LS7 clutch install gone wrong, need help.
06-28-2013, 07:59 PM
#23
06-28-2013, 08:57 PM
#24
TECH Fanatic
06-29-2013, 10:49 AM
#25
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
NAPA, CarQuest and the Chevy dealership all wanted in excess of $260, NAPA wanting nearly $400.
It was already in my mouth, I might as well swallow, right?
07-02-2013, 04:32 PM
#26
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Well, got my Slave in today. Going to try it once again. Tempted to pick up a new alignment tool to make sure my disc stays centered, and gonna try the mityvac again to bleed.
07-02-2013, 07:57 PM
#27
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
I am about ready to mate the transmission back up to the engine, I just wanna make sure that this gap between the pressure plate and flywheel is normal; there's maybe <1mm gap, but it's torqued to 52ft-lbs (I checked twice) with red loctite.
I might just be over-analyzing everything since it's been such a pain, but humor me ...
I might just be over-analyzing everything since it's been such a pain, but humor me ...
07-02-2013, 08:51 PM
#29
The pressure plate is pinned into position and should not have a gap between it and the flat it rests on.
That does not look right.
I know you probably already did, but what did it look like without the clutch disc in-between?
Did it (the pressure plate) rest on the flats at the pin locations??
Remember when you are tightening the bolts, you are fighting spring tension the pressure plate applies against the disc.
The pressure plate has to sit on the flats as that keeps it from wobbling.
That does not look right.
I know you probably already did, but what did it look like without the clutch disc in-between?
Did it (the pressure plate) rest on the flats at the pin locations??
Remember when you are tightening the bolts, you are fighting spring tension the pressure plate applies against the disc.
The pressure plate has to sit on the flats as that keeps it from wobbling.
Last edited by heavymetals; 07-02-2013 at 09:00 PM.
07-02-2013, 10:24 PM
#31
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
The pressure plate is pinned into position and should not have a gap between it and the flat it rests on.
That does not look right.
I know you probably already did, but what did it look like without the clutch disc in-between?
Did it (the pressure plate) rest on the flats at the pin locations??
Remember when you are tightening the bolts, you are fighting spring tension the pressure plate applies against the disc.
The pressure plate has to sit on the flats as that keeps it from wobbling.
That does not look right.
I know you probably already did, but what did it look like without the clutch disc in-between?
Did it (the pressure plate) rest on the flats at the pin locations??
Remember when you are tightening the bolts, you are fighting spring tension the pressure plate applies against the disc.
The pressure plate has to sit on the flats as that keeps it from wobbling.
I hope this is all worth it in the end ....
07-02-2013, 10:33 PM
#32
TECH Enthusiast
Did you get new hardware with your kit?
A lot of times when people buy the cheap kits or piece one together, they don't realize they need new bolts to go with the whole shebang....
07-02-2013, 10:34 PM
#33
TECH Enthusiast
i'm proud to report that i did try the pressure plate without the clutch between it and the flywheel; still have the same amount of gap between the two.
This is going to be the fastest solution. Bolts are definitely too long. I considered doubling up on washers or drilling out the flywheel holes, but both seem a bit more involved.
I hope this is all worth it in the end ....
This is going to be the fastest solution. Bolts are definitely too long. I considered doubling up on washers or drilling out the flywheel holes, but both seem a bit more involved.
I hope this is all worth it in the end ....
no.
No.
07-02-2013, 11:04 PM
#34
TECH Enthusiast
If you look at this clutch kit, it INCLUDES Flywheel and pressure plate bolts.
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ls...-applications/
Maybe you should call someone that knows what they're doing over and see what the problem is...
DON'T shim that stuff. DON'T add spacers. DON'T drill out those holes.
Next thing we'll see you on here because something grenade in your bell housing.
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ls...-applications/
Maybe you should call someone that knows what they're doing over and see what the problem is...
DON'T shim that stuff. DON'T add spacers. DON'T drill out those holes.
Next thing we'll see you on here because something grenade in your bell housing.
07-02-2013, 11:46 PM
#35
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
I bought a complete flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave package from Gripforce. The aforementioned bolts are the only components I purchased separately.
07-03-2013, 01:33 AM
#36
I bought new ARP bolts using part numbers in another members thread. They were advertised as ls1/ls6 according to ARP.
I bought a complete flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave package from Gripforce. The aforementioned bolts are the only components I purchased separately.
I bought a complete flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave package from Gripforce. The aforementioned bolts are the only components I purchased separately.
You should be able to mount the pressure plate without the clutch plate and have it sit on the flats without the bolts going through the flywheel.
Here is a pic of a normal clutch:
http://www.mooregoodink.com/news/wp-...orce95-web.jpg
Notice how they spacer the bolts (BLAH!) and how the pressure plate sits on the flats.
If I understand you correctly, the ARP bolts are to long and bottomed out and that is what you were torquing against, not applying mating force to the pressure plate against the flywheel.
OOOPS!
Last edited by heavymetals; 07-03-2013 at 01:48 AM.
07-03-2013, 05:59 AM
#37
I shortened my new OEM pressure plate bolts when I installed my LS7 clutch and ran it for 20,000 miles. There's absolutely nothing wrong with knocking a couple of threads off the bolts, provided that you measure twice and cut once to ensure that you have full thread engagement.
07-03-2013, 12:05 PM
#39
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Gripforce didn't supply any bolts with the clutch, flywheel, pp, slave kit. I was advised to buy the ARP's, which I did.
Anyone know if the factory ones are any shorter?
07-03-2013, 12:20 PM
#40
Do you have a dial caliper?
Insert the bolt till it bottoms out and measure that length.
Measure the thickness of the pressure plate (probably .225" or near).
Add the two.
Subtract about .075" and that will be very close to the length you need.
You didn't answer my ?.
Were you torquing against the bottom out?
If so, the problem you are having is you bought hardware for the OEM flywheel thickness and usually the replacement flywheels are thinner in the mount area, ergo the bottom out.
Better then going through and jamming the flywheel against the block!
Insert the bolt till it bottoms out and measure that length.
Measure the thickness of the pressure plate (probably .225" or near).
Add the two.
Subtract about .075" and that will be very close to the length you need.
You didn't answer my ?.
Were you torquing against the bottom out?
If so, the problem you are having is you bought hardware for the OEM flywheel thickness and usually the replacement flywheels are thinner in the mount area, ergo the bottom out.
Better then going through and jamming the flywheel against the block!