CS 8.8, Wheel hop fixed? Max torque capability?
#41
TECH Fanatic
Sticky tires probably won't make anything worse. In '06 when the C6 Z06 came out there were guys gernading diffs from wheel hop at the track. The only ones that didn't pop had drag radials. So it may not be too bad.
BTW - tried to shim CB support and crossmember with no change in the vibration. I have the RevShift trans thingy and wish I didn't at this point since I can't get the damn thing out. I have no vibrations at any speed, only 1500-1700 RPM in 4th gear. Hope I find something when I open the trans up.
BTW - tried to shim CB support and crossmember with no change in the vibration. I have the RevShift trans thingy and wish I didn't at this point since I can't get the damn thing out. I have no vibrations at any speed, only 1500-1700 RPM in 4th gear. Hope I find something when I open the trans up.
#42
BTW - tried to shim CB support and crossmember with no change in the vibration. I have the RevShift trans thingy and wish I didn't at this point since I can't get the damn thing out. I have no vibrations at any speed, only 1500-1700 RPM in 4th gear. Hope I find something when I open the trans up.
#43
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Join Date: May 2011
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Sticky tires probably won't make anything worse. In '06 when the C6 Z06 came out there were guys gernading diffs from wheel hop at the track. The only ones that didn't pop had drag radials. So it may not be too bad.
BTW - tried to shim CB support and crossmember with no change in the vibration. I have the RevShift trans thingy and wish I didn't at this point since I can't get the damn thing out. I have no vibrations at any speed, only 1500-1700 RPM in 4th gear. Hope I find something when I open the trans up.
BTW - tried to shim CB support and crossmember with no change in the vibration. I have the RevShift trans thingy and wish I didn't at this point since I can't get the damn thing out. I have no vibrations at any speed, only 1500-1700 RPM in 4th gear. Hope I find something when I open the trans up.
i think the bushings that are in the rear or these cars is atlest 70% of the problem for wheel hop. tightin up the rear cradle, upper and lower arms, shock mounts and get some good shocks and would guess it would be all gone.
most people on here blame the diff when it has almost nothing to do with it.the diff plays a role it wheel hop but is not even close to the main cause.
most people on here blame the diff when it has almost nothing to do with it.the diff plays a role it wheel hop but is not even close to the main cause.
1000+rwhp is solid rear territory for dependability. I know there are some IRS setups that will take the abuse but you will never build one that will be as reliable as a solid rear with some 33-35 spline axles.
You may not be getting hop on the street right now but the minute you try and launch that car on a prepped track I promise you that you will be amazed how bad it is. Mine would hop so bad at the track that the Service Stability System light would come on and the warning screen would pop up on the NAV.
You may not be getting hop on the street right now but the minute you try and launch that car on a prepped track I promise you that you will be amazed how bad it is. Mine would hop so bad at the track that the Service Stability System light would come on and the warning screen would pop up on the NAV.
#44
I'm just going to mention that torque transients are the killer, not steady-state power. Granted, the higher your RWHP rating, the greater the torque transients you'll be able to generate.
#46
11 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Very well put!
B-rocks at the 1000hp mark, most companies warranties are void. That said, 1000hp wheel hop will destroy just about anything. With the before and after of the 8.8 wheel hop still existed for me. After I did the revshift cradle bushings wheel hop is almost non existent, but it still happens in wet conditions. So for yourself I would reccomend going with a solid cradle mount and dont mess with the bushings like was said earlier.
As for the 8.8 or 9", for me its money. There is a 2k price difference between the two, and I have seen no one break either in a V. Or break either anywhere that I have found yet. I know plenty of drag racers have done it (broke both kinds) but they did not post pictures or write stories about it online.
So basically what I'm trying to say is a 4000lbs car+1000hp+drag launch at 4k rpm or more=big $. Repeated beatings, somethign always breaks.
Also, after you beef up the rear, the cluitch is the next weakest point, then let says you put in a 1000 rxt twin disk then the trans will be the 1st to pop. and so the story goes on. Build it all up, spend a but load of money, and expect it to last forever while beating on it? Good luck!
As for the 8.8 or 9", for me its money. There is a 2k price difference between the two, and I have seen no one break either in a V. Or break either anywhere that I have found yet. I know plenty of drag racers have done it (broke both kinds) but they did not post pictures or write stories about it online.
So basically what I'm trying to say is a 4000lbs car+1000hp+drag launch at 4k rpm or more=big $. Repeated beatings, somethign always breaks.
Also, after you beef up the rear, the cluitch is the next weakest point, then let says you put in a 1000 rxt twin disk then the trans will be the 1st to pop. and so the story goes on. Build it all up, spend a but load of money, and expect it to last forever while beating on it? Good luck!