heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Left front went from 6" to 5.25" (rim to lip) with the adjustment about 1/2 way up.

I still have the right to do.

The rears are up in the air but I expect a 0.750" drop @ halfway also.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Take it to someone with the right tools.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

A very good suggestion if one doesn't.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Well, Mr Vette gets the same treatment, even worse.

A 2003 Z06 and just clicked over 9k miles.

I had to buy new tires as the old ones just rotted away!

I said screw that and started swapping cars every six months.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Last strut is in.

Tires didn't show up, but tomorrow is fine with me.

Bleeding the last brake.

Last things to do are mount the coils and wires and then tighten everything up and see if it runs.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

ill cross my fingers for you

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!

I got no brakes (re bleed time).

I got no rear tires (yet).

My phucking neighbor behind me got an earful.

HAHAHA

He is lucky the cats are in.

Rattled his windows.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

congratulations! Go drink a beer

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Boy, was I wrong.

Those measurements work when half the car (rear half) is on jackstands!

I have some major adjusting to do on the fronts.

That 5.25" I had dropped to 2.8"!

At least I have adjustment, but major winding on the C wrench.

The good news is that the new clutch is just what I wanted (so far).

I can sip it from a dead stop and it doesn't chatter.

This is with NO RUBBER DOUGHNUT either.

The solid coupling that comes with the driveshaft gives one pause, but it works as does the driveshaft.

The UMI motor mounts transfer more vibration, BFD.

Not so bad I want to yank them out, but definitely more vibs then the UUC's.

The exhaust is sounding better, but nothing was done except a reseal of all the gaskets.

Bad news is I think the ABS unit gulped some air, so I may have to take it in for a proper bleeding via Tech II.

The brakes work, but the pedal doesn't feel right.

The rear strut bearings haven't had a workout so no comments yet.

I do think that getting rid of the rubber bushings does help dial in the spring preload.

That was it for today.

Tomorrow, adjustments.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Got it adjusted.

Rears are about 4.25-4.5" from rim to fender lip

Fronts are about 4.5-5" from rim to fender lip.

Not at the extremes as far as adjustment, but the first spring on the front is compressed.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Someone over on cadillacforums.com was commenting about having to guess at the ride height settings for the KWs. Mine came with 2 sets of instructions - 1 set for the install, and 1 set that detailed how/where to set the ride height. I measured the ride height before I jacked the car up, figured out how much lower I wanted it to be, set the spring perches per KW's instructions, and it was basically dead nuts where it was supposed to be. I've been through the guessing technique with GC coil-overs on my Subaru, so the specific instructions were definitely nice to have.

Did your KWs not come with that second set of instructions that I linked above?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

The KW's came with instructions.

My mistake was measuring the before and after distance (front) while the rear was supported on jack stands.

DOH!

Took the V for a drive last night.

Clutch is bitchin.

There are a whole lot of new sympathetic vibrations and I am sure the motor mounts attributed to this.

catch2otwo

This thread would be better with more pics!

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

One reason I didn't post a bunch of pics, is that most of the mods I did are well documented on other V sites, including this one.

I might take a few of the driveshaft and couplings.

AF_John

iTrader: (1)

Yes please do

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Obviously not mounted completely.

The alum coupling replaces the doughnut.

This was before the weights were relocated as they hit the shifter.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I like it!

Spent a couple of hours and modified the shifter mount to give more clearance for the driveshaft.

I don't want to ***** that thing up!

Got a chance to put a few more miles on it this morning.

Definitely a stiffer "feel" to it and more responsive to steering wheel input (that could be due to new rear tires ergo the good back tires went on the front).

Drive train noise isn't any better or worse then what it was, although there are a couple of new cabin rattles I have to chase down.

The new driveshaft is ****.

Car sits just a little lower then what it used to (stock), but not as low as it can go, kudos to the KW's.

The BEST part is the new clutch.

Now I can take off from a dead stop, feed in power (I couldn't before without major chatter!) and slip the clutch enough to get a smooth launch.

What a difference!

Junior-1

iTrader: (1)

Heavy: so the fix for the driveshaft was basically having them move the weights to a different location and all is well?
Any issues with heat and exhaust clearance on the shaft?

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

So you were able to adjust both rear perches the same amount and ended up with same ride height on both sides? I say this because mine isn't even close for the rears. I have the passenger side about at max and drivers side nearly at min to get same middle of wheel to frender height. I understand how this is possible with the stock load leveling shocks but with the kw v3 set this seems harder to get right without having equal weight on each corner. After corner balancing I doubt if they will still be equal but seems like a good place to start prior to corner weighting.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Yup, they moved the weights.

I think they do it to all of them now, but don't hold me to it.

I have a B&B with an "X" pipe and no issues.