Header Studs
#2
Just reuse the stock bolts. I've done headers on a few LSx cars and have always reused the stock ones with no issues. Also get some new gm gaskets, don't use the stuff that comes with the headers.
#6
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I think the ones I used are ARP 434-1301
Although looking back, i'm sure you can get away with stock bolts and loctite, assuming none of yours break in there and need to be bolthead-welded out.
Although looking back, i'm sure you can get away with stock bolts and loctite, assuming none of yours break in there and need to be bolthead-welded out.
#7
Header studs are overkill, MLS gaskets seal very well and only need 18-20 ft lbs of torque. No lock-tite is needed, heat+dissimilar metals will keep them in place and is what causes the bolts to break in the first place. I have always used aluminum anti-seize on the bolt threads and never had an issue.
One last thing...to make it easy, trim the MLS gaskets at both ends, at the bottom of the first and last bolt hole using snips, so they will slide down onto the bolts. I have always started the first and last bolts (at opposite ends of the head) so the header is hanging there by two bolts, then the gasket with the trimmed bolt holes will slide down over the two bolts at either end that are holding the header. Makes things SOOOO much easier than trying to start the bolts while holding the header and gasket in place.
One last thing...to make it easy, trim the MLS gaskets at both ends, at the bottom of the first and last bolt hole using snips, so they will slide down onto the bolts. I have always started the first and last bolts (at opposite ends of the head) so the header is hanging there by two bolts, then the gasket with the trimmed bolt holes will slide down over the two bolts at either end that are holding the header. Makes things SOOOO much easier than trying to start the bolts while holding the header and gasket in place.
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#8
Header studs make install way way easier but thats about the extent of the benefits. I also had bad luck with stock mls gaskets and wound up replacing them with Fel Pros which were the only ones that would seal.
#9
Good luck!
#12
Truck manifolds tend to break stock bolts after 100k or so. Not sure if it's from expansion or corrosion. I replace them with ARP stainless bolts, they are much cheaper than the studs.
3/8" header flange bolts are part number 771-1002
1/2" header flange bolts are part number 771-1003
3/8" header flange bolts are part number 771-1002
1/2" header flange bolts are part number 771-1003
#13
This ^^
It does make installation easier as you can hang the gasket then hand the header.
I used 12pt. - 10mm.
ARP calls not to use any anti-seize or lock 242 or red, you hand thread (tighten) the stud dry. Used stock gaskets.
Then two rounds of TQ.
First pass (start in Middle two, then hop to each side going outwards) - 132 Inch/pounds.
Final Pass (same process) - 216 inch lbs. (I believe its officially 18lbs)
It does make installation easier as you can hang the gasket then hand the header.
I used 12pt. - 10mm.
ARP calls not to use any anti-seize or lock 242 or red, you hand thread (tighten) the stud dry. Used stock gaskets.
Then two rounds of TQ.
First pass (start in Middle two, then hop to each side going outwards) - 132 Inch/pounds.
Final Pass (same process) - 216 inch lbs. (I believe its officially 18lbs)
Last edited by vmapper; 08-01-2013 at 09:51 AM. Reason: Final Pass is 216 in after checking notes.
#14
I remember the torque on my header studs being like 8-10-12 foot pounds (memory may be slightly off), so on par with Vmapper. I dont remember where I found this info, but they had me torque them in 2-3 stages cold, then when the motor was hot, and then once it was cold again. I have had zero issues in 10k miles since then. i put a wrench on them occasionally just to check, and no problems
#15
I used Stage 8 locking bolts. I found my pass rear bolt head snapped off. Thankfully it came out cleaning with vice grips. So, had to buy something and I like using new hardware. For as many motor mount failures there have been, use new hardware.
And agree with GM gaskets, and cutting the ends open to just slide it down on the outer bolts....so much easier than trying to align layers and getting bolts started in a tight area.
And agree with GM gaskets, and cutting the ends open to just slide it down on the outer bolts....so much easier than trying to align layers and getting bolts started in a tight area.
#16
I like the studs simply for the ease of installation. You might find if you put all 6 studs in that it's hard to get the manifold/header on. I generally install the rear ones that are harder to get to, and then the front one. After putting the header on I'll thread in the other studs.
An added benefit is they don't actually get tightened in the block like a bolt, so they never get stuck and risk getting broken off like a stock bolt.
The downfall is the price. I keep them here though, and will help you guys on price all I can. I can generally beat any prices you can find online, just hit me up and I'll do what I can.
An added benefit is they don't actually get tightened in the block like a bolt, so they never get stuck and risk getting broken off like a stock bolt.
The downfall is the price. I keep them here though, and will help you guys on price all I can. I can generally beat any prices you can find online, just hit me up and I'll do what I can.
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#17
I use the ARP studs on both my cars.
However, after losing a few 12 points (they ain't cheap to replace) I started using these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-Exhaust-Lock-Nut-Copper-Plated-Steel-12mmHex-/400178033051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2c78319b&vxp=mtr
Much better!
They are 12 mm however.
However, after losing a few 12 points (they ain't cheap to replace) I started using these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-Exhaust-Lock-Nut-Copper-Plated-Steel-12mmHex-/400178033051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2c78319b&vxp=mtr
Much better!
They are 12 mm however.