Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Taking off the bolts, I get to the last one on the passenger rear. I see it sticking out and thought it was odd since i didnt loosen it, then it just dropped out. So it broke off without being turned



Ideas on getting the rest out? They are on pretty loose i was thinking about trying some jb weld or something. I dont have a welder here.

brack86svo

Is the broken part flush with head, or sticking out? JB Weld is not going to work. Welding a nut on to it is two fold - gives you a nut to turn, and heats the bolt to help remove it. JB won't bond well enough to turn it out.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

if it is broken near the exit, you could dremel a straight cut into the head and use a screw driver to back it out

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

It's kind of near the face of the head. The problem is trying to get to it since its all the way in the rear. Has anyone had luck using those extractors you use with a drill? Not sure I can even get it in there though...

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

That is a very tight fit and you need a rt. angle drill.

MOD HELL.

Do it right, remove the head.

Now you know why beer was invented.

Redchevyman

iTrader: (4)

If you can drill a 1/8" hole in the bolt you can hammer a torq bit into it and back it out. I had two broken bolts on the 5.3 I bought from the junk yard. Hopefully you will have room to drill.

Redchevyman

iTrader: (4)

Harbor freight has cheap right angle drills if you need one.

Redchevyman

iTrader: (4)

Item 92956 is 29.99 or you can use right angle attachment on your drill for $15 Item #69337

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

I searched a bit more. Everyone says use a welder. Maybe I can see if I can get a mobile welder to do it. There's really no room to work though.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Good luck.

They will have to be a contortionist too.

That last rear bolt is a SOB.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I had the same issue last week.

Used a right angle drill to drill a 1/8" hole so I could use an easy out. broke the easy out.

It's my DD, so I put it back together and made sure to torque the headers down evenly and in a good sequence.

Fortunately, no leak, but the head will have to be pulled eventually.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

This happened to me on the driver side though. Drilled, broke an EZ out etc. At the time it was my DD so I just bolted it back up - no leak.

If it's stubborn, then you gotta pull the heads. You booger it up too much...new heads or machine shop.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Luckily I have another dd. I work with a lot of good welders so I'm going to see if they can help me out. Pretty bummed though was trying to get the car prepped for the meet in so cal next weekend. With my schedule I won't be able to get it done in time unless I just keep going and worry about it later. I swear this car doesn't like to be modified, the revshift tranny mount was a pain to get in, the shifter rivets didn't want to com out, now the bolt breaks.... Ahhh the joys of moding!

Redchevyman

iTrader: (4)

I used the short torx bits because the easy outs break too easy. If you break a torx bit you can still weld afterwards.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Valid point. I'll hit up harbor freight tomorrow. If everything fails ill pull the head, but then it's l76/l92 time with a cam. I didn't want to jump to that just yet though.

jsnm

iTrader: (6)

Yep been here too,ended up just pulling the heads and having Advanced Induction do the machine work.
Good luck with it though,hopefully you'll get lucky and can get it out without having to pull the head.

4doortypels

iTrader: (39)

Local machine shop charged me 35 to remove one... pull the head and do it right the first time. It will be worth the time

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Well to update: had to take a few weeks off (school, wife's bday, life, etc.) and got back in it tonight. Tried the Dremel cutoff wheel to cut a slot and use a flat tip to back it out. That didn't work. Bought a short right drill and left thread bit. I'm digging into the bolt, going to retap to 10-32 and try to dig the bolt out. If it doesn't work I'm putting it back together and seeng if it leaks. If it does leak, I'm pulling the heads and doing head, intake and a cam....I'll see tomorrow what happens

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

So what i am hearing here is that you need to screw up the gasket before you re-install it...

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

An exhaust gasket? Yes who cares it's like $12 on amazon. A few people on the forum are running with broken off bolts, no leaks. That's why I say if it leaks I'll pull the head but I'll try everything before that. The reason being is if I pull the passenger side head, I'm not going to want to put the stock 80k mile springs, pushrods, rr's, gasket, etc back on... And if I upgrade the passenger side head, why not do the driver side head? And if you are going to pull both heads why not upgrade at the same time? And if you've already pulled the manifold, port the stock or upgrade as well right? And if you've dug that deep, **** put a cam in at the same time... Just saying it makes sense to me. Plus it's not my dd so it can be down for a while