Revshift install
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Destin, Fl
Revshift install Well my parts finally came in and I have off all day tomorrow. Going to start off with my MM's and trans insert. Then, maybe depending on how long that takes I might go ahead and tackle the rear end with the cradle, diff, and trailing arm bushings.
Any help or pointers will be greatly appreciated!!
Any help or pointers will be greatly appreciated!!
sawzall is by far the cleanest and easiest. Just cut out the rubber and then the metal ring. I used just a hand held propane torch and heated up the outside of each sleeve good and hot then beat out the rubber. After words I used an air hammer to get out the ring. If you plan on using a torch there are a couple of things I cannot stress enough, gloves hot sticky rubber does not come off-along with clothes. A WELL VENTILLATED AREA! The smoke will be plentiful. Once they are out people said they tapped them in....yeah...I couldnt. So I used a large C clamp and essentially pressed them in. Went in like butter. Trailing arms are the same story, and I neved did the diff. Good luck!
* I also did this with the diff out of the car and lowered the cradle to the floor with out disconnecting any brake lines. I had it all apart!
* I also did this with the diff out of the car and lowered the cradle to the floor with out disconnecting any brake lines. I had it all apart!
I did not use a cclamp for the bushings however i bet it works great. I pressed them in a little by hand then a couple wacks with a rubber mallet and in they slid. If I couldnt get it completely in (the top halfs) I found it was close enough to use the bolt with washer to press them in. In terms of removal I drilled around the rubber then sawzalled around the center sleeve. After that I was able to sawzall the outer sleeve then air hammer the ring. Plenty of lube and it slid right out.
I will be tackling motor mounts next as well. I am hoping it goes pretty smooth as im still stock headers.
I will be tackling motor mounts next as well. I am hoping it goes pretty smooth as im still stock headers.
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 818
Likes: 2
From: heading South East on Bakalakadaka street
Revshift trans mount:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...nt-review.html
Revshift cradle bushings:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...all/index.html
Follow the words, not the pictures for the cradle bushing. Don't remove the whole bushing or remove the bolts, just loosen it so you have space to play around, otherwise, you'll be under there trying to re-align ****. LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...nt-review.html
Revshift cradle bushings:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...all/index.html
Follow the words, not the pictures for the cradle bushing. Don't remove the whole bushing or remove the bolts, just loosen it so you have space to play around, otherwise, you'll be under there trying to re-align ****. LOL
Revshift trans mount:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...nt-review.html
Revshift cradle bushings:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...all/index.html
Follow the words, not the pictures for the cradle bushing. Don't remove the whole bushing or remove the bolts, just loosen it so you have space to play around, otherwise, you'll be under there trying to re-align ****. LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...nt-review.html
Revshift cradle bushings:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...all/index.html
Follow the words, not the pictures for the cradle bushing. Don't remove the whole bushing or remove the bolts, just loosen it so you have space to play around, otherwise, you'll be under there trying to re-align ****. LOL
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Trailing arm bushings come right out with a two jaw puller.
Good luck!
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: SE Mich
That's pretty awesome. I went the sawzall route for the sub-frame bushings...make sure you use a corded sawzall, and use a very rough tooth blade (wood is okay, I used a pruning blade) as it gets through the rubber faster without clogging. After that, use a metal sawzall blade to cut one line through the length of the metal bushing body and it'll damn near drop out.
Trailing arm bushings come right out with a two jaw puller.
Good luck!
Trailing arm bushings come right out with a two jaw puller.
Good luck!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
I took it all the way down...I am fortunate to have a lift and pulled the fuel tank at the same time to install a DW300. If you use the sawzall, I found it to be easier to access from the top...and I did try from the bottom since the subframe was on jack stand's.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Destin, Fl
Well, MM's and trans insert is installed..
Sorry I didn't take any pictures. The MM install went really smooth, I watched the video CS put on Youtube. Which knowing the proper extensions and the right size sockets right up front always helps speed up the install. Also after I pulled out the old MM's I noticed they looked new. After looking at the warranty sheet from when I bought the car I noticed at 72k they were changed, but I did notice a change. Barely any "diesel shut-down" and the car feels to have more raw power.
As for the trans insert. It was a bit tricky, but between wd-40, soapy water, hammer, pry bars, and a c-clamp it finally popped into place "without removing cat-back". My only concern was when I was wedging the insert in a few small pieces of rubber from the oem trans mount cracked and fell out??
Sunday I will be installing the cradle, diff, and trailing arm bushings. Out of everyone who has done both mm/trans insert and the rear end bushing swap what do you think would be considered the easier install?
Sorry I didn't take any pictures. The MM install went really smooth, I watched the video CS put on Youtube. Which knowing the proper extensions and the right size sockets right up front always helps speed up the install. Also after I pulled out the old MM's I noticed they looked new. After looking at the warranty sheet from when I bought the car I noticed at 72k they were changed, but I did notice a change. Barely any "diesel shut-down" and the car feels to have more raw power.
As for the trans insert. It was a bit tricky, but between wd-40, soapy water, hammer, pry bars, and a c-clamp it finally popped into place "without removing cat-back". My only concern was when I was wedging the insert in a few small pieces of rubber from the oem trans mount cracked and fell out??
Sunday I will be installing the cradle, diff, and trailing arm bushings. Out of everyone who has done both mm/trans insert and the rear end bushing swap what do you think would be considered the easier install?
Last edited by impulse27297; Jan 17, 2013 at 08:23 AM.
You will have to remove the exhaust to do the diff bushing and cradle bushings....so I would say the MM were easier for me. Especially since I had the exhaust off for them before installing headers.
I would Say MM are probably the hardest simply due to space constraints then rear cradle bushings and trailing arms.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Destin, Fl
I would tend to think MM would be easier then rear cradle just because of the time and patience it takes to do the rear cradle bushings. It is non stop drilling and cutting and pulling and drilling and cutting and pulling. Then you need to press them in. Granted I have yet to do the MM doing them soon but, i have a strong feeling they will be much easier for me. I have a lift in my garage though so things always are a little different for me.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
I'm doing the Diff Bushing install either this weekend, or Tuesday. I've had the MM and Trans insert installed for a while now. Vast improvement! I will also be installing my new GForce 2-Piece Driveshaft so I can get rid of that infernal screeching center bearing! Clutch install shortly after.