Clutch Bleeding issue, but with a GREAT pedal and driveability
04-15-2012, 08:51 PM
#1
Clutch Bleeding issue, but with a GREAT pedal and driveability I know this sounds strange, but I just did the LS7 Clutch, flywheel, remote bleeder for my V.
No real issues, except a few broken exhaust studs.
Typical stuff from what I have heard:
Bolt are hard to get to w/o an extension, the tranny is a bitch to get to release once unbolted, the bellhousing is a little cantankerous to get off and around the big *** dual mass.
Nothing I really did not expect.
Oh but wait, the two pieces of the dual mass had shifted and I could not get a a socket onto the flywheel bolts.
Same solution I used on the broken exhaust bolts; Big *** drill and cobalt bits.
Now none of that is the issue.
So we get her back together, get cleaned up had some lunch and decided to start the bleeding.
Sooooo, we pop the top on the Clutch Master reservoir, I sit next to the car and hand pump the clutch as it is sticking to the floor when it reaches the bottom. I crack the 48" remote bleeder and nothing. This is to be expected.
Well, we repeat this process for awhile and nothing improves. I expect this too.
So, I am impatient, so I go and grab my Motive Product pressurized bleeder.
I add some NEW DOT 3 HD, screw the adapter cap onto the reservoir and pump her up to 10 psi.
Instant pedal, so I start pumping and pumping; crack the bleeder and nothing.
We repeat this process about 15 times and decide to try driving the car.
I must say the new shifter, and all the new bushings REALLY changes the way the car drives, but I think I got the bolt on the pivot a little tight. lol
Anyway, I put her in gear and off we go. No issues, pedal feels strong, it goes into gear and except for the shortness of the clutch grab and the aforementioned tightened bolt, it is a dream to drive.
Now why would I not get any fluid or anything out of the bleeder and still have a great driving car.
WE brought her back and hooked a mityvac up to the bleeder and it did not help either.
Any clues?
My only thought is that there would be trash in the line after the slave and the system is pressurized w/o any air and somewhere down the line IF that trash breaks free, I might loose the clutch pedal and THEN I will have to rebleed it.
What do you guys think?
No real issues, except a few broken exhaust studs.
Typical stuff from what I have heard:
Bolt are hard to get to w/o an extension, the tranny is a bitch to get to release once unbolted, the bellhousing is a little cantankerous to get off and around the big *** dual mass.
Nothing I really did not expect.
Oh but wait, the two pieces of the dual mass had shifted and I could not get a a socket onto the flywheel bolts.
Same solution I used on the broken exhaust bolts; Big *** drill and cobalt bits.
Now none of that is the issue.
So we get her back together, get cleaned up had some lunch and decided to start the bleeding.
Sooooo, we pop the top on the Clutch Master reservoir, I sit next to the car and hand pump the clutch as it is sticking to the floor when it reaches the bottom. I crack the 48" remote bleeder and nothing. This is to be expected.
Well, we repeat this process for awhile and nothing improves. I expect this too.
So, I am impatient, so I go and grab my Motive Product pressurized bleeder.
I add some NEW DOT 3 HD, screw the adapter cap onto the reservoir and pump her up to 10 psi.
Instant pedal, so I start pumping and pumping; crack the bleeder and nothing.
We repeat this process about 15 times and decide to try driving the car.
I must say the new shifter, and all the new bushings REALLY changes the way the car drives, but I think I got the bolt on the pivot a little tight. lol
Anyway, I put her in gear and off we go. No issues, pedal feels strong, it goes into gear and except for the shortness of the clutch grab and the aforementioned tightened bolt, it is a dream to drive.
Now why would I not get any fluid or anything out of the bleeder and still have a great driving car.
WE brought her back and hooked a mityvac up to the bleeder and it did not help either.
Any clues?
My only thought is that there would be trash in the line after the slave and the system is pressurized w/o any air and somewhere down the line IF that trash breaks free, I might loose the clutch pedal and THEN I will have to rebleed it.
What do you guys think?
04-15-2012, 09:26 PM
#2
Instead of pumping then cracking the bleed screw, crack the bleeder as your moving the pedal to the floor and re-tighten once the pedal is on the floor. This method worked much more effectively for me. Also, make sure you remove the rubber piece inside the master cylinder while bleeding. It restricts the intake of fluid from the reservoir.
