Cts V dropped a Valve!!!
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I forgot, I also have a bag full of valves too. I bent a valve and had all of them replaced because I got such a good deal on a set of take outs. If you want the piston, I'll through in a couple valves too.
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Not all 243's had yellow springs. My car didn't have yellow springs as did many other LS6 guys in here. There was a discussion just a month ago about the yellow spring issue and some car not having them. It's normal.
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The lighter valves don't really do much unless you are road racing and hanging in the 4500-6000 RPM range.
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Thanks for all the info! So is it going to be possible to get the oil pan off, disconnect the rod, hone the cylinder, and put in the replacement piston and rod, without pulling the engine? What's the worst that could happen?
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Would be better to pull it. I've always pulled mine so I can't really offer any advise other than the cradle is in the way from pulling the pan. Engine out or cradle out basically.
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Well I don't have a lift, just a hoist. Any advice on bringing it out the top? Guess this would be a good time to pull the bumper to change that flickering hid I've been putting off.
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looks really familiar man....I had this happen a couple weeks ago....motor is at machine shop now....honestly I would recommend checking your bearings....the bearings on each side of the damaged piston had begun to spin..I'm sure if I just did the head and restarted the car, it would have spun both of those bearings.....here is what mine looked like......but just to be on the safe side, I am having the motor cleaned up, and new bearings installed
![](http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a389/coltonc18/IMAG0079.jpg)
![](http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a389/coltonc18/IMAG0079.jpg)
![](http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a389/coltonc18/IMAG0080.jpg)
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Well that's another issue as well. If you you pull out the top with no trans, the cradle will have to drop a few inches to clear the pan. If you pull it all (trans bolted to the engine) you can pull it without dropping the cradle but you need the car high to get the transmission to drop far enough to pull it all out.
By the way, got the money. Piston and valves will go out in the morning!
By the way, got the money. Piston and valves will go out in the morning!
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I just spun a rod bearing last week also with 80k miles... Buddy said that he will fix and stroke it for me if I pull it and bring it to the shop for $1600 or have the motor rebuilt and dyno'd for just over $3300... I wanna get her stroked but the wife is just wanting to get her rebuilt..
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I just spun a rod bearing last week also with 80k miles... Buddy said that he will fix and stroke it for me if I pull it and bring it to the shop for $1600 or have the motor rebuilt and dyno'd for just over $3300... I wanna get her stroked but the wife is just wanting to get her rebuilt..
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So I guess the next step is pulling the engine. Anybody have a link to a how to? It's gotta come out the top... Unless I figure out to use my kubotas front end loader to lift the body off the cradle. Hmmm.
Any other weak links I should look into while it's apart? Timing chain, clutch, pushrods?
The transmission jumps out of first occasionally under load so may check that out while it's apart. And
Any other weak links I should look into while it's apart? Timing chain, clutch, pushrods?
The transmission jumps out of first occasionally under load so may check that out while it's apart. And
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I think it's a good idea to change the oil pump and timing chain. Might as well look at the trans as well. Like others have said, check the bearings while you are in there. With 80k you should look at how much life is left in the clutch as well. The stock flywheels are notorious for failing.
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Yeah, the early ones were blue striped, followed by yellow striped, followed by all yellow. The yellow striped (the ones you have, the blue striped were from 02 and before) did have a problem with breaking, just as yours did.
The lighter valves don't really do much unless you are road racing and hanging in the 4500-6000 RPM range.
The lighter valves don't really do much unless you are road racing and hanging in the 4500-6000 RPM range.
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I read somewhere the ctsv didn't get he sodium filled valves or yellow springs. So would zo6 243s be considered an upgrade? And I've been looking into the ls1 or 5.3 options, but was hoping to save my motor. The cylinder has a very light scratch that you can't hang a nail on. Maybe an inch long. Maybe I can hone it out?
#39
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I just spun a rod bearing last week also with 80k miles... Buddy said that he will fix and stroke it for me if I pull it and bring it to the shop for $1600 or have the motor rebuilt and dyno'd for just over $3300... I wanna get her stroked but the wife is just wanting to get her rebuilt..