There isn't one.

 

It looks like he used a one peice V2 rotor to me.

 

You asked what the V2 one-piece rotor weighed, and I answered you.

But you're correct--he installed Centric Premium Plain 120 Series one-piece rotors ($88 apiece). They're even cheaper than Brakemotive products, which are known to warp under moderate-to-high braking loads due to their design and GS3000 iron.

I wasn't going to say this earlier, but since I'm already this far: you really have to question the point of installing V2 calipers if you're going to match them with pads and rotors barely suitable for a SMART car. Under strenuous conditions, that setup is going to last a fraction of the time that even the OEM pads and rotors will, let alone quality pads and rotors.

 

In your post #10 you listed a 2 piece, as clearly evident the OP not only answered my question and is using a one piece rotor. with that being said, do you have any evidence to back your comments regarding his rotor choice and how he plans on using it?

Also while i am a huge fan of Warrens company, enjoyed testing his product in this personal 350z nearly 10yrs ago and what he has done for the import world in the past...i had a massive brake failure on track using his products. With that being said, each usage case is unique and needs to be understood before considering something quality or barely suitable.

 

Stoptech makes the Centric rotors. I ditched a set of expensive two piece DBA rotors on my Legacy when they developed cracks after a summer of track days in favor of a set of Centric Premium one piece blanks. They performed well both at the track with track pads and on the street with street pads. Didn't care what was known to whom or the metallurgy content, my practical experience was positive.

 

If you took an approach to answering peoples questions without being a smartass and not answer questions that you don't know the answer to you'd get more respect.

There is an OEM V2 1 piece rotor available. It is the Co-cast rotor that originally came on the V2's when it first launched.

ACDelco 177-1105

I wouldn't touch a brakemotive rotor or anything for that matter with a 10ft pole. Junk.

I made my rotor decision based from industry knowledge, budget and primarily the feedback from a multitude of V2 users that actually track their cars frequently using these rotors and stock pads. So it should be just fine for the light amount of track use that my car will see.

At the end of the day I can sleep easy knowing that Even if I just wasted $160 on "horrible smart car rotors" I can go and buy the OEM 1 or 2 piece rotors and still have not spent anywhere near what a RB setup would cost and arguably have the same or better braking performance and reliability at a fraction of the cost.

 

Either way, solid thread. I wish we could get a set of those as blanks and then just drill ours onto there. or be able to order them with just our bolt patten.


or just be able to bolt on the v2 hubs etc and call it a day.

 

You do realize that you can use normal V1 rotors, right?

 

Yes. They will fit. But there wouldn't be much point when you are giving up the extra pad surface area that isn't being used and the fact that you will encounter noise issues down the road with the pad overlapping the V1 rotor. That's like saying upgrade your throttlebody to a 90mm but don't port the manifold to match.

 

Not true. Most of the highest-end V1 owners utilize 355mm RB rotors and V2 calipers. You just have to chamfer the pad. 10% additional unsprung weight is not worth the 4% increase in rotor diameter (which basically boils down to a little bit of extra braking torque). The big improvement is on pad surface area versus the V1 front caliper.

 

Agreed. Chamfering the pads is all it takes.

 

using the v1 rotor is possible, so is just upgrading the setup on the car with better pads, lines, fluid, rotors etc. but that isnt the topic of this thread.

Also lets leave the unsprung weight argument ( even though you are looking to put 20's on your car) to those who turn wheels in anger on a track. If i could go back in time for even a little bit more braking force during my off track excursion i would have had cleaner boxers for the rest of that day. I would take the larger rotor and the unsprung weight always.

 

The installation of V2 calipers in a V1 is the topic of the thread, and as such, compatibility with rotors and pads is intrinsically part of the discussion.

You're misquoting me, and you're overestimating the cooling and torque delta offered by 370mm rotors versus 355mm rotors. Economy of scale applies to rotor design--here are some size and weight figures from RacingBrake's product line, as an example:

- 355x32mm rotors weigh 21.5 lbs.
- 370x34mm rotors weigh 23.5 lbs.
- 390x36mm rotors weigh 24.4 lbs. Do you see the trend here?

If I choose to purchase 20" wheels, I will be making that choice because I have found an 8-piston (front) and 6-piston (rear) Brembo caliper solution for this car, with 405mm and 390mm rotors. That is a significant upgrade that's worth paying the extra weight for. The 370mm rotors occupy a non-optimal middle ground. They are not large enough to take advantage of 8-piston calipers, but you pay almost the entire weight premium and get almost nothing in return.

 

aside from the ability to say you have it, what good would a 8 piston front caliper do for you on the street?

 

Let me answer that by asking you a question: what good is a car that can go over 75 mph if the speed limit on I-95 is 65 mph?

 

While your quest for weight savings is notable. The cost/performance penalty for going smaller and lighter doesn't make any sense in this case for my application.

