DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it does indeed. Thank you. I am learning, learning....

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

I've never seen anyone do the outer lip before. Put the jaws in the middle! 3 ton puller is all you need. I had zero problems with mine. But I used a longer bolt.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Make it look like mine.....

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Yo lollygagger! Using the autozone 2-ton 3-jaw puller on the inside didn't work. The teeth on the puller arms bent back.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Rent one from Napa, or somewhere that has decent ****. Or just wait for the one you ordered to come in. I'm guessing the problem is the Auto Zone turd. I used a nice 3 ton that my buddy had from his shop.

Also, the longer Fastenal bolt would help. Or put a longer socket in between the bolt and the inside of the pulley.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Most people use the rented pulleys OK. I suspect mine is clamped on tighter than normal. Posts online divide into people that use the rented pullers without a hitch, and people for whom it has failed once and never use them again. Those people have to search harder for a more quality unit.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

Sorry.. Just want to clarify something (its been a horrible day at work).. I mention SOCKET in the above posts.
I meant = SOCKET EXTENSION.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Well, the OTC puller worked like a charm. Stock puller came off like a knife through butter. Easy.

Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.

Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?

For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

FWIW, I used ARP moly lube under the head of the bolt and the washer (got used to doing it with head studs on my 6.0L) and put red loctite on the threads. Nary a problem. I've pulled it back off to do a timing cover gasket, and all it took was a good strong impact gun.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, good to know it will come off even after red loctite has been used. Is there anything I can get locally (hardware store of autozone, etc.) that is close enough to ARP moly lube?

Random other question-- were you able to get 250lb-ft of torque with a standard torque wrench or did you need a pipe extension? I need to be prepared if I'm gonna use red loctite.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

250lb/ft? I've heard anything from 190lb/ft to 235lb/ft. If you call ARP, you'll get a different answer depending on what day you call, what time of day, who answers the phone, etc. I called to order some extra head studs, and asked the question about the balancer bolt torque with moly lube, got 235 lb/ft. Called a few hrs later to confirm before I torqued it down...next guy said 190 lb/ft...needless to sayI just went 220 with some threadlocker, and called it a day. I was able to get 220 but my engine was out of the car with someone using a flywheel holder to keep the crank from spinning.

Anyway, ARP used to recommend 30wt oil OR Moly lube. I'm not sure what they recommend these days. See if you can stop by Napa, they may have some kind of moly lube there, if you are trying to get this wrapped up rather soon. *Insert Disclaimer here_____________*

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

The instructions for red loctite and 250lb-ft came from the ATI instruction sheet included with the Super Damper.

If I'm just trying to use moly lube or motor oil to lubricate the washer and back of bolt head, does it really matter what I use? I would imagine even WD would do just fine...

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

You gonna keep the puller or sell ? I'm am putting together a cam/balancer tool kit.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Gonna keep it for a few weeks while I watch the new balancer, then will probably sell. If so, I'll PM you.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

I found some Lucas High Performance Assembly Lube at the autozone. Bottle says it contains Zinc, Moly and other stuff. Can I use that in place of the ARP moly lube?

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Thought y'all might like to know, I broke the bit off the modified install-tool inside the crankshaft, and called it. Had the car towed to PSI in Glen Burnie and Jeff saved the day. Very happy with Jeff's work and prices, by the way, and you would be too (as long as you are cool with email communication ONLY, as they basically never pick up their phone). Here's his Ls1tech profile: https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=449

I would have liked to have completed this little project on my own, but in the end I had to call it. I was burning an assload of time better spent advancing my career or... planting daisies or something. Next time I attempt something like this, I will not be using modified tools. I will only use the proper tools for the job.

There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. As factory assembly lines go, there is probably a batch out there that are like mine. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.

Anyway, car is running smooooooth now. Good to be back on the road. Already thinking tune, cam, FI... it's a goddam addiction.

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

So glad your back on the road again....and i heard PSI know their stuff about LS projects...I was going to go to them for my tune. What a mistake....Any way. What about this note having to have an LS specific tool...A friend of mine has a Snap On Pulley kit...That should work, i would think

There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

First off, I'm stunned that you snapped that tool off. Second, glad to hear that you got everything squared away.

Can you elaborate on your impressions with the damper? Specifically:

1. Do you notice any difference in throttle response now that you have a couple of extra pounds on the drivetrain? My guess is "probably not," since you still have your stock 50 lb flywheel.

2. This may be a hard question to answer since your most recent driving impressions feature a failing LS2 pulley, but in your opinion, is the car running smoother than it was before, or about the same?

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Hey buddy...yeah, the 16x2 bit just broke off right above where I had it loctited onto the long threaded bolt. I would imagine if I'd had a few more threads, it wouldn't have broken... but then I wouldn't have had the reach to get the tool started. It was going on fine and dandy, till about 75% of the way on... pop. It just snapped. Fortunately, there was enough thread poking out of the crankshaft that Jeff was able (once he'd removed the ATI hub) to grab it with a vice grip and back it out. I guess that means I could have dealt with it myself, but when this happened, I had pretty much had it. The good ending to this story is that a found a talented, honest LS performance mechanic located closeby. He charged me about half what I expected. Also good is that I learned a ton in the process that I will someday apply to my cam install.

1. Throttle response-- I actually feel slightly better throttle response than I had before. The revs drop markedly faster too, as I would expect would happen with a lighter flywheel. I am trying to compare it to how it was when I first bought the car, and the pulley wasn't crapped out, and yes, I do believe the throttle response is better. Not sure why, but there you go.

2. Smoother? Yes, definitely. The infamous 2K RPM vibration is almost totally gone. What's left is the healthy rumble of an LS motor, pretty much the same all through the rev range.

For those of you who may be consulting this thread to figure out this build, Jeff (LS mechanic) used red loctite on the ARP bolt and torqued to 250lb-ft. We didn't talk about it, he just told me later that's what he'd done.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

You need a kit that has a long enough bolt to reach all the way into the crankshaft and grab as many threads as possible inside the crankshaft so that it can pull on the hub securely. You also need a big enough spacer to allow you to torque the bit nut from the outside without having to use a bunch of 1/4 inch bits to get clearance. Basically, you just need the right tool for the job. I believe someone linked to the right tool earlier in this thread, and there is a guy that makes them on ls1tech (sorry, you'll have to search for it, but it's easy to find). Use the right tool for the job (unless you're a genius engineer who grew up wrenching).