H&R lowering question
10-11-2012, 09:24 PM
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H&R lowering question Ok so my buddy had his 05 V lowered on H&R springs he has fe4 shocks so no nivomat. The problem is only on drivers rear it sits about 1 inch higher. Switched springs same thing. Anyone have any idea?
10-11-2012, 11:40 PM
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10-12-2012, 12:33 AM
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No matter what factory shocks come on the car, if you dont use spacers with your lowering springs, the rear will pump itself right back up negating the springs. The spacers basically trick the shocks into thinking they have already set at the correct height.
10-12-2012, 05:28 AM
#6
I have 8" Eibach springs on my Ground Control package, and I have a Mighty Mouse kit collecting dust in a box because I thought (based on reading threads here and on the Cadillac Forums) that it would be required. As it turns out, the FG2s will pump up about an inch to an inch-and-a-half, but they simply don't have the power to return the car to stock height if you're running 2"+ lower than normal.
^From Escort 9500ci installation...wheels practically brown from Hawk HP+ pad dust.
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10-12-2012, 01:39 PM
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The point of the MM spacers is to keep the rear self leveling shocks within their "optimal" operating range. The shocks are designed to work within the travel range that the original CTS-V suspsension utilizes them in. Lowering the car changes the geometry and skews that operating range, so the shocks are trying to pump up the rear when they really shouldn't be, and the pumped up shocks have a less desireable ride quality than when theyre functioning in their optimal range. Who knows what other sorts of excessive stresses and wear are put on the internals when driving around with the shocks all pumped up all of the time.
Yes they will TRY to level out the car, and yes there is a limit to how much they can do so when you significantly lower the car, but do you really want to have your rear shocks TRYING their hardest to lift up the rear of the car ALL of the time while youre driving? This is essentially the equivalent of driving around on a stock suspension with enough weight in the trunk to compress the rear suspension by 1.5+ inches while parked. Puts un-due strain and wear on the shocks..
Yes they will TRY to level out the car, and yes there is a limit to how much they can do so when you significantly lower the car, but do you really want to have your rear shocks TRYING their hardest to lift up the rear of the car ALL of the time while youre driving? This is essentially the equivalent of driving around on a stock suspension with enough weight in the trunk to compress the rear suspension by 1.5+ inches while parked. Puts un-due strain and wear on the shocks..
10-12-2012, 04:31 PM
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That's another valid optioin. Not really much to "worry" about with the spacers. All you have to do is install them when you swap the springs.. I've been running on my H&R/MM combo for the better part of 2 years now with zero issues.
10-12-2012, 09:49 PM
#13
Disagree. They'll try to level out the car, but there's a limit.
I have 8" Eibach springs on my Ground Control package, and I have a Mighty Mouse kit collecting dust in a box because I thought (based on reading threads here and on the Cadillac Forums) that it would be required. As it turns out, the FG2s will pump up about an inch to an inch-and-a-half, but they simply don't have the power to return the car to stock height if you're running 2"+ lower than normal.
I have 8" Eibach springs on my Ground Control package, and I have a Mighty Mouse kit collecting dust in a box because I thought (based on reading threads here and on the Cadillac Forums) that it would be required. As it turns out, the FG2s will pump up about an inch to an inch-and-a-half, but they simply don't have the power to return the car to stock height if you're running 2"+ lower than normal.
01-15-2013, 06:48 AM
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The point of the MM spacers is to keep the rear self leveling shocks within their "optimal" operating range. The shocks are designed to work within the travel range that the original CTS-V suspsension utilizes them in. Lowering the car changes the geometry and skews that operating range, so the shocks are trying to pump up the rear when they really shouldn't be, and the pumped up shocks have a less desireable ride quality than when theyre functioning in their optimal range. Who knows what other sorts of excessive stresses and wear are put on the internals when driving around with the shocks all pumped up all of the time.
Yes they will TRY to level out the car, and yes there is a limit to how much they can do so when you significantly lower the car, but do you really want to have your rear shocks TRYING their hardest to lift up the rear of the car ALL of the time while youre driving? This is essentially the equivalent of driving around on a stock suspension with enough weight in the trunk to compress the rear suspension by 1.5+ inches while parked. Puts un-due strain and wear on the shocks..
Yes they will TRY to level out the car, and yes there is a limit to how much they can do so when you significantly lower the car, but do you really want to have your rear shocks TRYING their hardest to lift up the rear of the car ALL of the time while youre driving? This is essentially the equivalent of driving around on a stock suspension with enough weight in the trunk to compress the rear suspension by 1.5+ inches while parked. Puts un-due strain and wear on the shocks..
