Another Cam Question
04-02-2012, 01:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another Cam Question Been Reading around for a short time now and wanted ask aspecific cam question that has probably already been answered a thousand times so lets make a thousand and one. I am using my LS6 for daily driving, and am ready to start a few mods. What can I do cam, intake, and tuning wise to get my car to run between 400-440 rwhp without sacrificing drivability. I don't care if it shakes the windows out of my garage almost all miles are highway as I live in Mississippi and we don't do stop and go traffic, but I don't want to sacrifice my mileage 24-26 is what I want to stay close to.
Thanks, Sthbnd
Thanks, Sthbnd
04-02-2012, 01:47 PM
#2
Do you know what your car makes now? If you're like most of the stock LS6 CTS-Vs, you hold be at about 320 RWHP. You're not going to be anywhere close to 440 RWHP with just a cam, and you'll definitely have to sacrifice low-end torque and mileage in order to gain ~50-60 RWHP.
Give Thunder Racing a call. Shane has a LS6 CTS-V. They'll set you straight, cam-wise for $1200-1900. If you want to get into the 440 RWHP range, it's going to set you back about $8000, and that's assuming that you're willing to do 100+ hours of labor. Google is your friend, but in a nutshell, you'll need a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, high-flow cats, a catback exhaust, cam, complete fluid flush (including transmission and differential), and tune.
Give Thunder Racing a call. Shane has a LS6 CTS-V. They'll set you straight, cam-wise for $1200-1900. If you want to get into the 440 RWHP range, it's going to set you back about $8000, and that's assuming that you're willing to do 100+ hours of labor. Google is your friend, but in a nutshell, you'll need a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, high-flow cats, a catback exhaust, cam, complete fluid flush (including transmission and differential), and tune.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 04-02-2012 at 04:19 PM.
04-02-2012, 03:45 PM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"you'll need a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, high-flow cats, a catback exhaust, cam, complete fluid flush (including transmission and differential), and tune." this X2.
If you get these you will be at 400 w a mild cam in the mid 220s dur. and close to the 430s with an extreme cam like the MS4.
Speaking of "Fuzzy" are your numbers w or w/o the cam? I haven't dynoed mine, but I've seen most in the high 360s and 370s w just an intake, headers, exhaust, tune. Granted your clutch is giving you a bare few ponies yet and you'd be at 380 no cam
If you get these you will be at 400 w a mild cam in the mid 220s dur. and close to the 430s with an extreme cam like the MS4.
Speaking of "Fuzzy" are your numbers w or w/o the cam? I haven't dynoed mine, but I've seen most in the high 360s and 370s w just an intake, headers, exhaust, tune. Granted your clutch is giving you a bare few ponies yet and you'd be at 380 no cam
Last edited by kl2onik; 04-02-2012 at 03:51 PM.
04-02-2012, 04:25 PM
#4
The cam and damper aren't in yet. Shane thinks I'll pick up 60 RWHP with the TRuTorq Level 3 blower cam alone. Should be installing later this month.
04-02-2012, 10:29 PM
#6
Eastern Regional Coordinator
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am running a LS2 V and I Have KN intake/KOOKs with Cats/Magnaflow catback/EPS 226-230 cam. And I put down to the wheels... 398/370.
Car is everyday driveable. But if you want to break 400 on one mod. Go juice or go boost. PERIOD
Car is everyday driveable. But if you want to break 400 on one mod. Go juice or go boost. PERIOD
04-02-2012, 10:39 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the quick responses! I am going to call Shane tomorrow and see what he has to say. From what I'm reading "Fuzzy" you're making 380 rwhp with the mods you have listed without the L3 Cam, correct? If so then that's what I'm looking for as far as power and those mods are within my budget as well...I think....or I might just sell the V1 take the budget and put it all on a V2! But it's not worth trading a paid for car for one with payments. So modding it is!
Trending Topics
04-03-2012, 05:21 AM
#8
Thanks for the quick responses! I am going to call Shane tomorrow and see what he has to say. From what I'm reading "Fuzzy" you're making 380 rwhp with the mods you have listed without the L3 Cam, correct? If so then that's what I'm looking for as far as power and those mods are within my budget as well...I think....or I might just sell the V1 take the budget and put it all on a V2! But it's not worth trading a paid for car for one with payments. So modding it is!
04-03-2012, 08:38 AM
#9
Eastern Regional Coordinator
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From my research and eventual trial... The lighter clutch and flywheel setup you have freed up a good amount of ponies as well. Dayum oversized dual mass flywheel...
04-03-2012, 09:41 AM
#10
Correct me if I'm wrong!
04-03-2012, 10:00 AM
#11
Eastern Regional Coordinator
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, lighter rotating parts will show up on the dyno (sweep testing) as increased output, and improvements in acceleration at the track. The faster the sweep, the more they show up, and the lower the gear, the more difference is seen. This includes flywheels, crankshafts, clutch assemblies, wheels, tires, driveshafts and chain/sprockets, etc., with parts at engine speeds being more important than driveline parts.
The problem is that there is not a direct comparison for overall weight loss, and dyno/track gains. The more of the total weight that is lost on the outter 1/2 of the part's diameter, the more effective the weight loss becomes. And there becomes a point where weight loss becomes a point of diminishing return - i.e. once you get to a specific point, more weight loss becomes less effective.
There can also be a point where you can take things too far, and traction can become an issue. This is where traction control can be of great help.
The problem is that there is not a direct comparison for overall weight loss, and dyno/track gains. The more of the total weight that is lost on the outter 1/2 of the part's diameter, the more effective the weight loss becomes. And there becomes a point where weight loss becomes a point of diminishing return - i.e. once you get to a specific point, more weight loss becomes less effective.
There can also be a point where you can take things too far, and traction can become an issue. This is where traction control can be of great help.
04-03-2012, 10:07 AM
#12
Eastern Regional Coordinator
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And a good article I am reading through now actually.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ase/index.html
But the moment of intertia being less should allow more HP to be shown at the wheels.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ase/index.html
But the moment of intertia being less should allow more HP to be shown at the wheels.
04-03-2012, 12:49 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Helendale
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With a lightweigth flywheel, you will pick up a little power at the wheels due to less parasitic loss within the driveline. But you BHP is will be within 1 or 2 hp from before.
From what the guys at SNL/Monster Clutch told me, swapping from the the stocker clutch/flywheel to a level 2 with a 28lbs fly, the average gain was ~8 hp/tq at the wheels. With going to the 18lbs fly wheel netted ~13 hp 7 tq. I went with a 28lbs since they said it will maintain a much easier DD feel, especially if i were to throw H/C in there.
From what the guys at SNL/Monster Clutch told me, swapping from the the stocker clutch/flywheel to a level 2 with a 28lbs fly, the average gain was ~8 hp/tq at the wheels. With going to the 18lbs fly wheel netted ~13 hp 7 tq. I went with a 28lbs since they said it will maintain a much easier DD feel, especially if i were to throw H/C in there.
someone wanna buy it for me?
04-03-2012, 05:32 PM
#17
http://f1racingclutchsystem.com/products/fwlwc.html
They go for $230 including shipping new. I have less than 10k miles on mine. When I install the Fidanza, I'll take pictures if you're still interested.
04-03-2012, 05:48 PM
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just pulled the plug on my cam lunati voodoo 227/233 .584 113. Kit should be here in the next week and hopefully installed shortly))) clutch next, thinking ls7 so it drives stockish
