Shimming ls7 slave
#81
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So they have tolerances specific to the RAM flywheel, apparently. Something to be aware of for those of you taking measurements with different flywheels.
RAM flywheel tolerances (as above) - 0.175" to 0.225
Tick/generic tolerances - 0.125" to 0.200"
I'll report back with more follow-up to my specific situation later on...
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my LS7 clutch kit off fleabay was in GM packaging....I saw the letters LUK very small protruding out of the flywheel...Put it in with a new GM LS7 slave an it is hard to disengage;;;;and if I start it up say in second. car will move some..Does Luk make GM flywheels????So I got 2 blocks on it. Going back to the RXT Mcleod..
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I don't mean to be offensive, but I can't think of any other way to say this.... You're either as thick as a brick, or you're as stuck in your ways as the Clipper's coach, Donald Sterling. It's useless to try to have a conversation about this with someone like you because you'll just keep defending your opinion rather than take an impartial look at things.
I would like to remind you that MANY people have installed the "eBay" kit withOUT these issues. Blaming things solely on the parts is as reasonable as blaming things solely on variations on the car. And, as has already been stated by someone who physically held these 2 units side by side and compared them (albeit, in a cursory fashion) - It's LUK stuff, besides the flywheel, which is aftermarket. LUK is GM's manfacturer for this part, but they're NOT exclusive to GM. Just like TRW makes auto parts for Toyota, etc.. they also send those parts to NAPA stores, Autozones, and so on. Why would LUK not sell to Gripforce? That would be awfully bad business, unless they had an agreement of exclusivity with GM (which I have yet to see any evidence of).
Regardless, the combination of my guesses and your guesses as to why this is happening is worth just a little less than...well...nothing. It's just hyperbole.
Unfortunately my situation just "is what it is", and some of us have to be the unlucky ones to deal with being the 1 in a bunch that has issues with things that the majority have not.
I would like to remind you that MANY people have installed the "eBay" kit withOUT these issues. Blaming things solely on the parts is as reasonable as blaming things solely on variations on the car. And, as has already been stated by someone who physically held these 2 units side by side and compared them (albeit, in a cursory fashion) - It's LUK stuff, besides the flywheel, which is aftermarket. LUK is GM's manfacturer for this part, but they're NOT exclusive to GM. Just like TRW makes auto parts for Toyota, etc.. they also send those parts to NAPA stores, Autozones, and so on. Why would LUK not sell to Gripforce? That would be awfully bad business, unless they had an agreement of exclusivity with GM (which I have yet to see any evidence of).
Regardless, the combination of my guesses and your guesses as to why this is happening is worth just a little less than...well...nothing. It's just hyperbole.
Unfortunately my situation just "is what it is", and some of us have to be the unlucky ones to deal with being the 1 in a bunch that has issues with things that the majority have not.
#85
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I used the luk repset clutch kit from gripforce on eBay. It came with the ls7 slave. I bought the flywheel from Napa for $120 (Canadian) garage cost and it also had luk stamped on it with the exact writing and pictures on the box as the luk clutch kit just had Napa logo too. I used new pressure plate bolts from gm to a Z06 and torqued to 47ft/lbs. At first the pedal was engaging very low to the floor but never any problems getting into gear. Clutch pedal moved back up around stock position after a couple weeks of driving. My car has 185,000km too.
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I bought the ls7 kit off fleabay. using an ls7 oem slave, having a hard time for it to disengage....SO IMO the fleabay **** is ****...JUNK freakin shim time...
also I called Luk when this topic first went up and they make both the oem flywheel and clutch disc/pp for gmc
edit BlackSS I agree with you, but was asking greg. should have quoted
Last edited by TeamSorad; 05-08-2014 at 11:02 PM.
#87
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I'm just saying oem is luk. You buy oem from gm, you get the same luk clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel as anywhere else you buy luk from, you just pay more. Doesn't matter if it eBay or not.
#88
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Here's my follow-up from having the shim installed today. Got the car back and everything is AWESOME!! She's shifting into reverse and every other gear without any issues. Given that I had almost 500 kilometers (300 miles) on the new clutch before I realized I needed the shim installed, I thought it would be safe to give it a couple higher-rev/more throttle shifts too (about 5,000 rpm); which were also flawless.
Details: I used Tick's tolerances for the shim measuring.
