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Got the cam swap stuff on order and dropped the car for a vinyl wrap.
Going with nardo grey and some matte accents in the front bumper.
It's Rex brand from the UK wrap. I know nothing more than that about the vinyl, but I have absolute faith in my guy doing the work. I'm also ceramic coating the wrap.
It is quite a bit darker in person. Sat cannot come soon enough. Blacking out the chrome around the grill and leaving the door moldings black to break up the grey .
Doing some slick stuff with the bumper to highlight the angles around the fogs and lower grill also.
Got my radiator and ported throttle body this week. Just waiting to throw it all on the fresh LS2 and see what the beasty spins on the rollers... have been collecting parts for 18months and finally about ready to go....
That does look good. At first it just looked silver. I've wondered what some of these non-metallic colors would look like on our cars, so this should be a great example. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Tore it apart for a heads and cam swap. I picked up a set of TEA stage 2 heads with a little extra work done by BTR. Also have a Tick Stage 2 LS2 blower cam on the way. On tear down I found a lifter roller pin that drifted out just a hair and wouldn’t let the lifter come out the top. Once I pulled the cam out I was able to use a really strong magnet and slide it down the cam bore and use it to pull the lifter out of the block. It had to come through 3 journals so I was relieved when it actually came out and not into the oil pan lol
any hp numbers on it yet? I’m going a bit more wild but curious to hear what kind is gains you get from the mods.
any hp numbers on it yet? I’m going a bit more wild but curious to hear what kind is gains you get from the mods.
I’ve never had it on the rollers. I’ve had some street tuning done when I had the 112 on it. I haven’t had the car tuned since I swapped the 122 on. It was supposed to be getting painted but that guy dicked me over so that was 4 months wasted. After I get the new heads and cam in it’s getting hauled to a tuner with a loaded dyno.
Put a nice ding in my new heads so I dropped them off at the machine shop to have them cleaned up. Looks worse than it is. The stand I was on slid back right as I was going to set the head on to measure PTV clearance and I kissed a valley cover bolt. Anyway, the cam got degreed and locked into place with ARP bolts and locktight. I’ve got plenty of clearance even with the milled heads and .040” gasket thanks to my Diamond pistons.
Maybe a dumb question, but what method do you use to torque the heads down with the engine in the car? When I replaced my LS6 years ago I had a heckuva time doing the torque / angle sequence with the engine on a stand, I have to think with the engine in the car it would be an even bigger pain in the ***.
Maybe a dumb question, but what method do you use to torque the heads down with the engine in the car? When I replaced my LS6 years ago I had a heckuva time doing the torque / angle sequence with the engine on a stand, I have to think with the engine in the car it would be an even bigger pain in the ***.
I pulled the heads on an 04 and it was one of the easier V8 muscle car jobs I've done. I don't remember there being anything difficult about getting the heads torqued.
I’m using ARP head studs so no torque angle. It’s a little bit of a puzzle because you can’t pull the heads with all the studs in, but you also can’t get all the studs out with the heads still on lol so I had to find out which ones I could leave in and which ones I couldn’t. It was a real pain.
The last pics was with the heads just setting on the guides and then the drivers torqued down and the valvetrain reinstalled. Tonight I got the other head torqued down and the valvetrain reinstalled on it too. I plan on knocking out most of the other stuff tomorrow and then I still have to pull the blower back apart to replace the intercooler.
02-03-2019, 11:39 PM
