Pull engine or not?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 950
Likes: 6
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Pull engine or not? I am debating on whether or not to just pull the engine out of my car when I do the next round of mods. I have a Monster clutch to install as well as the following items for the engine: CNC heads, MS3 cam, LS7 Lifters, Harland SHarp rockers, new LS6 oil pump, FAST intake, LS7 injectors, billet timing set, ARP rod bolts. I guess you might call this a overhaul rather than a few mods. I have a super nice shop to work in with heat, a lift as well as any tools I could possibly need. So in this dream scenario would you pull the engine and trans (out the bottom) or just get to work swapping stuff out. I will have to remove the cradle anyhow to change rod bolts. I have never pulled a engine from a CTS-V the last one I did was a 03 Z06 (twice don't ask) and I made a cart to hold the entire front cradle and picked the car up off of it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 950
Likes: 6
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I was leaning that way so I guess that settles it. I am trying to do everything at once so I won't have to suffer from problems that pop up when all your parts don't match and so I can dyno tune it once.
If your doing ARP rod bolts the motor has to go to the machine shop anyways. You cannot install ARP rod bolts without resizing the rods. Only bolts you can throw in are Katechs without having the rods redone.
Otherwise yes pulling the motor will make everything insanely easier.
Also I know I have been picking at your build but I wouldnt do harland sharps they have a horrible reputation and give absolutely no benefit on your setup over stock rockers which are used in much more max effort builds without issue.
Otherwise yes pulling the motor will make everything insanely easier.
Also I know I have been picking at your build but I wouldnt do harland sharps they have a horrible reputation and give absolutely no benefit on your setup over stock rockers which are used in much more max effort builds without issue.
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You only need roller tips if you have bronze guides. The minimal side load from stock rockers will not effect steel guides. Itsslow98 was getting at going with a different manufacturer besides Harland Sharp as they have been known to fail.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 950
Likes: 6
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I read about how to resize cracked cap rods and you need larger OD bearings. I assumed since you couldn't machine the mating surfaces that they were throw away I will just buy Katech. I put a set of PRO series ARP bolts in a 03 Z06 with no other modifications. As far as the roller rockers I like Harland Sharp, He invented roller tip rockers as well as bronze bushing them. I also like they are American made about 200 miles from where I live. I hope mine don't fail but if they do I believe they have a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects. I may have to eat my words.
Last edited by Bowtie70SS; Dec 16, 2012 at 10:42 PM.
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From: New Haven, CT
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 950
Likes: 6
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I spoke with ARP tech support and he said PRO series cracked cap bolts are a drop in but you have to remove factory guide sleeves. As far as rockers, any time you reduce friction in a engine you reduce heat and oil temps. Back in the early days rockers wore out quick because of heat and friction, Smokey Yunick invented drippers for the inside of valve covers to focus oil spray back onto the fulcrum of the rockers. Also, I just like the idea of roller rockers.