regulater7

I want to install a aftermarket amp and sub into the factory stereo of a Cadillac CTS 2006. I have done a few stereo installs but never on a factory stereo that doesn't have a remote out and rca line outs.

Im basically going to use this guide. I know how to wire everything except getting the LINE OUT and REMOTE of the stock stereo to the AMP. Thats where a wiring harness comes in I guess, What one exactly do I need? Id prefer it do already have the connections for a 2006 Cadillac bose system no navigation. Just going to run a 300 watt amp and a 10" sub nothing crazy just some thump.

IS THIS WHAT I NEED? \/



Things You'll Need

Wiring harness adapter
Amplifier wiring kit
Phillips head screwdriver
Trim panel removal tool
10-mm socket wrench
8-mm magnetized socket

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Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable from the CTS battery. Unscrew the bolt on the clamp with a Phillips heads screwdriver and remove the cable from the negative battery lead.
2

Place the ring terminal of the power supply cable from the amplifier wiring kit around the positive battery lead. Tighten the ring terminal clamp with the screwdriver. Feed the power supply cable through the opening in the firewall to the inside of the cabin.

3

Detach the bottom of the vent dash panel above the stereo. Fold the panel upward and out of the way.
4

Open the ashtray and remove the bolt in the back of the compartment, using an 8-mm socket wrench.
5

Pull the climate control panel from the dash by hand.
6

Remove the two bolts on either side of the stereo mounting bracket, using a 10-mm socket wrench. Pull the stereo from the dash.
7

Pull the wire connections from the back of the stereo. Attach the wiring connection binders to the wiring harness adapter. Connect the wiring harness adapter to the stereo. Connect the turn-on lead and signal cable, from the amplifier wiring kit, to the wiring harness adapter. Feed the two cables through the back of the stereo dock and down to the passenger footwell.
8

Replace the stereo into the dash. Replace the bolts on either side. Replace the climate control panel. Use the magnetized socket to replace the 8-mm bolt into the ashtray compartment. Fold the vent panel down and snap it back into place by hand.
9

Open the CTS doors. Remove the trim panels at the bottom of the door openings with the trim panel removal tool. Lift the carpeting and run the cables to the trunk, past the fold-down rear seats. The power supply cable from the battery (now inside the Cadillac in the driver's footwell) will be routed on the left side of the vehicle; the signal and turn-on lead cables will follow a similar path on the right side.
10

Replace the door panels by hand, securing the carpet with the cables tucked beneath.
11

Connect the turn-on lead and signal cable to the powered sub-woofer in the trunk. Connect the power supply cable to the outlet marked "POWER" on the sub.
12

Connect the grounding wire from the amp wiring kit to the sub-woofer's grounding lead. Connect the wire to a bolt in the trunk. (The bolt should be connected to the frame of the CTS.)
13

Replace the negative lead cable to the battery's negative lead post. Tighten the clamp with the Phillips head screwdriver.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Wrong forum.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

It's more or less the same speaker setup we've got in the V's. The simplest thing to do is find an amp with a High Level Input (speaker wire). Basically, it allows you to plug the existing sub's speaker wires into the amp for the signal. It's pretty seamless.

I used this amp: Pioneer GM-D7500M
I run it at 2 ohms for 400W.

etcts-v

^^^ 2nd This

No need to get that adapter you listed.

If you already have the amp and it doesn't have High Level Inputs, you can just pick up one of these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...FQuCQgod-RcAgA

The easiest place to tap is straight out of the Bose amp in the trunk. For the remote wire just tap the HVAC control wire in the fuse box behind the driver side rear seat.

FknBoss

Or find a line output convertor and use any amp. You tap it into the deck speakers and converts you high input to the rca you need. Their pretty cost effective too specially if your trying to use stuff you already have.

lilgcts-v

quick question if i by accidentally switched my amp to 4 ohm would that cause my amp to over heat start smoking and stop working ?

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

I would advise some device to add bass when things get loud as the stock bose system goes into the sub speaker preservation mode at a certain db level. I believe the microphone on the dash is used to monitor this level but don't know for certain. I used the Audiocontrol LC2i after trying just a basic high to low level adapter to get better control of the signal sent from the bose amp's subwoofer output. This box allows a more constant bass increase as the master volume increases. Its not perfect some songs trigger it better than others, but its worth it imo.