I can guarantee that if you add 10-20lbs of unsprung mass per corner in brakes you won't notice any difference in driveability, and your lap times will go down and be impervious to fade at the end of your road course racing session. Because when it really comes down to it the 370mm will always have more cooling capacity than the 355mm setup. It will give you the ability to brake later and be more resistant to fade.

A cool brake is a happy brake... unless you get into carbon stuff, then different ballgame. I can also tell you that the hotter your system runs generally the more ineffective your friction material becomes and just wears down faster.

One caveat to adding the weight though is to ensure that the suspension is checked and/or re-tuned to handle the newly added weight.

I wish I could share data from the various testing I've done on the multitude of racetracks over the years, but it is strictly confidential.

At the end of the day, my car is a DD in the summer and will meet or exceed my needs for the street and the occasional HPDE. If I were to ever get into really racing it in any series I would be running different components(rotors, pads, wheels, tires) that were track only on race day regardless.

 

Not only can I tell the difference between ride quality and steering effort after installing two-piece RacingBrake rotors on all four corners, my V accelerates slightly quicker due to reduced rotating inertia. And it's easier to start from a dead stop.

Normally, the effect of such a small reduction in inertia might be masked by the OEM clutch, flywheel, and crank pulley, but I'm already down to the lightest and smallest components there. When I get the Geforce 9" installed, there will be a net increase in inertia due to the fact that inertia scales with respect to mass times radius squared. The carbon fiber driveshaft is about half the weight, but the 9" pinion ring is larger than the Getrag and heavier.

A 370mm system does not have more cooling capacity when you use cheap components. 4% more capacity is not worth chasing when you don't have functioning brake ducts. Get those fixed and then, if that's still not enough, start worrying about larger rotors.

You're coming off as hypocritical, seeing as your "V2" components can't even take V1 OEM levels of heat. I don't see you working on a spindle duct project, buying titanium shims, or low-deflection wheel bearings, so at best, I have to say your quest for cooler brakes is massively short-sided.

It would be more acceptable if you admitted that you spend $700 on a cosmetic mod. You're welcome to prove me wrong and help out on the project (or start your own), however.



























Unsprung weight isn't factored into suspension tuning.

That's a complete load of bullcrap.

 

I'll be damned, just when I thought it wasn't possible for you to come off any more like an abrasive *******, you've surpassed your own benchmark. Aside from racing to work and the grocery store on public streets, do you test and collect actual data on any of these engineering absolutes you preach with such vigor? Don't get me wrong, you're a smart fellow, with drive to match, but sometimes real world results don't match up with the notebook and pencil. All of this endless tinkering you do to your car and countless $$$ poured into the quest for engineering perfection seems silly to me on the sideline when I know from experience that a stock car with good tires, an honest set of pads, and an experienced driver would run circles around you on a road course. Why is it that when someone disagrees with you or your scientific principles with behind the wheel experience, you march a crusade with only more textbook facts, diagrams, and formulas? I agree with barrok69 that brakes with more fade resistance will trump un sprung weight advantages on a road course for an amateur driver. I also feel seat time and a good set of ears will trump both of those modifications. I didn't come to those conclusions on paper, I experienced them driving a car on the track.

I think it was your comment about his lack of participation in your brake duct design process that put me over the edge. You're conceited demeanor, perhaps via the Internet only, is so tiring; but today, I had a little free time.

 

You seem to be one of the hundreds (if not thousands) of people that I've met who simply cannot grasp the precepts of an ENTJ/Type A personality, incorrectly labeling me an arrogant a**hole instead of someone who simply wants to cut the crap and get to the correct answer in the most expedient manner possible.

I really don't give a rat's *** about the opinions of people who don't drive, don't do any design work, and frequently function as propagators of bad information on the internet. I'm not angry at anyone, nor do I consider anyone on this forum a lesser individual--I'm simply dismissive of unsupported and/or untenable opinions. Not people. There's a strong distinction there.

My objective was to identify that barrok69 has a laser-like focus on rotor size, while being completely blind to massive, well-documented shortcomings of the stock braking system. So, when he tries to start lecturing me about how "cool brakes are good" and "suspension tuning is important," one of two things are going to happen: either I'm going to ignore the post, or try to address that misconception.

The thing that might blow your mind is that I don't respond to people that I don't respect.

 

I will say this again, i think barrok69 does this sort of thing for a living if i recall. not everything in theory or principle works well or better when applied to moving vehicles.

Maybe other people see cad drawings or Ti parts and get excited but i dont see any measurement equipment , thermocouples, FEA work....really anything that is required to make the sort of claims you are making in regards to things. I am all for people doing things to push the platform in a direction, but people need to have credible data to go along with it. This isnt stancenation, nor are we at H2O where hard parking is key....if you make claims for performance parts you should do diligance to have data to back it up. how fast you can dive into the intersection leaving your house isnt data for me.