Econo axle install help
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Econo axle install help
I got the gforce axle set where you swap the axles onto your existing cv joints. I got the axle off the car, but I can't get the outer stub off the axle. The instructions suggest a vice and/or slide hammer. I have neither, and am having some trouble. Tips?
Last edited by aurora40; 05-27-2012 at 02:21 PM. Reason: said inner, but it's the outer that is a pain
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If anyone is looking for a useful tip, I ended up finding this guide:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-writeup.html
It doesn't seem to be stickied on CF, just the one on removing the axle.
I used a similar setup with wood. First I tried putting my feet on the wood to push it off, but I think really you need a shock. The hammer worked like a charm.
I also bought the GM "tool" you insert in the diff, it's just a piece of plastic, and you can get them around $2 per tool online, though in packs of ten. I don't know if it saves the day, but it was easy to find and easy to use, and I didn't worry about the axle seals getting messed up.
The whole process is really pretty easy, and I didn't have to separate the knuckle from the upper control arm. Really that stupid stub was the only hard part, and next time it shouldn't be a problem at all.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-writeup.html
It doesn't seem to be stickied on CF, just the one on removing the axle.
I used a similar setup with wood. First I tried putting my feet on the wood to push it off, but I think really you need a shock. The hammer worked like a charm.
I also bought the GM "tool" you insert in the diff, it's just a piece of plastic, and you can get them around $2 per tool online, though in packs of ten. I don't know if it saves the day, but it was easy to find and easy to use, and I didn't worry about the axle seals getting messed up.
The whole process is really pretty easy, and I didn't have to separate the knuckle from the upper control arm. Really that stupid stub was the only hard part, and next time it shouldn't be a problem at all.
#4
I got mine off with a rubber mallet and 2 hours of wailing on it. I've seen people take a board and cut hole to fit around the axle but not the cv joint and hit that with a hammer. It's a real pain if I had to do it again I would to try to find someone with a press. Putting it back together isnt as bad just be careful with the compression ring on the axle shaft.
#5
If anyone is looking for a useful tip, I ended up finding this guide:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-writeup.html
It doesn't seem to be stickies on CF, just the one on removing the axle.
I used a similar setup with wood. First I tried putting my feet on the wood to push it off, but I think really you need a shock. The hammer worked like a charm.
I also bought the GM "tool" you insert in the diff, it's just a piece of plastic, and you can get them around $2 per tool online, though in packs of ten. I don't know if it saves the day, but it was easy to find and easy to use, and I didn't worry about the axle seals getting messed up.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-writeup.html
It doesn't seem to be stickies on CF, just the one on removing the axle.
I used a similar setup with wood. First I tried putting my feet on the wood to push it off, but I think really you need a shock. The hammer worked like a charm.
I also bought the GM "tool" you insert in the diff, it's just a piece of plastic, and you can get them around $2 per tool online, though in packs of ten. I don't know if it saves the day, but it was easy to find and easy to use, and I didn't worry about the axle seals getting messed up.
I just put in gforce race axles and new seals but ones already leaking very slightly I rather just have piece of mind and install them with the installer.
Thanks
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=J-44394
They are reasonably tough plastic, it should be able to be re-used several times. I don't see why anyone outside of a Caddy tech would need a 10-pack.
Trending Topics
#10
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the second axle done today, it went a lot easier now that I know how to do it. All in all it's really not hard.
They work well but don't cure wheelhop. Honestly I haven't dumped the clutch on the car in a while, so I don't really even know it's an improvement. The car didn't always hop, though I seem to recall it mostly always did.
The first clutch dump at around 2,200 resulted in a nice lurid sliding burnout. The next couple times resulted in some mild hopping and then hooking. Upping the revs to 3,000 resulted in consistent lurid sliding burnouts, so I guess the tires were just hooking once they got hot (the Super Sports were like gum afterwards).
When it did hop it didn't seem violent, but it still isn't pleasant. So I dunno, they help I think, it's hard for me to say as I don't have much "before" experience. I had horrific wheelhop last year at the dragstrip, and that really had me gunshy about standing starts. I guess if nothing else they upped my confidence to dump the clutch now, as long as the revs are up there.
The huge smile on my face though was probably worth the $500 right there. I was laughing for a while at how fun it was to smoke 'em up and slide it around.
Obligatory picture:
They work well but don't cure wheelhop. Honestly I haven't dumped the clutch on the car in a while, so I don't really even know it's an improvement. The car didn't always hop, though I seem to recall it mostly always did.
The first clutch dump at around 2,200 resulted in a nice lurid sliding burnout. The next couple times resulted in some mild hopping and then hooking. Upping the revs to 3,000 resulted in consistent lurid sliding burnouts, so I guess the tires were just hooking once they got hot (the Super Sports were like gum afterwards).
When it did hop it didn't seem violent, but it still isn't pleasant. So I dunno, they help I think, it's hard for me to say as I don't have much "before" experience. I had horrific wheelhop last year at the dragstrip, and that really had me gunshy about standing starts. I guess if nothing else they upped my confidence to dump the clutch now, as long as the revs are up there.
The huge smile on my face though was probably worth the $500 right there. I was laughing for a while at how fun it was to smoke 'em up and slide it around.
Obligatory picture:
#12
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did the single axle first, mostly in case I messed it up and it exploded/etc. I'd only have to fix one. But I went out and did a single burnout in a parking lot near my house. That one went fine, no hop, laid a nice long patch. But I only tried it once.
#13
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My last name is MacLean, I live right down the road in Sterling/Dulles. I'd love to see how these work in person. Hit me up if you ever need a hand with your V or just want to go hit up the blue ridge.
I'm in Leesburg. You in McLean? Or is your name unrelated to location?
I did the single axle first, mostly in case I messed it up and it exploded/etc. I'd only have to fix one. But I went out and did a single burnout in a parking lot near my house. That one went fine, no hop, laid a nice long patch. But I only tried it once.
I did the single axle first, mostly in case I messed it up and it exploded/etc. I'd only have to fix one. But I went out and did a single burnout in a parking lot near my house. That one went fine, no hop, laid a nice long patch. But I only tried it once.
#14
I'm in Leesburg. You in McLean? Or is your name unrelated to location?
I did the single axle first, mostly in case I messed it up and it exploded/etc. I'd only have to fix one. But I went out and did a single burnout in a parking lot near my house. That one went fine, no hop, laid a nice long patch. But I only tried it once.
I did the single axle first, mostly in case I messed it up and it exploded/etc. I'd only have to fix one. But I went out and did a single burnout in a parking lot near my house. That one went fine, no hop, laid a nice long patch. But I only tried it once.
Just thought I'd mention, pm me if your interested about it and I can tell you more.
#16
Different shop, I changed my axles a week ago there. 20$ month 13$ and hour, I think its worth it. You can go whenever and they have tools and stock amsoil. They also have an alignment rack, paint booth and have a setup to wash your car inside. The tech there also seems pretty knowledgeable too and helped me get the trans back in when I changed my clutch. On the weekends it gets pretty busy though. A couple Pontiac g8 folk were there last time 2 of 3 with superchargers.
#17
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it is this place (http://www.sportscarshopinc.com/index.html) I've been there. Great place to find G8s and GXPs with all of Holden Australian V8 series mods on them.