etcts-v

Oh also bought a pair of adjustable Z06 endlinks, I swear I read somewhere that said I only needed adjustable for the rear, can I get by with just solid Z06 endlinks in the front or do I need one additional pair of adjustables for the sway bar install?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

If you plan to stay at a lower ride height, the Z06 endlinks should do you fine.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Ew....the Kiwi. If can cancel your order, buy one of the units directly from China for $35. It's just a rebranded ELM327 application. They're all POSes...only good for clearing codes because they update at 1-2 Hz and and take a couple of minutes to connect to because they require you to dig into your phone and change a whole bunch of network settings every time you want to connect and disconnect.

Good call on the brake lines though. Also, keep in mind that you'll almost certainly need someone with welding experience to attach the high flow cats. My Kooks 6760-FCs wouldn't fit because they were designed to work with the stock manifold. If you had some kind of straight pipe in there already, you might already be good to go, though.

The stock endlinks are acceptable for the rear, but you'll need Z06 endlinks (minimum) in the front. The only caveat is that you'll have to enlarge the end link holes in the sway bar and the car with a 15/32" and buy a set of washers and nuts to fit their M12 threads.

By the way, you'll definitely want to look into getting a grease gun to keep the sway bar bushings lubricated, and you may want to save up for adjustable end links later. Otherwise, your car will release upward as far as the shocks will let it (like c230kompw's car below) when you slam on the brakes from 100+ mph, regardless of your front spring rate.



Proper stance (crankedupforit braking down from 130+ mph at Road America):

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

if you are speaking of tony then he seems to have no trouble with the height of his coilovers. also he has put prob more miles on a set of coilovers than any V owner, combine that with his daily driving the car and using it in tons of ways his input is useful when he gives it.

if you are speaking about someone else then never mind.

etcts-v

That's what I got was adjustable endlinks and I have a couple of grease guns, thanks for the tips!

The units from china don't work with dash command, trust me I tried a few already. My stereo head unit has dash command integrated so that's the only reason I got the kiwi, no need for it to do anything other than display gauges read and clear codes from my head unit. I will use the HP tuners cable for any tuning.

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

Save it (bank/IRA/Stock...)! I can't imagine your going to get 5K more joy out of your car once your done.

That being said the the ground control kit or the cheap coilovers wouldn't be bad to get your height up some, sell off you parts now to add more back into your money pile.

I think a new rear would be good insurance considering your mods too.

Those hoods look nice, but whew... i don't know if i could do that when the hood on the car is still in good shape.

Most of the handling stuff is really not needed unless you track or autocross the car, you just can't really get enough out of it on the street, and our stock setup is pretty good.

etcts-v

Great feedback! Haha, yeah you're right I should save the cash but I know I won't!

I'm at the point with this car that I don't see myself ever selling it, too much blood, sweat, tears and money into it. Once I'm done with school I'll pick up a V2 and then take this badboy and turn it into a track car!!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Questions for etcts-v:

- Why are you running LS7 lifters? Are they quieter?
- How difficult was your Melling pump installation?
- What's up with the bigger alternator? I assume it's for the speakers, but wondered if there were any other little advantages you can think of.
- Have you tried a set of bronze shifter cups, and if so, could you tell any difference?
- How are you liking your blue Revshift motor mounts?
- Any idea what you made with your heads? Did you adjust your compression at all?

etcts-v

I went with the LS7 lifters because everybody on here and on CF all recommended them as an upgrade, from what I remember the main reason is they are the standard replacement part in LS motors these days as they are better designed and are capable of 7500 rpm. There's a grip of threads on here talking about them, the general consensus is that if you're doing a cam and head swap you may as well do the lifters while you're at it.

The dual springs in my new setup are super loud, sounds like a sewing machine when driving which I kind of like!

The melling oil pump is a PITA if you aren't pulling the motor. The main reason is you have to drop the oil pan enough to get it in and getting the pickup tube to actually slide in without jacking the o-ring is damn near impossible. I thought I finally got it, then my roomate snapped one of the rear oil pan bolts (read 108 ft lbs instead 108 inch lbs) dumbass. So I pulled the motor to fix that. When I pulled the motor and flipped it over, I realized that O-ring on the pickup tube was in fact jacked so I'm glad I pulled it. In summary if I were to do this again I would just pull the motor from the get go, makes life 1000 times easier and really isn't that difficult to do.

Here's the O-ring I'm talking about:




I have the bigger alternator for all my amps and electronics in the car, but another advantage would be if you want to run an underdrive pulley on your car without starving it of electricity. Esentially they take a stock oem alternator and rebuild it for efficency. Stock I believe is 150 amps these run 220 amps.

I did do all the bronze shifter cup upgrades and linkage upgrades while I had the tranny out, also added the REVSHIFT trans mount. At first I was pissed becuase it make my shifting a lot worse, is did not want to go into gear at all. However after 1,000 miles of break in now I love it, car shifts like butter finally! Still have a biotch of a time getting into reverse, always have to drop into 4th then up into reverse, but all the other gears are like butter! That plastic POS that comes stock is worthless, mine was all busted up when I pulled it. I had to shave the bronze one down a touch to get it in, but $25 WELL spent..

LOVE the revshift mounts, way better than stock, mine were blown to **** when I pulled them. The price is right too! The other thing I replaced was the metal bracket that the motor mounts sit on. When I pulled the motor I realized the bolts going into the frame were damn near rusted all the way through! I would def check them out if you ever pull your motor.

I have no idea what compression ratio I'm sitting at. I did almost all of my engine mods at once so it's hard really tell where I gained from what. My tuner told me he put me on a real mild and safe tune and did say I could gain 15-20hp easy with LS2 Throttle Body (which I'm having ported by Cory out here at the moment) and a FAST 92 intake. After that I'm done with the engine for now, It has more power than I can every use around here until I actually make it to the track. Someday I'll stroke it!