Installing ground control kit this afternoon... Any tips to make it easier??
07-30-2012, 08:33 AM
#21
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I run the GC/FG2 500/550 setup and really like like it. It is a great kit. no issues with mine, at all. 550 in the rear.
only wish I had 1" more in the back. I refuse to ditch the rear perches. I run the rears as low as they would go (exception to fine tuning the right rear) and made the front match height.
I did not use a spring compressor. not needed.
Fuzzy, I can pull my 10" springs out jacked up in the rear, without removing anything.
Cadzilla, you do not like the QA1's?? i was considering those.
I also installed the c5/PFADT upper shock mounts. I alos removed the rear dust covers and reinstalled the bump stump on the shock, after I cut the bump stop in half.
I also considered getting a set of really low rated rear springs for the strip to help with transfer weight. going to try that this season.
the hardest part is punching out those bushing in the front upper control arm and flipping them around. sucks. I did not have the tool with my kit.
only wish I had 1" more in the back. I refuse to ditch the rear perches. I run the rears as low as they would go (exception to fine tuning the right rear) and made the front match height.
I did not use a spring compressor. not needed.
Fuzzy, I can pull my 10" springs out jacked up in the rear, without removing anything.
Cadzilla, you do not like the QA1's?? i was considering those.
I also installed the c5/PFADT upper shock mounts. I alos removed the rear dust covers and reinstalled the bump stump on the shock, after I cut the bump stop in half.
I also considered getting a set of really low rated rear springs for the strip to help with transfer weight. going to try that this season.
the hardest part is punching out those bushing in the front upper control arm and flipping them around. sucks. I did not have the tool with my kit.
Last edited by VeryWhiteDevil; 07-30-2012 at 08:47 AM.
07-30-2012, 08:47 AM
#22
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Glad to hear it! I'll just run this kit then and stop my whining. Lol
As far as the extra drop in the rear... What perches would you remove to achieve that? Is it safe to run it that way? And again, you would obviously just be at the absolute low point without any adjustment capability right?
My kit has that little CTS-V bushing tool thing.
As far as the extra drop in the rear... What perches would you remove to achieve that? Is it safe to run it that way? And again, you would obviously just be at the absolute low point without any adjustment capability right?
My kit has that little CTS-V bushing tool thing.
07-30-2012, 08:57 AM
#23
Did the PFADT mounts do anything for you?
If you can get 10" springs out the back, you must have stock sway bars.
Removing the gold ring perches in the back makes little difference in ride height, plus you'll mess up the coatings back there.
If you can get 10" springs out the back, you must have stock sway bars.
Removing the gold ring perches in the back makes little difference in ride height, plus you'll mess up the coatings back there.
07-30-2012, 09:21 AM
#24
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not sure about the PFADT's. I also used the c5 shock mounts to body. so basically solidified everything in the rear. I also have the rear strut bar.
I have to say car really feels planted in the rear now, where as before it seems to kind of walk a little at high speeds. To me, feels like it handles better now than ever.
I was considering the HOTBARS or at least the ADDCO rear bar.
I did not mention and you may not even want to do it, heck I may even have Fuzzy's, LOL, the z06 endlinks for the front sways. I installed those at the same time. they just look so much beefier than the stock ones, I had to do it.
I have to say car really feels planted in the rear now, where as before it seems to kind of walk a little at high speeds. To me, feels like it handles better now than ever.
I was considering the HOTBARS or at least the ADDCO rear bar.
I did not mention and you may not even want to do it, heck I may even have Fuzzy's, LOL, the z06 endlinks for the front sways. I installed those at the same time. they just look so much beefier than the stock ones, I had to do it.
07-30-2012, 09:32 AM
#25
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I still believe the PFADT mounts do put the shock at the proper angle, which if that is the intended benefit, it completes the task. I also have to say the difference in the c5/PFADT mount vs. the stock V mount is like night and day.
07-30-2012, 10:01 AM
#26
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How much is that mount and where could I order it? You guys suggest it?