"A" - 2.4475"
"B" - 2.4235"
Difference - 0.024"
Tolerance - 0.125" to 0.200"
Shim - 0.113" (middle size from kit)
Total w/ shim - 0.137"
So, she's shifting nicely into all gears and has lots of room for wear too. All is well.
Thanks to everyone for their help too. The posts, PM's, and texts saved me a LOT of headaches, time, and money, no doubt. It's much appreciated. I'll try to pay it forward by typing up a nice post about my LS7 clutch swap "story", so the community can have one more resource when they're looking into doing this.
I guess I have a different perspective. I don't have a RAM flywheel, so I didn't use RAM's tolerances. I called Tick and they provided some explanations as to how they came to their tolerance numbers and why RAM's may be different. That sealed the deal to go with Tick's numbers for me.
You've got clutch drag, by the sounds of it. I can't tell from your 2 posts what "kit" you bought exactly. The one that I got was from vendor Gripforce and came with a blue painted LUK pressure plate and LUK clutch disk, LS7 slave (not sure of manufacturer, but assume it's same as O'reilly/Autozone one), and a light weight chromoly flywheel made by "F1" (who is now called "FX"). http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/400687835050?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4adb27aa&vxp=mtr. There are plenty of people who've installed this kit without having to shim the slave, but unfortunately a few of us have learned the hard way that a a shim is required. What's causing this, I don't know. In my opinion, there's more at play here than just the parts themselves. We're mating up a slave to a master cylinder that doesn't push the same amount of fluid as what it was meant to work with. Let alone the fact that the whole "kit" is designed and made for an entirely different car. Hopefully one of the lessons that everyone who reads this thread learns is that it's imperative that they do the aforementioned measurements when installing their new clutch, just so they can be sure of whether they'll need a shim or not, and/or whether they'll be battling with clutch drag if they don't.
So you bought from Gripforce, but got the kit without the flywheel, right? And then you added the OEM LS7 flywheel, resulting in a completely LUK/OEM LS7 clutch kit. This is further evidence to me that there may be a varience in the aftermarket (RAM, F1/FX) flywheels that is causing the need for a slave shim. This still begs the question of how so many others have installed these flywheels and not had to shim the slave though.
My V has 145,--- Kilometers (90,000 miles for the Yanks reading this
). My clutch came right up to almost stock height after I gave it a few good bleeds and drove it for a few days. Even with the pedal height being great, I still had drag isses though, as you can see. Now with the shim installed and no more drag, the pedal is still exactly where it was before the shim. Right around stock height. I'm very happy with it.
I don't think anyone was arguing this with you, bud. It just wasn't clear what you were trying to say in your post. Some people have a hard time accepting the fact that you can get GM OEM parts from sources other than GM. Hopefully that myth was dispelled amongst all the BS a few pages back. lol
Details: I used Tick's tolerances for the shim measuring.
"A" - 2.4475"
"B" - 2.4235"
Difference - 0.024"
Tolerance - 0.125" to 0.200"
Shim - 0.113" (middle size from kit)
Total w/ shim - 0.137"
So, she's shifting nicely into all gears and has lots of room for wear too. All is well.
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Thanks to everyone for their help too. The posts, PM's, and texts saved me a LOT of headaches, time, and money, no doubt. It's much appreciated. I'll try to pay it forward by typing up a nice post about my LS7 clutch swap "story", so the community can have one more resource when they're looking into doing this.
my LS7 clutch kit off fleabay was in GM packaging....I saw the letters LUK very small protruding out of the flywheel...Put it in with a new GM LS7 slave an it is hard to disengage;;;;and if I start it up say in second. car will move some..Does Luk make GM flywheels????So I got 2 blocks on it. Going back to the RXT Mcleod..
I used the luk repset clutch kit from gripforce on eBay. It came with the ls7 slave. I bought the flywheel from Napa for $120 (Canadian) garage cost and it also had luk stamped on it with the exact writing and pictures on the box as the luk clutch kit just had Napa logo too. I used new pressure plate bolts from gm to a Z06 and torqued to 47ft/lbs. At first the pedal was engaging very low to the floor but never any problems getting into gear. Clutch pedal moved back up around stock position after a couple weeks of driving. My car has 185,000km too.
My V has 145,--- Kilometers (90,000 miles for the Yanks reading this
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I don't think anyone was arguing this with you, bud. It just wasn't clear what you were trying to say in your post. Some people have a hard time accepting the fact that you can get GM OEM parts from sources other than GM. Hopefully that myth was dispelled amongst all the BS a few pages back. lol
Last edited by wes8398; 05-09-2014 at 09:09 AM.
