BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I didn't realize it was so strict over there. I thought it was an automotive free-for-all based on the videos I've seen.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

- Picked up a replacement harness plug for the starter signal wire from Lindsay Cadillac. There are actually 2 different part numbers for the connector - one black (12101763), one grey (13587166) - and Luke said there wasn't anything in the system to allow him to differentiate. They had the grey in stock, so I grabbed that one; unfortunately, it costs about double what the black one does. Fortunately, it appears to fit just fine.

- Crawled under the car and whaddyakno, the harness has been fixed once before:


That picture was taken after I had pulled out the cat pipe and the starter itself, because I needed more room to work (and I want to take the starter somewhere to get tested). Of course, the starter wouldn't come out initially, because it was bumping into the heat shield on the CS motor mount. So I pulled the cat pipe first, so that I then had space to smack the heat shield to bend it closer to the motor mount, so that I could then get the damn starter out!

Edit: Upon further investigation, it appears the grey and black connectors are identical other than the color. The grey part number translates to connector PT2905, while the black one crosses over to PT170. If you do a google image search for those PT numbers, you'll see they appear to be the same. The only difference is PT170 includes a clip on the backside of the connector to keep the wire & seal from pulling out the back of the connector; for some reason, PT2905 has the little prongs on either side of the connector for that clip to snap onto, but it doesn't come with the clip. You can see what I'm talking about in the pics below. I took the clip off the connector that was on my car and snapped it onto the new grey connector.

PT2905:


PT170:


Looks like the black one also comes with whatever that little green piece of plastic is. Those pics don't show it well, but the shape of the male portion of the connectors is the same.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

- Got the starter tested @ Autozone. They ran the test a couple times and said it's good. Guess I'll throw it back in there, splice the new connector in, and see if it works this weekend.

Mike ctsV

Thought u had longtubes? Where did they go and why lol.
I may need to order one of those connectors and change just to be safe.

SE-R Spec

iTrader: (2)

IIRC he has JBA shorties

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I'm attempting to splice a new ground into my oil temp sensor. I don't really see a good place for an alternate ground to go. Anyone have suggestions?

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I ran the ground up to the bolt by the hood prop damper. Don't know if it made any difference - still seems like my oil temps read higher than they should.

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

Yea AAIIIC has the shorties

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

Replaced my reverse light lenses, big thanks to Junior 1 for sending me ones that he wasnt using...still owe you that beer Junior!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I used to, but shifted to JBA shorty headers for a Camaro/G8 a few years back. To get rid of this...



(That's the oil filter on a remote mount inside the driver side wheel well.)

... I did this so that I could go to a more conventional oil cooler setup, like so:



Hindsight being 20/20, I should've investigated other LT header options - probably would've been cheaper in the end, and wouldn't have sacrificed performance. In that thread I linked above, PISNUOFF (aka 07CTS-V here) posted a pic of his B&B headers; the failbucket link is dead now, but I responded that the B&Bs appeared to offer more room than the Kooks in the area where the take-off adapter bolts on above the oil filter. Maybe I would've been better off with B&Bs? Or maybe SW headers would've worked?

Mike ctsV

Ohh i see.
On the cadillac faq page on the header install part, they show the b&b with pics if that helps any.
But Ill be using that link for pointers when i get around to installing my kooks
http://cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/headers/index.html

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I ended up doing the same. Luckily I had a 3/8" ring terminal handy. I drove it a few miles for a quick errand and a car wash and so far so good. As long as it's not pegging the gauge and BONGING constantly, I'm really not concerned with oil temps on this daily driver. I routed the wire down to the AC compressor, then back through the opening beneath the motor mount bracket, snaked behind the starter and down to the sensor. It appears as though the pigtail had been replaced before.

UPDATE: Took a 500 mile road trip this weekend and the temps were steady. A little lower than I'd like to see at 195 tops, but that's likely due to my lower water temp with the lower t-stat. Not one alarm. Highly recommended fix.

Also, just installed a Speed Engineering catch can because I notice it seems to be consuming oil between 5-6k changes. Install was simple and the can was ~$76 shipped with decent quality via eBay. Line from the valley cover to the top, line to the intake into the side port on can. Mounted the bracket on the tensioner bolt. I did take a little sand paper to the inside of the bracket to open it up a bit to allow the can to slide in more easily. I had some spare 3/8" hose laying around, which was not included.

UPDATE #2: I added a 3/8" barbed check valve in line with the fresh air inlet from the TB to the Valve Cover. This should prevent any oil from back-tracking up that tube under decel when downshifting--which I believe is what was causing the oil consumption in the first place. This seemed like a super-easy solution and there was evidence of oil in the tube when I spliced the check valve in the center. I'll be pulling the intake for a cleaning in the near future, so hopefully this issue is no more.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I wound up emulating what you did with a couple of modifications. I bought a couple of different types of trim and wound up using a thicker, heavier duty trim on the bottom edge of the back seat. I filled in the sides near the bottom with the thinner Cowles trim where I noticed the paint was scratched. I also discovered you can eliminate a slight rattle by installing the Cowles trim along the upper edge of the top brace (the metal bar behind the plastic trim piece).









I also reupholstered three entire sets of interior trim. One with onyx alcantara, one with anthracite alcantara, and one with carbon fiber cloth from Rockwest Composites. The carbon fiber cloth turned out terrible. I'm probably going to keep the onyx alcantara but I want to install each set separately, take pictures, and review the results before I decide. Pictures don't do alcantara justice. It feels fantastic. When you hit the material with the camera flash it just flattens out and loses the look.





If I really get into this, I might strip down some of my extra interior pieces and apply some pre-stitched alcantara. I'm definitely going to have the edges of the sun visors stitched before installation. I feel like the main problem with alcantara trim is that it can look a little featureless.

Mike ctsV

Looks good fuzzy, curious where can u buy that material from?

Xours

Got a "service engine soon" signal so trying to track that issue down. Think I may drop the alt and go get that tested because its reading a little low on output.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Have any autoparts store pull the code first. Pulling the alternator isn't the easiest thing on these cars and is probably not the cause of your CEL.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

i had an intermittent start issue. played with relays, hard jumping the starter from the fuse box etc. i replaced the started with a truck version from amazon and a ring and terminal set up instead of the plastic. has started every time for the last year and works awesome.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I have considered changing out the starter to get rid of the harness connector (and go to a ring terminal like you did), but the starter tested OK, so for now I'll keep it. I've got a starter blanket and some more wire protector / heat shielding that'll be going on in the next couple days.

I was more mystified by the fact that the engine ran absolutely fine, with no sign of a misfire. I should have it back on the road tomorrow evening or Thursday, after which I can drive it some more and see if the misfire returns.

Hoarder's Garage

I just replaced the subwoofer with a 10" Kicker (40CWS102), and put sound deadening on the rear deck. For sound deadening, look at your local hardware store for roof seal tape. It's pretty much the same as dynomat, without the dynomat price. The speaker's mounting depth is 4.75" and it slipped in below the window. I cut the stock plastic tray, nibbled out the metal speaker opening, and went with a 1/2" MDF mount. AC Delco (#09376880) lists the stock subwoofer at 2 ohms, so I bought a 2 ohm sub. Out of curiosity I wanted to see if simply replacing the sub would make a difference. It didn't, the lows are still rather anemic. However, what lows are there are cleaner. I had a co-worker tell me that a common phrase in home audio is, "All highs and no lows, must be Bose." I'll be adding an amp for the subwoofer soon.
CTS-V1 subwoofer compare

azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

Custom center console. Alcantara in tre middle, real leather on sides, and with light grey stitching.