I actually have a set of z06 end links in the box with my mighty mouse kit. All wait to be installed. Lol
I actually have a set of z06 end links in the box with my mighty mouse kit. All wait to be installed. Lol
07-30-2012, 10:07 AM
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I have set of the c5 mounts, you just need to track down the PFADT's. they are hard to find. you don't necessarily need them at all. Me and maybe a couple of people even run them. I have Ichpen's old set.
the pfadt's are like 250 for 4, but you only need 2. plenty of people will split them with you on the CF forum or here for that matter, if you can find them.
like I said,you don't NEED them. just another piece to the rear end puzzle.
the pfadt's are like 250 for 4, but you only need 2. plenty of people will split them with you on the CF forum or here for that matter, if you can find them.
like I said,you don't NEED them. just another piece to the rear end puzzle.
07-30-2012, 10:08 AM
#28
They stopped selling it. There's a huge thread about it on the CadillacForums. I caught the tail end of the thread and went looking around the internet for the mounts to no avail.
07-30-2012, 10:20 AM
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Ahhh ok. Well I won't worry about that right now then. I'll get the kit on the car and get it adjusted how I want it and then I'll look at going with aftermarket sway bars, strut tower braces, those mounts, etc to stiffen things up a little more if needed.
To get the maximum drop in the rear by removing the perch I've heard people talk about, is it the lower perch theyre talking about leaving off or what?
Maximum drop with it in the rear is said to be 1". I have a feeling I want it to be a little lower than that. Sitting right on the tire is where I really want it stance wise. I don't like any fender gap but tucking tire would be too much IMO.
To get the maximum drop in the rear by removing the perch I've heard people talk about, is it the lower perch theyre talking about leaving off or what?
Maximum drop with it in the rear is said to be 1". I have a feeling I want it to be a little lower than that. Sitting right on the tire is where I really want it stance wise. I don't like any fender gap but tucking tire would be too much IMO.
07-30-2012, 10:43 AM
#31
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Ok. I'll see if I can google or search for some more info on how people are obtaining the extra drop with the perch removal and where exactly I should expect it to sit if I did that.
08-07-2012, 03:55 AM
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Ok fellas...
Finally started on the GC install earlier this afternoon. Got the front end done. Set the lower perch at halfway in the front on both sides and dropped it down. 25" on the drivers side and 25-1/8" on the passenger side. Way too low. I'll have to lift it back up to probably 26" to 26.5" even to keep it practical although it looks sick the way it is. It's tucking tire on both sides with 255/40/18's. I'll be doing the rear tomorrow. Running the 500's in the front and 550's in the rear. Changing springs won't be a big deal so I figure I'll try it this way first.
If anyone has a height suggestion from ground to fender, lmk what you're running. Car is a daily and I do like it low but I have long tubes and don't want to be smashing my exhaust or dragging my valance on everything. So far so good though.
Finally started on the GC install earlier this afternoon. Got the front end done. Set the lower perch at halfway in the front on both sides and dropped it down. 25" on the drivers side and 25-1/8" on the passenger side. Way too low. I'll have to lift it back up to probably 26" to 26.5" even to keep it practical although it looks sick the way it is. It's tucking tire on both sides with 255/40/18's. I'll be doing the rear tomorrow. Running the 500's in the front and 550's in the rear. Changing springs won't be a big deal so I figure I'll try it this way first.
If anyone has a height suggestion from ground to fender, lmk what you're running. Car is a daily and I do like it low but I have long tubes and don't want to be smashing my exhaust or dragging my valance on everything. So far so good though.
08-07-2012, 05:31 AM
#33
I'm surprised that you got the rear down that low with 10" springs (even considering your spring rate). Keep in mind that the rear FG2's will rise a bit once you drive the car. Did you drive at least 1/4 mile before making those measurements?
08-07-2012, 08:03 AM
#34
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Shoot for 26 to 26.25. The fronts you will need to set the perch almost to the top with about 6-8 threads visable above if I remember correctly. You may have to adjust it a few times.
08-07-2012, 12:35 PM
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The rear hasn't been done yet. Only the front. Im doing the rear now. I plan to run it as low as possible back there by leaving the perch off and doing whatever u need to just to make sure its level from side to side and then I'll make the front match it.
