54inches

iTrader: (4)

NO SHIM NEEDED IF YOU USE LS7 CLUTCH KIT AND LS7 SLAVE.

This.

Again, no.

They are not cheaper.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

If people are pumping, it's air, or bad hydros. The LS7 is perfect for what you want.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Cheaper than who?

MacLEAN

iTrader: (1)

FYI - I had issues getting into first at stops even after I flushed by clutch fluid 3 times. I swapped out the transmission fluid with synchromesh and my first gear issue went away. I assume it was due to new fluid, not necessarily specific the synchromesh. I also have a ’04, mine had 33K on it when I did the flush.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

sdparts.com

I compared everything down to shipping and outlined it in the above thread #1.

SD comes with all of the bolts and the other company does not; it adds about $50 iirc.

Dmax/04V

If you're going to fix the issue do it right and throw an LS7 setup in there and be done with it. No point in bandaiding the oe setup to save a few bucks, just a waste of money. Do it right and be done with it.

ls1forlife1

I am definitely not trying to save a few dimes. the OEM setup is like 615 for the flywheel, 320 for the clutch kit and 325 for the slave. I think i can get a ls7 kit for cheaper than that. I just want to make sure I do not have the same problem with a ls7 kit, because I read a few poeple are still having similar issues with reverse or 1st. thankfully i only have this issue with first gear and no other gear.


Will the ls7 slave cylinder plug right into my CTSV factory Master cylinder and line?

I saw something where the trans needs to clearanced for a ls7 slave?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

If you were going to pay that much for a stock clutch, you'll be much happier with the LS7 prices. It's a very popular upgrade among all t-56 platforms (F-bodies, GTO, CTS-V, C5 vettes, etc.) so competitive pricing is out there.

Yes. The OEM master cylinder line connects without modification.

The bleed screw is at a slightly different angle coming off of the LS7 slave cylinder and requires about 1.5" of notch in the transmission's soft aluminum bellhousing. A hand saw could take care of it and you're really just enlarging the notch that's already there. Nothing to fear.

Dmax/04V

When people have issues getting in to 1st and Reverse that doesn't normally indicate a clutch problem with the gen 1 v's. More commonly this is attributable to a bad trans mount, and/or bad stock shifter bushings. Been there done that, CS trans mount and CS shifter bushings make a world of difference if stockers are shot.

ls1forlife1

Im not entirely sure what i want to do yet. Part of me just wants to pull the thing apart and just replace the master & slave cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate.

Then part of me likes the idea of a better clutch set up, but i hate the idea of putting non-factory parts in my car, and notching my t56


with all this talk about a dull mass flywheel, i take it my cts-v flywheel and clutch set up is not the same as my z06?

You guys are so helpful, thank you all!

ls1forlife1

Brand new shifter assembly from Cadillac. Trans mount seems almost new.

The weird thing is, if i put it in second first, it will go into first without issue.

Dmax/04V

[QUOTE=with all this talk about a dull mass flywheel, i take it my cts-v flywheel and clutch set up is not the same as my z06?

You guys are so helpful, thank you all![/QUOTE]

It is a different setup, the V flywheel is composed of two semi independent sections that are spring loaded for lateral movement. When the flywheel is in good shape it can help give a smoother ride, the problem is that these things wear out, and when they do the disk facing the transmission will fail to rebound causing a clunking noise at initial engagement, this will also lead to a rougher ride. On top of that you can have vertical play when the rebound mechanism wears out that causes additional annoyances. The fact that the flywheel is composed of two separate chunks of steel means that it is a heavy sob. The flywheel by itself weighs over 40lbs meaning you have a much larger parasitic power loss than if you had a lighter flywheel. The picture is my OE flywheel after 90K and it was gone.

Dmax/04V

synchros?

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

The bleed screw is at a slightly different angle coming off of the LS7 slave cylinder and requires about 1.5" of notch in the transmission's soft aluminum bellhousing. A hand saw could take care of it and you're really just enlarging the notch that's already there. Nothing to fear.[/QUOTE]



The bleed screw for the stock CTS-V slave and the LS7 slave are not different. If you buy a GM LS7 flywheel, slave w throwout, pressure plate and clutch disc, and an LAPD C6 bleeder with the traight fitting, you do not have to notch the transmission or bell housing. I just put mine and did not hack up anything. I did use a piece of 5/16 rubber hose to protect the bleeder due to being close to the bare meatl and could rub it over time.

This picture show a new C6 LS7 slave installed, and it is directly pointed out the hole the original bleeder sticks out of.

ls1forlife1

I am not sure my good man. I am waiting to hear back from the trans builder.

about 5 months ago, i had the reverse ring and synco replaced, along with a new reverse lock out. (car would pop out of reverse, never gave me trouble putting it in, just 50% of the time it would pop out after 5ft of driving in reverse)
at this time i bought the entire shift linkage assembly. Boot, linkage,bushings, trip piece, ****.

Got the car back together, no issues at all, drove excellent. 3 days ago it gave me trouble going into first maybe 2 times. didnt think much of it. well 2 days ago it did it more and more. Now its doing it almost every time i go to take off.

i really just want to sell it, but i can not sell a problem car to someone.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

The first gear issue is common on all T56 transmissions. It's just the nature of the beast.

ls1forlife1

none of my vettes, camaros or ws6 had this issue.

I would keep driving it, but im afraid its going to screw up the actual transmission. sometimes it just physically wont go in. but twice yesterday it kind of popped in and i didnt like that. but it will always go in, if you go into second then first....maybe I will list it on the forum for sale and disclaim this issue.

I would hate to sell it in this condition, especially after i just put 2500 into the transmission and shiftier assembly....

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

I always put it in 2nd to go into 1st gear or reverse. I basically have to and it is common on the V1 as mentioned. I learned to live with it. My F-body...does not do this and shifts perfectly because the shifter stalk links directly into the tailshaft to the selector mechanism. The V has multiple linkage connections and does this remotely. There is a big thread somewhere on trying to firm up every point where slop can be had that I will try when my LS7 clutch goes in, probably this winter.

ls1forlife1

I am really sorry to hear that, I guess I will just live with this problem....

ls1forlife1

I might try bleeding the clutch again and swap the trans fluid to syncromesh. The guy that built the trans said use a mineral based ATF. Is syncromesh ok to use?

I will also check all the mounts and shifter bushings just in case.

Do you lubricate anything? like the shift linkage at the transmission?

Thank you everyone!