Temperature after Maggie install
06-27-2012, 12:21 PM
#41
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The LS2 TB is expensive because it's hard to find, IMO. Recommend having your existing TB professionally rebuilt, ported, and polished if you want to mess with it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-awesome.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-awesome.html
06-27-2012, 01:00 PM
#43
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I want to delete the EVAP to make it easier to install my FRCs.
I need to order one of those inline fillers. Hey DMM did you just cut your hose to fit the inline filler?
Last edited by JayBirdWs6; 06-27-2012 at 01:45 PM.
06-28-2012, 05:11 AM
#44
Good ole heat soak lol. Hopefully ill get to see you down OC in the fall. Then we can run the train on biggie and have him ordering parts by the time he gets home.
I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.
I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.
06-28-2012, 06:40 AM
#45
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Good ole heat soak lol. Hopefully ill get to see you down OC in the fall. Then we can run the train on biggie and have him ordering parts by the time he gets home.
I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.
I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.
06-28-2012, 10:34 AM
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06-28-2012, 01:10 PM
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These and most newer cars bleed themselves so no need to do any kind of manual bleeding. If your car isnt bleeding properly then get a new reservoir cap.
EDIT: I didnt notice there were 3 pages to this..haha. I'm writing about something I saw on the first page. Ignore me.
EDIT: I didnt notice there were 3 pages to this..haha. I'm writing about something I saw on the first page. Ignore me.
06-28-2012, 01:33 PM
#51
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If you can do $4500-$5000...you're better off with an E-Force.
06-30-2012, 02:52 PM
#55
Heh, 4500-5500. Not gonna happen on an E-Force. You may get a base unit for that price.
Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.
Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)
Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.
Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.
Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)
Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.
07-12-2012, 06:30 AM
#56
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What did you do about the top nipple? They only supplied me with 1 screw cap and I have 2 holes to cap it looks like.
Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."
I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend
Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."
I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend
Last edited by JayBirdWs6; 07-12-2012 at 08:32 AM.
07-12-2012, 08:41 AM
#57
What did you do about the top nipple? They only supplied me with 1 screw cap and I have 2 holes to cap it looks like.
Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."
I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend
Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."
I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend
07-12-2012, 09:46 AM
#59
on a 93°F/34°C day
sitting traffic heat soaked / slow moving or stopped
Oil temp ~ 224°F / 107°C
Coolant no higher than 92°C / 197°F
IAT (procharged / FMIntercooled) no boost ~41°C / 106°F
Highway moving:
Oil about the same
Coolant 81-83°C / 178-182°F
Running two 12" Derale 16925 over 4400cfm pushers
lower stat and tuned for the above coolant temps
sitting traffic heat soaked / slow moving or stopped
Oil temp ~ 224°F / 107°C
Coolant no higher than 92°C / 197°F
IAT (procharged / FMIntercooled) no boost ~41°C / 106°F
Highway moving:
Oil about the same
Coolant 81-83°C / 178-182°F
Running two 12" Derale 16925 over 4400cfm pushers
lower stat and tuned for the above coolant temps
07-12-2012, 09:50 AM
#60
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Heh, 4500-5500. Not gonna happen on an E-Force. You may get a base unit for that price.
Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.
Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)
Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.
Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.
Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)
Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.