Also, the shifter will loosen up over time. The first few days of driving will be a little stiff but it'll work its way back to a normal feel.
Also, the shifter will loosen up over time. The first few days of driving will be a little stiff but it'll work its way back to a normal feel.
04-16-2012, 12:05 AM
#4
Instead of pumping then cracking the bleed screw, crack the bleeder as your moving the pedal to the floor and re-tighten once the pedal is on the floor. This method worked much more effectively for me. Also, make sure you remove the rubber piece inside the master cylinder while bleeding. It restricts the intake of fluid from the reservoir.
Also, the shifter will loosen up over time. The first few days of driving will be a little stiff but it'll work its way back to a normal feel.
Also, the shifter will loosen up over time. The first few days of driving will be a little stiff but it'll work its way back to a normal feel.
Do either of you think it is weird that I have a great pedal and it drives awesome, yet nothing ever came out of the bleeder?
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04-16-2012, 10:32 AM
#8
You have blockage in the bleeder or slave cylinder outlet. My guess is either FOD (unlikely) or install error (more likely). Did you try blowing through the bleeder line before installation to verify that it was clear?
Based on what you've said, I bet your entire line is filled with air. If it is FOD blockage and it clears during driving, you'll probably take on enough air in the system to reduce pressure to zero. That'll be a fun day.
Based on what you've said, I bet your entire line is filled with air. If it is FOD blockage and it clears during driving, you'll probably take on enough air in the system to reduce pressure to zero. That'll be a fun day.
04-16-2012, 11:52 AM
#9
THANKS!!!!!!You have blockage in the bleeder or slave cylinder outlet. My guess is either FOD (unlikely) or install error (more likely). Did you try blowing through the bleeder line before installation to verify that it was clear?
Based on what you've said, I bet your entire line is filled with air. If it is FOD blockage and it clears during driving, you'll probably take on enough air in the system to reduce pressure to zero. That'll be a fun day.
Based on what you've said, I bet your entire line is filled with air. If it is FOD blockage and it clears during driving, you'll probably take on enough air in the system to reduce pressure to zero. That'll be a fun day.
I blew threw everything as I had a special fitting made for the bleeder to connect directly from the stock bleeder to an fitting. I blew through that.
Yeah, I agree and I think I mentioned that above:
My only thought is that there would be trash in the line after the slave and the system is pressurized w/o any air and somewhere down the line IF that trash breaks free, I might loose the clutch pedal and THEN I will have to rebleed it.
04-16-2012, 12:33 PM
#11
Those motives pump some serious pressure so unless youve got something so big shoved into the line that its blocking the fluid exit, I can't see that being the case (it could be, I just don't see it) what I'd start by doing is unclipping the quick disconnect from the master to the clutch, pumping it up from the top of the res, and seeing if anything gets forced out, even if its already slowly dripping out.
04-16-2012, 12:47 PM
#12
Those motives pump some serious pressure so unless youve got something so big shoved into the line that its blocking the fluid exit, I can't see that being the case (it could be, I just don't see it) what I'd start by doing is unclipping the quick disconnect from the master to the clutch, pumping it up from the top of the res, and seeing if anything gets forced out, even if its already slowly dripping out.
04-16-2012, 03:43 PM
#14
in theory, if it is clogged...
is there a fitting for the power bleeder that snaps on the bleeder nipple? maybe disconnect the quick connect,force fluid through the back, and hold the + shaped connector down with a flat head and force something out of the front.
is there a fitting for the power bleeder that snaps on the bleeder nipple? maybe disconnect the quick connect,force fluid through the back, and hold the + shaped connector down with a flat head and force something out of the front.
04-16-2012, 05:09 PM
#16
I need the fitting/thread size that goes into the slave cylinder.
WTF, I am so stupid and I cannot believe I did that. How remedial.
Where did you guys get your fitting that goes from the AN-s line to the slave as mine did not come with it?
04-16-2012, 08:59 PM
#20
TECH Fanatic
Only difference, I usually have the clutch pumped 10-12 times and then crack the bleeder as the clutch is slowly depressed...I try my best to make sure the clutch does not bottom before closing the bleeder to ensure a continuous flow. Never had a problem with this.