011, 09:01 PM
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I sure hope someone comes up with a Cat cure or it's kooks for me.
Old 10-03-2011, 05:58 AM
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While I realize this is a thread about Pacesetter headers, the cats are part of the equation. Some folks have to have them, others don't. I'm unsure if I'm permitted to place a link here, but I am thinking of getting cats similar to these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59926/

I don't know if they're the correct inlet/outlet size, but for the sake of example this is what should work. Very low profile (4" diameter/11" long) should weld right inline behind the headers. All you'd need is to have your local exhaust shop weld in O2 bungs before & after the cats and you're good to go. Assuming your tuner tunes out the O2 sensors, the bungs/sensors/wiring all all just for show at inspection time. But if your state uses a sniffer, I would think they'd do the job as well.

-Marc
Old 10-03-2011, 06:59 PM
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I have had P/S on other vehicles in the past and had VERY good luck. The quality of the construction can't get a bunch better but for 1K+ I would expect it to. The 1 7/8 primaries actually reduce bottom end just like a 3 " exhaust would. Unless you are running very high RPM all the time with a BUNCH of Cyl. head & Cam work the 1 3/4 are the way to go.
Can't beat these for the $. I do have a question for the guys already equipped with headers. Does the underhood heat REALLY have any dire effects other than worrying about the battery? With movement would come decent underhood airflow. I just hate the looks of the wraps and it is murder on the tubes.
Old 10-03-2011, 07:46 PM
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The ceramic coating is supposed to reduce the underhood heat, but that brings up a question, since I may actually consider going this route...Is the "armor coating" any good, or should I plan to send them off somewhere? I know if I want a really good coating, I'd use somebody like swaintech, but if the optional coating is adequate on these?

Suppose if I were smart, I'd drop ship the raw headers to swaintech (let's say) to save some shipping back and forth, but is there anything you see that should be cleaned up prior to coating, if you were to do such a thing?
Old 10-03-2011, 08:16 PM
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They SHOULD media blast before coating.....
Old 10-05-2011, 10:16 AM
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So do these hook straight up to a stock exhaust no problems? What else do I need to buy when I get these? Trying to see how much everything will cost so I can pitch this to the wife. lol
Old 10-05-2011, 01:22 PM
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You will need to get the adapters that are generally listed on the page as a "recommended" to buy.
Old 10-05-2011, 02:37 PM
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I'm running 1-3/4 kooks and I didn't wrap em. Didn't feel the need to cover up such nice looking headers (since kooks are so pretty lol) not to mention the wrap doesn't do the metal any favors as mentioned. I just made sure I zip tied everything away from the exhaust and made sure the clearance looked good on both sides when finished. No problems here!
Old 10-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dr.duct_mossburg
You will need to get the adapters that are generally listed on the page as a "recommended" to buy.
Ok, thanks, Not too familiar with this, but will I be able to use my stock cats?
Old 10-05-2011, 05:21 PM
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No they wont fit....
Old 10-06-2011, 04:34 AM
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When I had to put new cats on my mustang a few years ago, I bought a pair of "spun" cats with stainless steel cores to swap for the SIX OEM cats that had died on me (Yes, there were 3 small cats per pipe on my 97 mustang... LOL. These two cats were only about 4" in diameter and about 10" total length and they brought the car from epic sniffer test failures to passing with flying colours. To top it off, they were only about $70 each at performancepeddler dot com. Have a look for those... Might suit our applications too. I'd be interested to find out because I'd love to get a set of these OBX or PC headers on my V, but I have to have cats and I have to pass the sniffer every other year.

What I'm referring to:
http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic...niversal=59956

And if you go to performance peddler you'll see the "price" is $90 or so. There comes a point where you put the item in your cart and the site prompts you to provide your email address so that they can actually get back to you with a better price. I just checked my invoice and in Dec. 2010 I got 2 of em for $145 shipped. Just FYI. Hope I can help someone save some cash.
Old 10-06-2011, 05:30 AM
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as a professional welder i would say they are ugly weldes... i would still buy them because they are cheap but why not get someone with some experience welding u something that everyone is going to see
Old 08-21-2012, 07:43 PM
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Reviving one of my older threads. I'd given up on the idea of headers, but my interest is peaked again.
My main concern now is cats and where they'd have room to be installed. The "spun" cats that I linked to above are obviously the way to go in terms of minimal space required. I don't know how far back these (or OBX, etc.) headers end though. Do they end at approximately where the OEM cat pipes/mid pipes connect? are they any different (longer/shorter) than OBX or other brands?
Old 08-21-2012, 07:44 PM
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Oops... Meant to post this in one of MY old threads. Guess here is just as well though. Sorry OP.
Old 08-21-2012, 08:45 PM
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With OBX or kooks you'll have to take off a good bit of your cat-back portion for the catted or resonated connectors.
This is about how much I took off of mine--took a little bit of trimming no more than an inch after this portion for a better fit:
Old 08-21-2012, 08:52 PM
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Do you happen to have an under-car shot of everything installed (if you have cats)?
I've read ALL the Pacesetter & OBX header threads, so I'm aware of all the basic fitment differences, etc. One (of the many) thing(s) I'm not clear on is where and how cats can be fit in if you don't get a catted mid-pipe. I guess it would have to be a lot of fabbing. I just don't know if I trust the cats that come with the OBX headers. And obviously PS doesn't even have a cat option.
Old 08-21-2012, 09:01 PM
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I do have cats, but don't have an underside pic. I did it in the garage on jack stands.

With headers there's really not a way to get around cutting into the cat-back if you want cats. The collectors come together right where the stock setup mates with the cat-back. They're designed like that so they'll bolt up to a stock exhaust in a catless setup.


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