dead civic

iTrader: (3)

So my V is due for some Upper controll arms. I was thinking of buying these and inserting the revshift bushings.

would it even need the revshift bushings or are they good as is.

Also I love how this lower control arm looks.

any input on these?

also why do these have a blue boot on the top ball joint?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/mevotech-co...id=d219y2005j1

ryridesmotox

What is wrong with your stock arms?

The only reason I ask is that on every other car I've had, I just press in new bushings and new joints and its a good as new.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

would be nice if those tubular arms were available

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

What we really need is a control arm set that will allow for wider front tires.

Once fuzzylogic comes to some conclusion about the sts spindle swap, we will know more about what direction makes sense for aftermarket arm construction.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...13-forged.html

in other words, the stock one probably aren't worth replacing unless you can stuff a bigger tire on the car.....

ryridesmotox

How wide do you want to go? Don't some guys stuff like 275s under the front end?

FoD

On Team Dynamics wheels. I haven't seen anyone on stocks...but I'd imagine it's possible.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Not sure really. I dd my car for now so it doesn't really matter but once i wear the motor out i'll stick something interesting in it at which point i may need something a little beefier.

Read fuzzy's thread. if i remember correctly, he's looking for a 10" rim up front while losing a few pounds and maybe optimizing alignment settings using hopefully stock parts but there are some ball joint differences that or may not cause problems but wouldn't be too hard to account for with a tubular arm. There must be some need....mallett went to the trouble of sectioning and rewelding a stock set of spindles for more tire...

like i said, if i'm not really going to actually gain something, i'm not buying them. the only exception to this rule might be if new stock replacements were priced right, they come with all the bushings already in them and mine are worn out.

ryridesmotox

^ Yea I'm following fuzzy's thread. I was under the impression that his goal was more for the elimination of unsprung weight... The addition of a wider tire would be a secondary goal. I may have misunderstood him.

I could have swore someone had a pic, maybe its on the other forum.

There is a lot that can be made up for through different tire compounds, and alignment adjustments.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

did a search mevotech....don't seem to impressive really but the price is right.

yea, i mean, fuzzy is in to so much stuff, I've gotten to the point that i skim over some of his projects until he comes to some conclusion....i work with engineers all day, i don't need it so much when i'm off. that whole fuel pump deal is rather space shuttlish for me. fire up the plasma cutter, cut out the spare tire well and slap a fuel cell at it. no offense fuzzy, sometimes you make me dizzy

i think the wider tire was a secondary benefit after the weight savings

ryridesmotox

Lol i couldnt agree more... I fell like a 1st grader, just show me the pictures Fuzzy lololol. I like the fuel pump idea as well. But I'd have to agree... Fuel cell all the way.

OP, are your control arms damaged in any way? I mean I would try and reuse them unless they are in some way not 100%.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Who knows what the ultimate reason is, but he's also posted that he hopes to run a viper spec 10" wheel on all four corners.

Dmax/04V

The revshift bushings work amazingly well for handling, they make a hell of a racket though if you don't lube them constantly. If I did it again I would probably go with replacement stock bushings unless it was a dedicated track car. Delrin is the best alternative, but that is expensive; I think junior1 or somebody did it and it cost something close to a grand (custom made is expensive).

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Rockauto had those replacement control arms for $66/each last week when I was browsing parts. By the time you factor in the cost of bushings and a ball joint you might as well just buy the whole arm. It's just aluminum, so you can throw the old ones in the recycling bin with your beer cans.

Also, after messing with poly bushings in the control arms of g-bodys I will never use poly on control arms again. The squeaks will drive you crazy no matter how well you lube them during install. Makes the car sound like a mid 90's explorer that some {insert prejudice expletive here} drives.

Dmax/04V

Not to mention the pain in the *** of swapping bushings on a set of these things....

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

I'd love that. I was actually hoping here would point some out.
my top Drive side arm has play on the knuckle. and that ball joint on mine does not seem to be one that i can replace like the ones depicted on the JCW website... or am I wrong... again?

ryridesmotox

Ahhh its not that bad. I've done it plenty of times with all the trucks me and my buddies did. Arbor press, some dawn dish soap, and a little leverage and they pop right in and out. Or if you have a hydraulic press... Even better. But yea for $77 (I just checked) for the upper on rock auto isn't bad

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

Is the squeek remark accurate?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

If any one decides to throw away their arms, I need a set so, I can build a jig for tubular control arms.

Thanks!

ryridesmotox

Absolutely.

It sounded like a looney tunes car after they make it all lopsided through some catastrophe lol. But in general we didn't care. We ran them dry (without grease) most of the time because grease/oil collects massive quantities of dust and will accelerate wear worse than if we left them dry and no kind of lube was immune to the torture of a mach 3.58 desert run. We tried heims, but they too collect dust And were much more expensive to replace when they wore out. Either way we replaced bushing or heims every season so we stuck with poly.

Poly or delrin is preferred if you can live with the squeaks. I personally don't care. I would rather have something built ruggedly that won't wear out as quickly.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

According to the people on the Cadillac Forums, you can't press out the upper control arm bushings. But nobody has tried it. Plenty of people have replaced the lower control arm bushings. If that's something you want to do, there's a $70 A-frame Arbor press sold at Harbor Freight. There's also a 12 ton version that works over a much wider range of distances, but it's 6 feet tall instead of 30".

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html

I have three objectives with the aluminum spindles:

1. Reduce unsprung weight
2. Increase wheel clearance
3. Improve caster/camber angles

That's not true. Reduction of unsprung weight improves ride quality and responsiveness to steering inputs.

It's not that complicated. Don't lose sight of the fact that this is simply a second pump in a clearanced plastic bucket. We're futzing around with different line diameters and fittings right now, but in the end, I'll put up a simple parts list. If you have no natural inclination for this stuff, just follow the steps in Philistine's thread, or wait for mine.

By the way, the most complicated part of the installation, by far, are the electrical subsystem improvements--and that's coming from an electrical engineer. Regardless of what you choose to do, ALL avenues of attack require larger cabling and some type of electromechanical control system (either a switched network power supply or PWM input voltage controller). The stock connector on the CTS-V bucket with the stock pump is known to melt the lid and leak fuel on the ground. It's happened to three members that I'm aware of.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...g-smoking.html