So, I've got a rpm level 5 trans (installed by PO) and when I bought it, the pilot bearing was trying to lock up, which ruins synchronizers, obviously. Reverse has always been nearly impossible to achieve. You'd have to put it in first, let out on the clutch pedal until the clutch started to engage, then fling it in reverse as fast as possible. That causes problems if you're in a hurried situation, and it only works the first try about 75% of the time. I just did this mod to my car, and over the last 2 days it has went in reverse normally EVERY single time. There's a bit of a grind because I need a reverse blocker ring (on order), but I cannot put into words how much this has improved my opinion of this car. If you haven't done this mod, do it. It is better than my Maggie.

 

just out curiousity, had u heard of this mod before u read my post? i wS just wondering how many other people have done/heard of it. also just goes to show ya that just bc you pay a reputable shop doesnt mean youll get the best results

 

Your post was the first I'd heard of it. I then researched it before hacking anything up. Seems to be a fairly common ordeal. As far as RPM, there wasn't a lot that the could've done to prevent the issue. The trans was installed at the same time As a monster clutch and light flywheel. Just a bad bearing.

 

My reverse is a PITA to get into, but I would never have thought you could fix the problem with the tranny still in the car. I'm not sure I've got the guts to do this, but I've been thinking of getting a CF driveshaft, so I could do this while I already have the driveshaft out.

 

thats why i did this writeup for everybody. i wondered myself if it could be done but i get too curious to leave stuff alone lol. it only took me about 4hrs from start to finish and i went in blind lol. just follow the pics and u should be good to go. the hardest part for me puttin the tailhousing back on bc the shafts sag a little while in the car.

 

yea im not trashin rpm at all. before i knew how to build a trans a had a level5 in my 99 camaro. it was probably the tightest feeling t56 that i have driven. it was sweet but now i know how to get the same results without spending $4000+

 

I just stopped by the trans shop today to see my T56 while it was in pieces. After speaking with the owner, I can confirm that my reverse problem could have been fixed with the trans still in the car as excellently illustrated here in this thread. My pads weren't as bad, and the root issue for me seemed to be a worn syncro and blocker ring. I'm getting a new reverse gear, syncro, blocker, frictions, and brass pads to cure my reverse issue. While the trans was apart, they're replacing all pads with brass, billet keys, friction surfaces, and a new 3rd gear and syncro. I think my wife will actually be able to drive the car now.

 

I also wanted to add that Finish Line told me now that the T56 has been discontinued, parts are more expensive and harder to get. His distributor had 30 reverse gears on back order, I happened to get the last one his shop had on hand. If this is a project you plan on undertaking, you might want to order your parts well in advance.

 

make sure u put a steel 3rd gear shift fork in it if it doesnt already have one. supposedly ctsv's came with steel but i still think some of them were aluminum. just a heads up!

 

Thanks for the great write up. I seriously have my 04 V on jack stands in the garage now for this exact same problem. I too thought it was shifter bushings replaced those installed the driveshaft and fired it up on stands and it still popped out, so back out came the d/s. my V was always hard to get in reverse but never popped out till I did a monster lvl 2 clutch it would have been a lot easier to do this on the bench when I had the tranny out but it looks like I am doing it in the car.

 

might be one of the best threads i have read on here in a while that addresses an issue some of us have

 

You dont have to push the shifter as far forward. Its about the same as the other gears, before i did it i used to have to try to cram the shifter through the hvac controller lol

 

what did you use to machine off the shift fork the 3/32

 

I used the side of a stone wheel on a bench grinder. Just took a little bit off at a time til it fit right. I know one guy used a regular grinder and one guy used a belt sander. Doesnt really matter as long as u take it off of the correct side

 

I used a die grinder and a 3m surface prep wheel.

 

And there's one more option

 

So people are referring to this as a "mod" as in modification. bigassogre modified the reverse fork for increased travel, but also replaced the reverse gear, severely worn pads, blocker ring, and syncro all at the same time. The scientist in me knows you can't change that many variables at once and call it a victory, even with positive results.

For everyone else chiming in with success stories, for clarification, did you modify only the reverse fork and make no other changes to the trans while apart? I'd like to collect a little more data on what actually is making the most impact on a poor reverse gear selection issue. My own reverse problems appeared to be syncro and blocker ring wear related. I chose not to modify my reverse selector fork. I'm interested in hearing from those who were able to cure their problems with only the fork modification.

 

Well, the only way I could get in reverse prior to doing this was to put it in a forward gear, let out on the clutch pedal until the clutch began to engage, then hit the clutch pedal and sling it in reverse. That only worked prolly 3/4 of the time or so. After this mod, I simply put it in reverse. I do have a worn blocker ring, so it grinds a bit. The new blocker ring is in my center console until I have time to do it. The fork was THE only thing I changed other than the silicone on the tailshaft housing and a new tailshaft seal. I'd say it absolutely works. Beforehand, it would not even go in reverse with the engine off. Until I get the new blocker ring in, I sync it using first to keep it from grinding. Reverse has been achieved EVERY time since the mod.

 

I can see where people would be skeptical but its simple measurements and it works

 

No, don't get me wrong, I don't doubt your results. I'm just looking for more evidence of success when the fork modification was the only change. Had your write-up been posted two weeks earlier, I would have told my mechanic to leave the trans in the car, flip the reverse syncro, grind the fork, and take all the saved money and dropped it on hookers and blow.