Pulling heads
06-05-2012, 08:33 PM
#61
The sensor itself is still in the engine, the part of the harness going to it is also where the passenger side O2 sensor comes from. At the very rear of the valley pan the sensor basically looks like it drops straight in and the plug faces rearward. The car actually ran OK without it. I never checked codes because I figured it was just for the rear O2's and/or because of the flange leak.
06-05-2012, 08:46 PM
#63
Battery is sitting on the floor and the heads are off. I think I'll just fix it and not worry about what sensor it is.. haha.
Now that it's all apart I think I'll start cleaning up what I've got off. Maybe add a little brushed finish to the valve covers and clean the gunk off the power steering pump.
Now that it's all apart I think I'll start cleaning up what I've got off. Maybe add a little brushed finish to the valve covers and clean the gunk off the power steering pump.
06-06-2012, 04:38 AM
#64
TECH Fanatic
The sensor itself is still in the engine, the part of the harness going to it is also where the passenger side O2 sensor comes from. At the very rear of the valley pan the sensor basically looks like it drops straight in and the plug faces rearward. The car actually ran OK without it. I never checked codes because I figured it was just for the rear O2's and/or because of the flange leak.
Flat 3 wire sensor center of rear valley = Cam sensor
Round 3 wire sensor (off center to drivers side) = Oil press sensor
You should have DTC's P0335, P0336, P0341, and P0342 stored from this.
06-06-2012, 08:49 AM
#66
Yeah, don't let your friends borrow a camera. I have another one, but it's a POS and takes awful, washed-out pictures. Perhaps it's time to buy another one. I'd like a go-pro though...
I'll see if I can find a decent camera for some pics of this action.
The valve covers turned out OK for just a rough scuffing. Once I get them nice I'll probably shoot them with some VHT clear. They'll rarely be seen, but I've got the time and sand paper handy... why not?
I'll see if I can find a decent camera for some pics of this action.
The valve covers turned out OK for just a rough scuffing. Once I get them nice I'll probably shoot them with some VHT clear. They'll rarely be seen, but I've got the time and sand paper handy... why not?
06-07-2012, 10:00 AM
#69
Dropped head off at machine shop today and they got the bolt out without a problem. I texted a friend of mine who I used to work with that went to Wyotech for High Performance engine building and he's got some decent experience, so he'll be lending me a hand with the install of the new parts.
I'll also be checking out his current project which is a 67 fastback mustang with a 427 blow thru turbo...
I'll also be checking out his current project which is a 67 fastback mustang with a 427 blow thru turbo...
06-07-2012, 12:26 PM
#70
id just replace the seals and springs.. and have the shop deck the heads for a good seal on the gaskets.. thats all i did to my heads when the motor was apart.. new ls9 springs were only 80 bucks.. i used the gm performance seals and head gaskets with new gm bolts.
06-08-2012, 05:49 AM
#73
Are there any benefits using the GM CTS-VR Racing Team Hyd. Lifters vs. the LS7 lifters, other than them being lighter? Has anyone heard of any reliability issues with the CTS-VR hyd. lifters?
Last edited by cam3439; 06-08-2012 at 12:36 PM.
06-11-2012, 10:51 AM
#74
Good stuff in this thread. I'm building my parts list to do the EXACT same thing you're doing (broken exhaust manifold bolt). I'm trying to save enough for cam, springs, and double roller timing chain while I'm in there though. The exhaust leak may lead me to doing this sooner than later though. Thumbs up on everyone's input. Helps me out alot as this is my first LS engine.
06-11-2012, 12:03 PM
#75
TECH Fanatic
Good stuff in this thread. I'm building my parts list to do the EXACT same thing you're doing (broken exhaust manifold bolt). I'm trying to save enough for cam, springs, and double roller timing chain while I'm in there though. The exhaust leak may lead me to doing this sooner than later though. Thumbs up on everyone's input. Helps me out alot as this is my first LS engine.
GM # 12586482 - chain $31.75
06-11-2012, 12:21 PM
#77
TECH Fanatic
06-11-2012, 01:27 PM
#79
stock lifters are fine.. lifter falure is not as common as it has been brought up lately. lifters fail when either the motor has been neglected IE: proper oil changes and such... or the cam and spring choice is a little extream. factor that in with certain driving styles.. i personally know of 4 engines running stock lifters making 9-1200 whp with no issues. id be more concerned with bending a push rod before lifter failure
06-11-2012, 07:58 PM
#80
I just went to finish ordering my parts and put together a shopping cart on GMPartsDirect.com. I know some have mixed opinions about them, but I figured their prices wouldn't be much more if any.
For LS6 springs (12586484) their price is 7.41 a piece. x16 = 118.56
I thought I could get a set of these for under $70...
Is there a PN for a full set of these that is significantly less? or am I just on the wrong site?
For LS6 springs (12586484) their price is 7.41 a piece. x16 = 118.56
I thought I could get a set of these for under $70...
Is there a PN for a full set of these that is significantly less? or am I just on the wrong site?