heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I have a set of slightly used ones out of Mr. Vette I will sell cheap.

Less then 9 k mi.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Heavy, I think I'll buy some new warrantied parts along with everything else I need though. Trying to keep everything in the same shipment.

I did find my problem though. The PN I was using was for the individual springs. The PN for the LS6 spring kit is 12499224. 53.58 on GMpartsDirect.com

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I was trying to be sarcastic.

They are free if you pay shipping.

The whole point of pulling them was because I don't trust them.

Here is a fun idea, you stick them in your motor...............lol

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Didn't trust them because you have high lift cam? Or didnt trust them with stock setup?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Parts list is as follows:

12499225 x1 LS7 lifter kit
12595365 x4 Lifter trays
12499224 x1 LS6 springs kit
12482063 x2 Valve seals kit
12589226 x2 Head Gaskets
ARP 134-3609 Cylinder Head Bolts

And I also opted for the Comp Cams trunion upgrade Colorado Speed was offering.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...ls-series.html

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

The rule of thumb is to improve the valvetrain first.

Since I put the maggie on it, it doesn't make sense to ignore this stuff, especially with known failures.

kl2onik

iTrader: (3)

My mechanic did the cam, heads, and springs w all the goodies on the v in 8hrs. He said that it is cake compared to the ls blocks like the ss's and most other ls1's where the block is much further back into the firewall. However, proper tools help dramatically and cost a bit but also help prevent "boom" headaches later. Everything should be torqued correctly. I didn't have the nerve to do it myself and risk fkn it up and paid him a cool g with a tune. In the end I'm glad I trusted him cause he does them all day. But I am a newbie at engine work so that is what drove my decission...body work is a whole other story. BUDRACING I was also wondering when I lived in atl I kept seeing a black V driving around at princeton lakes when I did my internal med rotation out there. Its right off the 285 loop, it was modded and kind of sold me on buying the v in the first place. I see you are from decatur up north but thought it may have been you?

PS Here is a good write-up that I read when i was in the market for a cam thought it may help you if you decide to tackle it http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I've only had the car for a year in May, so perhaps it wasn't me. I don't see too many other V's around town and when I do they're pretty stockish looking. There's a red one runnin around town who I met the owner of when I worked in Alpharetta. Saw him this past weekend on Peachtree in Buckhead actually.

I will actually have some help/guidance as I'm reassembling these heads. A friend of mine went to school for engine building and offered to lend me a hand.

I'm actually OK with digging into the engine. Hands-on is how I learn, so next time I'll at least know what I'm doing.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Took some pictures, finally.

After cleaning with some B12 Chemtool cleaner:


Polishing intake ports in process:



Brushed finish valve covers being clear coated with VHT:




Cleaning the oil out of the intake manifold:


Torn Camshaft Position sensor plug:


Wrapped header:


Le Crime Scene:

Dmax/04V

Looks good man, those intake manifolds get real nasty with higher miles. Best of luck.

Vemon

Finally some PICS!! I'm going to get the same exact parts list as you except patriot gold double valve springs and a LS2 chain, haven't decided on a cam yet. Leaning towards a G5X3 or X2. Going to tackle this in the next couple weeks hopefully.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Good call on wrappin' those headers! Thatta boy!

etcts-v

Lookin good!! Fun project, thanks for sharing the pics!

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Finally got my parts yesterday night. I'm in the process of replacing the valve springs on a bench.

What's the best method for holding the valves shut while I compress the springs?
The spring compressor alone just opens the valves and the seats remain tight. Been scouring youtube, but everyone shows how to do it with the heads on the car.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

What do you think of the chances I'll break my stock chain with the Comp TRuTorq L3 cam (223/236 .612/.610 115LSA) and Comp 26926 spring kit (129 @ 1.835 and 470 @ 1.160)?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Just put masking tape over the valves to hold them in place.

Duct tape will work also.

gearhead68

iTrader: (2)

What type of spring compressor are you using? On the bench you should use a c-clamp type.

gearhead68

iTrader: (2)

I re read your post. I assume the retainers are stuck to the valve stem. In that case you can remove all 16 springs in less than 5 minutes by smacking the top of the retainer with a hammer and a deep wall socket that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the spring retainer.
Before I get hazed by all the experts, trust me, they all do it that way in a machine shop.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Thanks gearhead, that's just the tip I was looking for.

Status: Lifters and trays are in and camshaft position sensor wire is fixed.

Trying to get this done by Friday.

yooperLS6

The ATI Super Damper will help considerable. What breaks chains is a steady diet of road course action combined with inferior aftermarket dampers and missing shifts. For endurance the C5R chain from Katech or the good Cloyes set perform well.