Head Cam Intake THrottle Body Install Writeup
#41
Very Nice write up. I figured I would look at this to get an idea of how hard it was to get to the header bolts because im about to do a head swap. It appears to be fairly easy if you use a open ended wrench or one that has a ratchet end on it.
Also i wanted to add that the sensor on the back of the intake is the sensor that measures manifold pressure therfore it is your MAP sensor and not the MAF sensor.
You may have known that and it may very well have just been a typo, but i figured i would throw that out there.
Also i wanted to add that the sensor on the back of the intake is the sensor that measures manifold pressure therfore it is your MAP sensor and not the MAF sensor.
You may have known that and it may very well have just been a typo, but i figured i would throw that out there.
#42
Awesome write-up, I actually used it to replace my water pump.
1 thing though, the belt routing is wrong. If you route it like your picture the belt rubs on a bolt on the alternator bracket and will tear it up. Had to look up the belt routing elsewhere to fix it.
Ask me how I know. Twice.
1 thing though, the belt routing is wrong. If you route it like your picture the belt rubs on a bolt on the alternator bracket and will tear it up. Had to look up the belt routing elsewhere to fix it.
Ask me how I know. Twice.
#46
TECH Regular
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Awesome write-up, I actually used it to replace my water pump.
1 thing though, the belt routing is wrong. If you route it like your picture the belt rubs on a bolt on the alternator bracket and will tear it up. Had to look up the belt routing elsewhere to fix it.
Ask me how I know. Twice.
1 thing though, the belt routing is wrong. If you route it like your picture the belt rubs on a bolt on the alternator bracket and will tear it up. Had to look up the belt routing elsewhere to fix it.
Ask me how I know. Twice.
#47
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I've been using this write up also for the ls2. There's a few differences like all of the grounds are on the back of the heads and my car had a shim on the crank timing gear. Looks like an offset for the harmonic balancer.
And lollys write up forgets to add putting the timing chain guide back on before putting the oil pump back. I wasn't paying attention and was halfway through putting the oil pump back on when I remember.
It's a great write up and honestly the work isn't too bad as long as you read and take your time
And lollys write up forgets to add putting the timing chain guide back on before putting the oil pump back. I wasn't paying attention and was halfway through putting the oil pump back on when I remember.
It's a great write up and honestly the work isn't too bad as long as you read and take your time
#56
One thing, on the vents at the tb. I'm doing the same fast 102 and ls2 tb, new tb doesn't have coolant lines thru it so I hooked it up just like u done, but what about the vent off pass valve cover, side of intake and valley cover? Connect them all together with a tee? Confused on that part. Thx
#57
One thing, on the vents at the tb. I'm doing the same fast 102 and ls2 tb, new tb doesn't have coolant lines thru it so I hooked it up just like u done, but what about the vent off pass valve cover, side of intake and valley cover? Connect them all together with a tee? Confused on that part. Thx
The other lines are going to my oil catch can.
#58
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Small nit-picky note. You list removing the chain damper before removing the oil pump. This is not possible because the oil pump is in the way of the right side damper bolt. I'm trying to change the damper right now (I have the super stupid orange tensioner) and there's no way of getting that bolt out. I completely unbolted the oil pump, but with the pickup attached, there's only a tiny bit of flexibility.
Last edited by bmylez; 11-09-2014 at 08:19 PM.