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Well I installed a ls7 clutch, ram aluminum flwheel, arp pressure plate and flywheel bolts, and ls7 slave a few months back. Break-in went smooth, except I could not go into reverse with the car running. It would lock me out of gear above 4500 rpms(no grind, just wouldn't slide into gear), and failed rev test.
I pulled the trans to measure and ended up with measurement A- 2 7/16 or 2.4375 and measurement B- 2 5/16 or 2.3125. I installed a (.113) shim from Tick, now everything is perfect. Shifting into reverse is as smooth as any other gear, and can shift at 6500. Maybe it was the aluminum flywheel that made me have to shim but I recommend checking measurements anyway since it only takes a few seconds. Hope no one else has this problem.
I pulled the trans to measure and ended up with measurement A- 2 7/16 or 2.4375 and measurement B- 2 5/16 or 2.3125. I installed a (.113) shim from Tick, now everything is perfect. Shifting into reverse is as smooth as any other gear, and can shift at 6500. Maybe it was the aluminum flywheel that made me have to shim but I recommend checking measurements anyway since it only takes a few seconds. Hope no one else has this problem.
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Edited my post to reflect accuracy re: OP's post. Been reading so many of these threads that I got mixed up and thought the OP was running same flywheel as I was. Thanks for pointing that out GREG O.
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Glad your mechanic got your car fixed. I know he, as well as you, is tired of dealing with it.
I know you see absolutely no chance that GM could ever hold their parts exclusive, and while I think you could possibly be right that Luk is able to sell OEM parts on the aftermarket, there are also cases where they can not.....please refer to post 31 in the following thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...upgrade-2.html
although i will be going all GM for my clutch install, i will also have the shims available just in case...
I know you see absolutely no chance that GM could ever hold their parts exclusive, and while I think you could possibly be right that Luk is able to sell OEM parts on the aftermarket, there are also cases where they can not.....please refer to post 31 in the following thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...upgrade-2.html
although i will be going all GM for my clutch install, i will also have the shims available just in case...
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I have the steel billet flywheel that's got LUK stamped on it off fleabay. I have not taken it to Lindsay Cadillac yet but probably eventually will do that, since it is still not disengaging properly just want to congratulate you good job.
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Glad your mechanic got your car fixed. I know he, as well as you, is tired of dealing with it.
I know you see absolutely no chance that GM could ever hold their parts exclusive, and while I think you could possibly be right that Luk is able to sell OEM parts on the aftermarket, there are also cases where they can not.....please refer to post 31 in the following thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...upgrade-2.html
although i will be going all GM for my clutch install, i will also have the shims available just in case...
I know you see absolutely no chance that GM could ever hold their parts exclusive, and while I think you could possibly be right that Luk is able to sell OEM parts on the aftermarket, there are also cases where they can not.....please refer to post 31 in the following thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...upgrade-2.html
although i will be going all GM for my clutch install, i will also have the shims available just in case...
I called luk and they are the same clutches, there is no you could possibly be right, I am right and you are wrong. Congrats you will be going "all gm" for your clutch. You will be buying Luk parts.
Like I said Wes will post back after the issue gets resolved and his "terrible after market clutch and lightweight flywheel" will be wrapping out great
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For the record and for future reference when someone comes across this thread in a search...
I've had 2 members PM me over the last few weeks regarding their apparent need for shims as well. And guess what setup they've installed...? GM ls7!! So this isn't a case of issues from certain suppliers and/or manufacturers. It seems to be unique to each car, somehow. Maybe it's related to the master cylinders or variences in slave manufacturing... maybe it's something else. But there are now confirmations that folks with almost any manufacturer's parts installed have had to drop the trans again and install slave shims.
Greg O - we posted at the same time. Sorry, but are you saying you have the full GM kit, or were any components from other manufacturers?
I've had 2 members PM me over the last few weeks regarding their apparent need for shims as well. And guess what setup they've installed...? GM ls7!! So this isn't a case of issues from certain suppliers and/or manufacturers. It seems to be unique to each car, somehow. Maybe it's related to the master cylinders or variences in slave manufacturing... maybe it's something else. But there are now confirmations that folks with almost any manufacturer's parts installed have had to drop the trans again and install slave shims.
