Stock Navi screen protective glass... To replace or refinish??
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I bought standard acrylic and figured I'd just get a lay over. Now that I know they sell non-glare... I'll just spend another $3 and get another piece and cut it again. Easier than hunting for a lay over.
However, I think the thickness on the non-glare was much thinner than what comes in there which is why I went standard acrylic last night.
Noticed as I was installing my buttons, the dot buttons are different on the top 3 than the bottom 3. 3 have a male type tip that slides in a groove and 3 have a female type tip that slide over a groove on the faceplate. Well... They sent me 4 and 2! FML! So I put it all back together with one old button and the old glass for now and just reinstalled it in the car. I'll have to pull it back out Monday or Tuesday when the button Luke and Lindsay is sending me for replacement arrives so in the meantime, I'll figure out the best solution for the acrylic.
So... Get the same thickness acrylic that comes factory but in clear and add a anti-glare film myself or get the thinner anti-glare acrylic and see if it works. It's about half as thick though.
However, I think the thickness on the non-glare was much thinner than what comes in there which is why I went standard acrylic last night.
Noticed as I was installing my buttons, the dot buttons are different on the top 3 than the bottom 3. 3 have a male type tip that slides in a groove and 3 have a female type tip that slide over a groove on the faceplate. Well... They sent me 4 and 2! FML! So I put it all back together with one old button and the old glass for now and just reinstalled it in the car. I'll have to pull it back out Monday or Tuesday when the button Luke and Lindsay is sending me for replacement arrives so in the meantime, I'll figure out the best solution for the acrylic.
So... Get the same thickness acrylic that comes factory but in clear and add a anti-glare film myself or get the thinner anti-glare acrylic and see if it works. It's about half as thick though.
I also agree that the non-glare doesn't make a huge difference, it's nice but not a deal breaker necessarily.
When I installed mine I put a small bead of clear silicone around the outside edges to hold it in place just to be sure, didn't want to pull the nav unit apart again.
Last edited by etcts-v; 07-19-2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Best tuner in the area! All the F-body guys on the Northwest section of this forum rave about him, if you do a search of that section you will see a grip of posts. LS motors is all he does lots of custom builds & tunes on corvettes.
Here is his facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wongs-...g/115667950915
Tune is $450 which is compariable with all the other tuners in this area, I got quotes from everyone before I found Wong.
I went out to Horsepower Ranch last year which is just up Tiger Mountain Road in Maple Valley, he has a kick *** place with a huge shop and lots of nice cars that he tunes and races, however you have to own a Diablo Sport Predator handheld for him to do the tune. Here is his website: http://hpranch.com/
There is also a well known V8 tuner in Kirkland call Carb Connection, the've done a lot of corevette's as well and the tune is the same price $450, however I've been told that Wong is worth the drive and the best in the business so I'm going that route. Here is carbb connection: http://www.carbconn.com/
Here is his facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wongs-...g/115667950915
Tune is $450 which is compariable with all the other tuners in this area, I got quotes from everyone before I found Wong.
I went out to Horsepower Ranch last year which is just up Tiger Mountain Road in Maple Valley, he has a kick *** place with a huge shop and lots of nice cars that he tunes and races, however you have to own a Diablo Sport Predator handheld for him to do the tune. Here is his website: http://hpranch.com/
There is also a well known V8 tuner in Kirkland call Carb Connection, the've done a lot of corevette's as well and the tune is the same price $450, however I've been told that Wong is worth the drive and the best in the business so I'm going that route. Here is carbb connection: http://www.carbconn.com/
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You might consider ordering from TAP, they can give you any thickness you want. With that said, I don't think the thickness will make a huge difference since it's not a touch screen, that is if it is thick enough for those little clips that hold the screen down and prevent it from sliding or moving around.
I also agree that the non-glare doesn't make a huge difference, it's nice but not a deal breaker necessarily.
When I installed mine I put a small bead of clear silicone around the outside edges to hold it in place just to be sure, didn't want to pull the nav unit apart again.
I also agree that the non-glare doesn't make a huge difference, it's nice but not a deal breaker necessarily.
When I installed mine I put a small bead of clear silicone around the outside edges to hold it in place just to be sure, didn't want to pull the nav unit apart again.
If I order from TAP, will it come cut already with the coating on it? How much did it run u?
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Hmm... Thanks for the info bud! I wonder if I buy the thinner non-glare lexan from home depot along with the regular thicker lexan if I could fit the non glare in front? Like stack them. That way it would have the thickness with the non-glare piece in front. Don't see why that wouldn't work unless it makes it too thick but the stock glass has some room to move so I might have enough room to work with.
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Hmm... Thanks for the info bud! I wonder if I buy the thinner non-glare lexan from home depot along with the regular thicker lexan if I could fit the non glare in front? Like stack them. That way it would have the thickness with the non-glare piece in front. Don't see why that wouldn't work unless it makes it too thick but the stock glass has some room to move so I might have enough room to work with.
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Thanks for all of your help with this!!
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Ok cool. I'll try that. Picked up the non-glare lexan today so I'll cut it tonight and fit it to my old faceplate. Should have the replacement buttons in on Monday Luke said so I can finish it completely and then re-install it all again. I think it'll work like that. May be a tight fit but I'd rather that then have it moving around in there.
Thanks for all of your help with this!!![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
Thanks for all of your help with this!!
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
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The radio came out easily, and the face of the radio came off easily. The non-glare styrene went in smoothly. Murphy struck when trying to reassemble the faceplate to the chassis. There are two white multi-pin connectors attached to a circuit board. These hold the ribbon cable connectors attached to the face. When reinserting them, the connectors popped off the circuit board. They are attached in an extremely flimsy fashion (that I could tell.) I tried epoxying them back on, but it seems the pins in the back of the connectors are no longer touching the metal pads on the circuit board. The buttons on either side of the newly clean screen are no longer functional. Back to the dealer to swap out the head unit... $$$$...
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The radio came out easily, and the face of the radio came off easily. The non-glare styrene went in smoothly. Murphy struck when trying to reassemble the faceplate to the chassis. There are two white multi-pin connectors attached to a circuit board. These hold the ribbon cable connectors attached to the face. When reinserting them, the connectors popped off the circuit board. They are attached in an extremely flimsy fashion (that I could tell.) I tried epoxying them back on, but it seems the pins in the back of the connectors are no longer touching the metal pads on the circuit board. The buttons on either side of the newly clean screen are no longer functional. Back to the dealer to swap out the head unit... $$$$...