Why will the rears rise a bit? I will be installing a mighty mouse kit out back instead of the GC spacers since they aren't nearly as big.
Why will the rears rise a bit? I will be installing a mighty mouse kit out back instead of the GC spacers since they aren't nearly as big.
08-07-2012, 12:50 PM
#37
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Well that sucks. My fog lights are already too bright to stop that anyway.
And I didn't drive the car 1/4 mile. Just backed it down the long driveway and back up to get it to settle out. Looks like tony tones car up front lol
And I didn't drive the car 1/4 mile. Just backed it down the long driveway and back up to get it to settle out. Looks like tony tones car up front lol
08-07-2012, 01:23 PM
#38
Unless you beat me to it, I'll try to remember to count the threads on my front suspension. You'll probably have to spin the collars down 3-4 threads until you reach the proper ride height. There's nothing magical about a quarter mile--just get the car out there and do something to cycle the weight around. Accelerate, brake, and corner hard. Then check your height. You may notice that the rear settles a little bit overnight.
It's also probably helpful to remember that as you adjust your springs, your weight distribution will shift forward or back, which will modify ride height on the other side of the car and change your overall handling characteristics. Recommend avoiding adjusting both the front and back springs simultaneously.
It's also probably helpful to remember that as you adjust your springs, your weight distribution will shift forward or back, which will modify ride height on the other side of the car and change your overall handling characteristics. Recommend avoiding adjusting both the front and back springs simultaneously.
08-07-2012, 01:33 PM
#39
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Spin em down 3-4 threads? If its too low, id obviously need to be going up with it right to lift the car up by a few threads?
So... Running the rear without the perch should put me just above the tire in the rear right? I know with the perch on, its about 1" drop in the rear but the perch coming off, it should add another .5" of drop or so from what i understand.
Almost wish i would have just gone with the H&R's but i do like the look of the coilovers and adjustability. Seems like there will be some noise unless im lucky. The springs in the front (may be better one i lift it back up) dont seat in both perches. The spring sits on the bottom perch and about 1" from the top perch until i start bringing the car down and guide the top into the upper perch. Seems like as soon as the car hits a big enough bump to lose compression on the coil that it would clunk around.
So... Running the rear without the perch should put me just above the tire in the rear right? I know with the perch on, its about 1" drop in the rear but the perch coming off, it should add another .5" of drop or so from what i understand.
Almost wish i would have just gone with the H&R's but i do like the look of the coilovers and adjustability. Seems like there will be some noise unless im lucky. The springs in the front (may be better one i lift it back up) dont seat in both perches. The spring sits on the bottom perch and about 1" from the top perch until i start bringing the car down and guide the top into the upper perch. Seems like as soon as the car hits a big enough bump to lose compression on the coil that it would clunk around.
08-07-2012, 01:48 PM
#40
It might seem like that, but in actuality, you have to be doing some insane driving (i.e. get massive air) to unseat the springs. Once you get the proper end links in there, there will be no gap, even with the wheels all the way off the ground.
Removing the rear perch probably isn't worth the extra wear and tear that will occur. You barely get any additional drop, as counter intuitive as it may seem. Try it and see if you agree.
Lastly, sorry about the confusion. I forgot that the front collars are on the shock body, not the upper mount (it's been a while since I've been in there). You're right--spin then up to raise the front of the car. It's good that you're doing this now with the stock end links. Once you add aftermarket end links, spring tension will make it almost impossible to spin that collar unless you compress the spring with a pair of spring compressors. It's a pain in the ***.
Removing the rear perch probably isn't worth the extra wear and tear that will occur. You barely get any additional drop, as counter intuitive as it may seem. Try it and see if you agree.
Lastly, sorry about the confusion. I forgot that the front collars are on the shock body, not the upper mount (it's been a while since I've been in there). You're right--spin then up to raise the front of the car. It's good that you're doing this now with the stock end links. Once you add aftermarket end links, spring tension will make it almost impossible to spin that collar unless you compress the spring with a pair of spring compressors. It's a pain in the ***.