punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

agreed, there are even vids on youtube that show almost an inch of deflection when under acceleration.

its all the damned rubber they put in this car...that said im going with revshifts red cradle and trailing arm mounts..

DSS i have nothing but good things to say about the drive shaft and axles..but open the holes on the carrier bearing bracket where it mounts to the unibody

Skidmarcx

The axles didn't do **** for wheel hop... I will say that the DSS axles hold up to some abuse because my first outing after the Ford conversion was far from pretty... Car was tap dancing like a ****

runsfromdacops

the kit fixed my wheel hop. but i think redoing the the drag link with a spherical baring and doing all the bushing with 95a stuff helped alot to

B_ROCKS_IT

Your saying the axles in the CS 8.8 kit are? I'm guessing then that they are your axles which you provide for the CS kit?

Driveshaft Shop

Correct, Max wanted to give you good parts. it seems like a nice set up

Skidmarcx

Yea all that stuff does make a huge difference... Ill end up doing the CA bushings and trailing arms during summer if I keep the car

DMM

I have the CS 8.8" kit with the upgraded stubs and a rear girdle cover. Also have the RevShift cradle and trailing arm bushings and the wheelhop is gone.

The 8.8" probably has geometry problems as well IMO. Mine has a severe vibration from 1500-1700 in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears which usually indicates a driveline misalignment somewhere.

If you're going with an 8.8", I'd be sure to use an iron case.

runsfromdacops

idk i have the alum case 8.8 and all is good with mine. you could go iron if you want but i see no need as these cars a very tire size limited. youd have to spend some big $$ the fit a big enough tire under the car to take out the diff.

i do agree that the upgrade cv outers are a good call as it will save you some work to swap your stokers on.

B_ROCKS_IT

285 at the most, plenty of people under 10's on 245's, so I think 285 should be plent

Skidmarcx

I have NT05R 285s... They're a little wide for an 8.5" wheel, but they work well... I think ill check out either the M&H 275/45 for more sidewall or the M/T 265/40 since I believe to be the stickiest when I change them out

runsfromdacops

im on the 275/45/18 M&Hs and love them

B_ROCKS_IT

So I am guessing your on the radials then? I was just checking out their site and they dont seem to make anything bigger than a 16" for their Street/strip tire...

If you are on the DR's how is wear going, assuming you do a fair amount of street driving?

B_ROCKS_IT

do you get any vibrations anywhere from your 8.8?

Skidmarcx

Mine vibrates around 75 MPH... Not too bad though... I dropped the carrier bracket about 3/16" which helped a bunch... I think all the solid couplings will add vibration of some sort

shadyLS6

/\ shimmed out the center DS bearing. my intermitent DS vib has gone away.. dont know what to make of that.. i get chatter now not really wheel hop when i drop the clutch low. but i can do 4k or 3k drops on street tires all day and just light them up.. no chatter no wheel hop.. makes me smile everytime

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I shimmed out the Carrier with many different spacings on the 9" DS form those other guys and was able to reduce beading and phasing, but it still had a vibration at about 70ish.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

1000+rwhp is solid rear territory for dependability. I know there are some IRS setups that will take the abuse but you will never build one that will be as reliable as a solid rear with some 33-35 spline axles.

You may not be getting hop on the street right now but the minute you try and launch that car on a prepped track I promise you that you will be amazed how bad it is. Mine would hop so bad at the track that the Service Stability System light would come on and the warning screen would pop up on the NAV.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

1. its cool to see DSS come in here and mentioned that about their axles.
2. There are many fast IRS cars would there that make tons of power and manage to get some fast times. No reason to also tell people to go with a solid rear.

runsfromdacops

i think the bushings that are in the rear or these cars is atlest 70% of the problem for wheel hop. tightin up the rear cradle, upper and lower arms, shock mounts and get some good shocks and would guess it would be all gone.

most people on here blame the diff when it has almost nothing to do with it.the diff plays a role it wheel hop but is not even close to the main cause.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I gave my opinion to one guy who is aiming for 9 second passes with 1000+rwhp in a 4k pound manual car. For what he will throw at a capable IRS setup he could have a bulletproof SRA with top notch suspension.