johnking3194

Sounds like your having the same problem as me... do you think it would have something to do with the brake lines or there is just a lot of air in the system

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

After reading all these brake problem threads surrounding goodridge lines....The way i intend to install them is one at a time. Starting with LR, install, bleed. RR Install, bleed. RF etc etc. Then, you guessed it, Beed it all again! Never let the master even get close to dry!

Good luck OP!

Sweetwilliebrownjr

I have no doubt there's problems with the hydraulics, but just because a booster is working doesn't mean it's fine. A hissing when you hit the brakes coming from the pedal, is almost necessarily a sign of a leak from the booster. The booster has vacuum going to it, and a breach in the diaphragm can cause the hiss. It might last a while, or it may go out when you're doing 70mph and trying to stop to avoid hitting the guy that slammed on the brakes in front of you. I never said it had anything to do with the pedal going to the floor, or that it would fix that problem. I just figured I'd pass on some good info. Don't mislead people on brake issues when you apparently have no clue what you're saying.

All that said, I can't hear the noise he's speaking of, so for all I know, there could be brake fairies down there hissing because they're tired of helping him push the brakes after so much bleeding.

NoChrome

iTrader: (3)

Every set of power brakes I've ever used makes a slight hiss when you initially step on the pedal. Both sides of the diaphragm are under vacuum before you step on the pedal once you depress the pedal a valve opens and you can hear a hiss of air rushing into the cabin side of the diaphragm using ambient air pressure on one side and vacuum on the other to help force the pedal to the floor.

Is this not how a vacuum booster works?

Sweetwilliebrownjr

Once again, I can't hear the noise myself. Why would he mention the noise if it had always done it? I've replaced quite a few on customers cars for this problem. I guess there's no possibility of me being right. I concede.

NoChrome

iTrader: (3)

Your acting like I was being immature or rude when you make comments like this one?


Is it possible the booster is bad, sure, but if the pedal is hard to push down and the motor is not running lean, I would say its unlikely. I will gladly accept your concession of defeat though.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

fn goodridge... Who has goodridge and DOESNT have issues? I'm just curious..

I had my wheels off the other day and noticed the LR line had dirt coating on it similar to a coil spring that gets oil on it...but couldn't see any visible leak.

I might replace all my crush washers.. that might help.

My pedal has gotten much softer in just the past week so it's time to bleed. again.*sigh*. I remember when I could breathe on the pedal and it was like a brick wall...



as far as the sound everyone is talking about, I certainly hear the standard 'whoosh' or 'shhh' as I press my pedal right now...not so much a hiss you'd hear from a leaky booster though. Everyone might be talking about the same thing here...plus wouldn't a leaky booster create a stiff pedal?


As a benchmark of air in the system, once you turn the car off, how many times can you guys press the pedal before it gets firm? I'm up to about 15 good strokes.

When I'm driving I don't get any pedal until about halfway down.


if it's firm like good brakes should be and you aren't stopping, especially in the V, I'd call that a shot booster...even though it's a rare failure.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I would just return them all at once...

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I think some people don't start listening until there's a problem...then sounds that have always been there become the "issue"

NoChrome

iTrader: (3)

How are you bleeding the brakes? Are you doing it two man style, one under the car one in, tube in a coke can, or are you using a break bleeding tool?

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I've done it all. Pressure,vacuum,and 2 man.

NoChrome

iTrader: (3)

That was for johnking3194, but are yours acting up too?

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

Johnking3194, are the caliper bleeders on the top or bottom?

johnking3194

The bleeders are on top of the caliper and now I'm confused do i have a bad booster or not or just a leak some where keep in mind the pedal is really stiff with the car off but when the car is on and booster is working the pedal goes straight to the floor and the only way I get pressure is by pumping the brakes 5 or 6 times and I lose the pressure rather quickly and if I don't pump the brakes and I just slam the pedal to the floor I barely stop

Sweetwilliebrownjr

The booster won't cause a loss of pressure. If your losing pressure while holding the pedal down, something's bypassing (master cylinder or abs unit), or something's leaking. Pull the boots back from the caliper pistons, and check if it may be leaking but not making it past the dust boots. Another thing to check would be the rear of the master cylinder. Sometimes they'll leak into the booster, and you'll never see it.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0101-Pr.../dp/B000TYJEWW

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

those hooks are the key... I made my own using a garden sprayer and a tire gauge.. but I use c clamps to hold it down. works like a charm but doesn't get the air out.

my next rig is going to be a retrofit of my mityvac.... I'm gonna hook up my shop vac to the line in place of the hand pump....

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

I only had one problem with the install, but once I got that sorted out they work great. My pedal is almost too touchy! Buy some rubber vacuum caps at the parts store and as soon as you take the rubber line off, cap the hard line so you don't lose any fluid. I never let my master get anywhere close to dry and bled them according to the Faq.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Me too and it was my fault.

johnking3194

See I let my master go completely dry for almost a week and a half I think the seals are bad in there soo I prob need a new master but who knows...