BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

This has convinced me to forego the cam.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Ramen Noodles are in my future as well.

Just sent a check to Tony Mamo for mammofied heads/cam/intake/TB/injectors/etc

DMM

Honestly, cam install is not too hard on our cars. I would spend the $500 on a cam rather than head work, since that money will get you nothing in heads and they are pretty stout with PM valve guides.

Remove the front bumper fascia, drain coolant, remove fans and radiator, condenser will already be unbolted (from rad. removal) it just needs to be angled out of the way, remove belt, waterpump, big 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar to get the crank bolt off and a Harbor Freight puller to get it off , remove timing cover, line up the dots, unbolt/remove cam gear, let chain fall down (its not going anywhere), spin the cam to set the lifters up and install 5/16" wooden dowels so they don't fall (disregard if removing heads), unbolt cam retainer plate, temporarily install 3 waterpump bolts into the cam to help guide it out. Then reverse.

I did it in 3.5 hours with my Maggie, granted, I work pretty fast, but it will probably take you longer to get your heads off than to do a cam swap.

Also, don't mess with the broken bolt...the machine shop can weld to it if you don't **** it up too bad and wrench it right out...takes like 5 mins and they usually charge $25/bolt. If you booger it up, they cannot weld to it.

Some of the other stuff that has been tossed around....
- LS7 lifters...Yes yes yes!! Cost $110 (PN 12499225) and are well worth the money. Besides, OE lifters always seem to go bad after you have opened up the motor for some damn reason.
- Cometic gaskets....hell no. those damn things are like $80/ea +. Here is what I used when I pulled the heads with my Maggie.....GM PN-12589226 - hd gasket $17.57
- Trunion upgrade...not needed unless you have an early LS1 or a high lift cam (by high lift, I mean well over .600" lift). If you stay right around .600" or below you will not have an issue.
- Assembly Lube is not needed unless you are replacing crank, rod, cam bearings. Roller cams and roller rockers do not require this. I usually dunk everything in SAE 30 or 15/40 Diesel oil before assembly and have never had an issue. I know people that don't even do that.
- Springs and valve seals...Yes! Even if you don't do a cam, OE "Yellow" springs are like $55 and can be replaced easily with the valve seals. Would probably take you 1 - 1.5 hours to do it yourself for the first time.

One thing that I would recommend is to replace every TTY bolt with an ARP (head bolts, crank bolt, etc) since they do not add to the cost much over OE when replacing them.

My $0.02.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I would do the trunion upgrade anyway as you have to take them out.

After seeing spit out bearings stuck to a magnetic drain plug, you think about it.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

What exactly is the benefit of LS7 lifters?

Already got my ARP head bolts ordered. Just trying to line up the rest. Was considering just using some Felpro MLS gaskets from Advanced with their online promo.

DMM

- Cheap
- Proven reliable with high lift/duration cams
- Cheap
- More consistent oil metering than older OE
- Cheap

When installing the LS7 lifters, you will need the LS2 style trays...GM PN-12595365 - lifter tray $5.51 (4 are required)

BTW - I think that was $17 for the head gasket set...not each.

etcts-v

Cam is relatively easy install as well as you don't have to pull the motor, just pull radiator and drop condenser as was mentioned above.

Timing cover gasket is only $15:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-Front...#ht_500wt_1180

Asembly lube for the cam $5:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-10...0a3441&vxp=mtr

I got an IWIS timing chain for $50 (depending on your mileage may not be necessary):

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...-timing-chain/

Also got my lifters there $130:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...e-ls7-lifters/

Head Gaskets cost me $40, here is Jegs on E-bay:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/4002810..._lwgsi=y&cbt=y

Harbor Freight of Jaw pullers $19:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...-set-8832.html

Harmonic balancer $58 (probably won't need, but still cheap):


Push rods run about $100, I like Atlantic Speed as they can also sell you a Cam:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-MAGNUM-...651d32&vxp=mtr


You can tell by all the links that I'm a cheap bastard and like to save money wherever possible, hence ordering from 20 different places. But you can really strech your cash that way.

The lube I was referring to earlier is the ARP assembly lube for the bolts, not engine assembly lube. If you bought the head bolt kit it comes with a small package of grease inside.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-100-9908...9c4e7f&vxp=mtr

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

no you don't. the ls6 and ls2 are the same, and if they aren't, the ls7 lifters went right into my trays, and the lifters looked the exact same.

yooperLS6

How many miles are on the heads?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

104k, they'll be freshened up for sure.

yooperLS6

Perfect, have the machine shop drill out and sleeve the broken bolt, hot tank the heads, inspect, refresh and install new oem exhaust valves, and springs.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I know this isn't the most budget-conscious of me, but would lightweight pushrods be a good idea?

Also, when removing the PS head last night I noticed a LOT of carbon buildup on the piston head. What's the best way to clean that off? I tried some carb cleaner (what I had around) and a rag, but that didn't do much.

yooperLS6

The LS6 engine is a pretty good package for a daily driver as it is.

Having said that, they respond quite well to considerable camshaft lift and compression. The down side is all the supporting mods, timing chain, cnc porting, valve train upgrades, piston notching and tune, etc.

Where do you stop, and at what cost?

IMO go for reliability and get all the depreciation out of what you have now.

The best time to buy something is when you don't need it!

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Haha, totally over my head. What?

DMM

Its not for fit, its for durability. Older LS1/6 trays have been known to allow the lifters to turn in their bores, destroying the cam, lifter, etc. Cheap insurance.

yooperLS6

Yes, good call. Forgot about those, very cheap insurance. Had to buy a pack of 5. I can donate the extra tray but shipping would probably be more than buying new.

yooperLS6

My bad, just the pain meds talking. Tore my knee up so I can't do anything else.

I would put the LS6 back together with good oem parts because they work.

If you desire more power, invest in a torque monster.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. Torn knees are bad for driving stick.


So, it looks like I'll be ordering:

LS7 lifters
LS6 springs
Comp's Trunion upgrade
LS2 trays
MLS head gaskets
Intake manifold gasket

Already ordered ARP head bolt kit for $109 shipped off ebay.

Will I need new valve cover gaskets or can those be reused?

etcts-v

I've had good luck with B-12 Chemtool fuel system cleaner, wipe it on and let it sit for a while and the carbon wipes right off.

yooperLS6

Thanks God it's the right knee.

All the gaskets are reusable other than the head gaskets. I replaced mine on the Vette at 103000 miles because I am old school. Just do a good inspection including the rockers.

You don't need the Comp Trunion upgrade unless you are running .600 lift or more. I would put that money toward new exhaust valves as they get brittle with mile. My grandson dropped one on the floor and it shattered. FYI.

I would suggest using LS6 lifters as they are designed for your motor.