Blacked out
03-15-2013, 10:26 AM
#21
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Mine is blacked out as well, I used VHT on my tail lights the first time, but over time it'll fade due to the sun and washing it. I eventually got them done in a shop and smoked the front's a little, I love it! I blacked out the chrome on the emblem and wreath...turned out nice.
03-15-2013, 11:15 AM
#22
Mine is blacked out as well, I used VHT on my tail lights the first time, but over time it'll fade due to the sun and washing it. I eventually got them done in a shop and smoked the front's a little, I love it! I blacked out the chrome on the emblem and wreath...turned out nice.
I stopped using the VHT after my reverse lights, and started using rustoleum spray tint. The VHT gave a gay purplely tint, if you look in the OP's pictures you can see what I'm talking about. The rustoleum does not, and actually stays black/smoke color. The VHT with enough coats will look black, but then you start to loose the transparency of it so....
Here is the stuff I use. I get it from autozone.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=416
03-15-2013, 11:22 AM
#23
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Did you clear over the VHT nightshades? If you do not clear them they will fade and look like crap quickly. With a good clear coating job they will look good for along time.
I stopped using the VHT after my reverse lights, and started using rustoleum spray tint. The VHT gave a gay purplely tint, if you look in the OP's pictures you can see what I'm talking about. The rustoleum does not, and actually stays black/smoke color. The VHT with enough coats will look black, but then you start to loose the transparency of it so....
Here is the stuff I use. I get it from autozone.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=416
I stopped using the VHT after my reverse lights, and started using rustoleum spray tint. The VHT gave a gay purplely tint, if you look in the OP's pictures you can see what I'm talking about. The rustoleum does not, and actually stays black/smoke color. The VHT with enough coats will look black, but then you start to loose the transparency of it so....
Here is the stuff I use. I get it from autozone.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=416
I'm about to do my parking lamps and was going to buy some VHT but I think I'll give this a try.
Same process with this as applying VHT?
03-15-2013, 11:34 AM
#24
Yup. Same thing. The process should not change for painting any thing really.
1. Get a good surface profile (sand).
2. Clean with a good wax/tar remover.
3. Paint. With the spray tint distance is everything. If you are trying to black it out, not so much. But for just the smoked look you want to be far away from the part just misting it for a couple of light coats. Cover till desired transparency.
4. Clear. I always use several coats of clear so that i do not burn through it on the next steps.
5. wet sand the clear with 1500 or 2000 grit. (must give atleast 24-48hours for clear to dry/harden before any sanding!)
6. Buff with rubbing compound.
7. Buff with polishing compund
8. wax
9. marvel at your work.
10. crack a beer.
Tips, do not do it in the rain or high humidity day. Do not spray below 60 degrees. Follow all manufactures specs for dry/tack times and between coat times. Lastly, with spary tint I always! let it dry ( for a min of 1 hour) before applying clear coat. If you do not give it this time the clear will mix with the tint (as the tint is just clear and black paint 50/50ed) and cause it to screw up the tint. I could post pictures of this exact event but I'm lazy.
This is my method for painting everything. I'm no pro but this has not let me down yet.
1. Get a good surface profile (sand).
2. Clean with a good wax/tar remover.
3. Paint. With the spray tint distance is everything. If you are trying to black it out, not so much. But for just the smoked look you want to be far away from the part just misting it for a couple of light coats. Cover till desired transparency.
4. Clear. I always use several coats of clear so that i do not burn through it on the next steps.
5. wet sand the clear with 1500 or 2000 grit. (must give atleast 24-48hours for clear to dry/harden before any sanding!)
6. Buff with rubbing compound.
7. Buff with polishing compund
8. wax
9. marvel at your work.
10. crack a beer.
Tips, do not do it in the rain or high humidity day. Do not spray below 60 degrees. Follow all manufactures specs for dry/tack times and between coat times. Lastly, with spary tint I always! let it dry ( for a min of 1 hour) before applying clear coat. If you do not give it this time the clear will mix with the tint (as the tint is just clear and black paint 50/50ed) and cause it to screw up the tint. I could post pictures of this exact event but I'm lazy.
This is my method for painting everything. I'm no pro but this has not let me down yet.
03-15-2013, 11:41 AM
#25
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Yup. Same thing. The process should not change for painting any thing really.
1. Get a good surface profile (sand).
2. Clean with a good wax/tar remover.
3. Paint. With the spray tint distance is everything. If you are trying to black it out, not so much. But for just the smoked look you want to be far away from the part just misting it for a couple of light coats. Cover till desired transparency.
4. Clear. I always use several coats of clear so that i do not burn through it on the next steps.
5. wet sand the clear with 1500 or 2000 grit. (must give atleast 24-48hours for clear to dry/harden before any sanding!)
6. Buff with rubbing compound.
7. Buff with polishing compund
8. wax
9. marvel at your work.
10. crack a beer.
Tips, do not do it in the rain or high humidity day. Do not spray below 60 degrees. Follow all manufactures specs for dry/tack times and between coat times. Lastly, with spary tint I always! let it dry ( for a min of 1 hour) before applying clear coat. If you do not give it this time the clear will mix with the tint (as the tint is just clear and black paint 50/50ed) and cause it to screw up the tint. I could post pictures of this exact event but I'm lazy.
This is my method for painting everything. I'm no pro but this has not let me down yet.
1. Get a good surface profile (sand).
2. Clean with a good wax/tar remover.
3. Paint. With the spray tint distance is everything. If you are trying to black it out, not so much. But for just the smoked look you want to be far away from the part just misting it for a couple of light coats. Cover till desired transparency.
4. Clear. I always use several coats of clear so that i do not burn through it on the next steps.
5. wet sand the clear with 1500 or 2000 grit. (must give atleast 24-48hours for clear to dry/harden before any sanding!)
6. Buff with rubbing compound.
7. Buff with polishing compund
8. wax
9. marvel at your work.
10. crack a beer.
Tips, do not do it in the rain or high humidity day. Do not spray below 60 degrees. Follow all manufactures specs for dry/tack times and between coat times. Lastly, with spary tint I always! let it dry ( for a min of 1 hour) before applying clear coat. If you do not give it this time the clear will mix with the tint (as the tint is just clear and black paint 50/50ed) and cause it to screw up the tint. I could post pictures of this exact event but I'm lazy.
This is my method for painting everything. I'm no pro but this has not let me down yet.
03-15-2013, 05:09 PM
#26
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https://creative-steel.com/store/ind...ct_detail&p=38
Ive got one and its a real quality piece. Its not cheap but it keeps the look of the car clean. I havent put it on yet though because im waiting to do a couple other things at the same time in that lower grill area.
