NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Ok, so I did not realize that the CS kit did not come with the ncessary bushings to cover the install. So the dealership was as usual a stealership. So I turned to ebay and ordered the parts 1st thing monday morning. Well just got the email with the tracking # and they wont be here till the F-ING 2nd! Which is no bueno seeing as the car is apart and not going back together without the 8.8.

So my question is that I have seen people use stacks of washers for a temporary replacement of the bushing. How many washers? How thick are the bushings? I feel it is important seeing as it will control pinion angle to some extent.

thanks in advance!

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

Looks to be about 11/16th. The shorter half of the bushing goes on top.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Thank you! that is exactly what I needed!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

What have 8.8 folks been doing for the front bushings? I have the old, stock rubber ones that came with my used housing, but plan to go with either poly and aluminum replacements that are available on the market.

I guess basically this comes down to the age-old debate of firming things up for performance vs. NVH for daily driving. Is anyone running the aluminum mounts? If so, what cradle bushings are you running, and do you find the aluminum mounts transmit noise to the cabin?

NIKDSC5, what did you end up running? Did you start with washers as spacers and then go to something else?

I still have my stock cradle bushings, with the old Specter Werkes delrin inserts, so I'm guessing I would be fine to run the aluminum mounts. But I'd still like to hear what others have done. Thanks!

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Does someone make solid mounts for it? I would be interested in trying them!

I ran a stack of washers for a while until I replaced them with the same bushings pictured above. I honestly cannot remember any difference when I did the swap. Not like the washers added and vibs, I do remember that it made the tru trac clunk more pronounced.

Honestly, I think the poly bushings will be the best option. Firming it up in that location may help with wheel hop but it would be sooo...minimal. The changing of pinion angle is the only thing really effected here. and with the smaller bushing on top its not like its changing more than 2-3 degrees on hard launches. So for a drag car I would go solid mounts, of course stil would put more stress on the housing, but the 8.8 is know to handle it well so no big deal.

Edit: except those ears! I forgot they can break and are known to break. Which makes me think I would rather run the poly bushings to allow for some flex to keep those front ears from breaking.

serik21

For temp solution go buy hockey pucs and a hole saw for the diameter of the bushing drill out the hockey pucs fast and reliable temp bushing

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I don't know how thick hockey pucks are, but this is an old thread. Also, I guess its a little easier to get a hold of hockey pucks, but washers works. And because of gulf's picture this thread will show you how thick they need to be stacked.

Thankfully AAIIC and some still search for topic needs they have. And resurrect old threads instead of starting new.

Edit: It appears a hockey puck is 1" thick. Which with my setup is no bueno. I once reversed the bushings (I put the larger on top) and it caused the CV joint bolt heads to hit the cradle. So not only would you have to hole saw, but you would also have to thin the puck which I can imagine would be a more difficult cut to make square. The bottom bushing can be whatever thickness you want so long as the bolts have enough threads to grab.

serik21

You can drill it and cut it to the correct hieght

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Yes, but what is easier? Cutting a hockey puck with two different holes (ID/OD) and then trimming it down (or vice versa), or simply stacking washers to desired thickness? Sure it is possible, and a decent idea, but to me it sound like something I would manufacture for a more permanent solution.

serik21

Honestly it would take you about 5 min per bushing and much more enjoyable temporary ride. But either way works.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

assuming you have the tools to do so.

serik21

Out of curiosity how old are you?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Out of curiosity can you video tape how you plan on cutting down a hockey puck squarely?

Now, why would my age matter? Because you got called out on (again) a decent idea that, for most would be more difficult than simply stacking washers?

I guess the best part would be handing you two hockey pucks and all the tools necessary, then we could race, I will drive to lowes and get the necessary washer, and we will see who is done first with our temporary solution.

serik21

You don't make it square.




You get one of this. Get the right size for od. And im sure you can handle widening the inside hole with a regular drill bit.

Then you can either cut it or sand it to what ever hieght you need it.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

"Squarely" meaning, shortening it and still having a 90 degree surface. Meaning it was cut at a right angle.....that the entire puck on one side will sit flush with the surface of the vehicle. Sounds easy enough, but I don't see it happening well with a sander.

Thank you, I know what a hole saw and drill bit are.

Look I can add pictures too!


But I digress, for a TEMPORARY solution, it is easier to cut up a hockey puck. Which you might as well keep as a permanent solution because of all the time and effort you're wasting in doing so. So at a min need a drill, drill bit, hole saw, and sander/ban saw to do so. Again, if that takes you ten minutes, please, the world needs you to do a tutorial video.

serik21

Lol chop saw and 90 degree angle but you forget the hockey puck is a poly urethane and it will compress some so even if your cut isn't a perfect it will be oK. Washers will work to but they will be more prone to moving and clanking.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Adding another tool to the list. Hockey pucks are rubber, but you forget how rubber acts when sanded or cut with a chop saw.

The harness of hockey pucks is 91A and that spread unevenly against the front ears of the diff could very easily break them.

Still sticking with the washers.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

There are 2 that I know of - Full Tilt Boogie Racing and Maximum Motorsports - and probably others. MM sells theirs with a aluminum mount to bolt to the rear cover, too, which obviously we wouldn't need; I imagine they'd sell just the front bushings if asked.

Thanks. I assume the "it" in the bolded portion means running with the washers made the clunk more pronounced?

So I guess you have all the tools to cut and drill a hockey puck, but you don't have a wrench or two to tighten the bolts?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

yes sir!

isis

iTrader: (1)

This is better than starting a new thread? Lol