Greg O - we posted at the same time. Sorry, but are you saying you have the full GM kit, or were any components from other manufacturers?
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For the record and for future reference when someone comes across this thread in a search...
I've had 2 members PM me over the last few weeks regarding their apparent need for shims as well. And guess what setup they've installed...? GM ls7!! So this isn't a case of issues from certain suppliers and/or manufacturers. It seems to be unique to each car, somehow. Maybe it's related to the master cylinders or variences in slave manufacturing... maybe it's something else. But there are now confirmations that folks with almost any manufacturer's parts installed have had to drop the trans again and install slave shims.
Greg O - we posted at the same time. Sorry, but are you saying you have the full GM kit, or were any components from other manufacturers?
I've had 2 members PM me over the last few weeks regarding their apparent need for shims as well. And guess what setup they've installed...? GM ls7!! So this isn't a case of issues from certain suppliers and/or manufacturers. It seems to be unique to each car, somehow. Maybe it's related to the master cylinders or variences in slave manufacturing... maybe it's something else. But there are now confirmations that folks with almost any manufacturer's parts installed have had to drop the trans again and install slave shims.
Greg O - we posted at the same time. Sorry, but are you saying you have the full GM kit, or were any components from other manufacturers?
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#98
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Hey guys, I might have something to add...
I have been perusing other forums and I seem to have somewhat of an idea. Very specifically, a few times, I saw people mention a V1 throwout bearing. From what I've read, they seem to be different than the LS7? I'm just kinda throwing that out as a possible issue. Anyways, just a thought. Obviously, if your bearing clearance is out of spec, that's probably the issue. But I just wanted to add another possible angle. I'm going to be ordering up my LS7 soon, not sure where I'm going to get it yet, I'm still reading about it though so we shall see.
I have been perusing other forums and I seem to have somewhat of an idea. Very specifically, a few times, I saw people mention a V1 throwout bearing. From what I've read, they seem to be different than the LS7? I'm just kinda throwing that out as a possible issue. Anyways, just a thought. Obviously, if your bearing clearance is out of spec, that's probably the issue. But I just wanted to add another possible angle. I'm going to be ordering up my LS7 soon, not sure where I'm going to get it yet, I'm still reading about it though so we shall see.
#99
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Here's my follow-up from having the shim installed today. Got the car back and everything is AWESOME!! She's shifting into reverse and every other gear without any issues. Given that I had almost 500 kilometers (300 miles) on the new clutch before I realized I needed the shim installed, I thought it would be safe to give it a couple higher-rev/more throttle shifts too (about 5,000 rpm); which were also flawless.
Details: I used Tick's tolerances for the shim measuring.
"A" - 2.4475"
"B" - 2.4235"
Difference - 0.024"
Tolerance - 0.125" to 0.200"
Shim - 0.113" (middle size from kit)
Total w/ shim - 0.137"
So, she's shifting nicely into all gears and has lots of room for wear too. All is well.
...
Details: I used Tick's tolerances for the shim measuring.
"A" - 2.4475"
"B" - 2.4235"
Difference - 0.024"
Tolerance - 0.125" to 0.200"
Shim - 0.113" (middle size from kit)
Total w/ shim - 0.137"
So, she's shifting nicely into all gears and has lots of room for wear too. All is well.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
...
I had my mechanic attempt to get the measurements into the tolerances that Tick suggested (0.125 to 0.200). My original "A" measurement was 2.4475" and "B" was 2.4235". We mistakenly subtracted the shim measurements from the "B" measurement, and thought we needed the 0.113 shim to give us an "A" minus "B" of 0.137". As Philistine pointed out, we actually needed to add the shim measurement to "B", which would give us an "A" minus "B" of -(negative)0.089.
So, in summary, the 0.089" of pre-load that my erroneous instructions to my mechanic caused, actually did seem to solve my problems with the clutch drag, but the above stated math is incorrect and I am not within Tick's tolerances.
I didn't want anyone making the same mistake and/or becoming confused about what I'd done, so I just wanted to clarify.
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In the interest of anyone who comes across this thread in the future, I thought I would post an update because I've recently discovered that I/we made a mistake with our measurements/math when it came to installing the shim. Thankfully, things are still operating well and I'm not having any issues. I just discovered this through conversation with Philistine regarding his new master cylinder.
I had my mechanic attempt to get the measurements into the tolerances that Tick suggested (0.125 to 0.200). My original "A" measurement was 2.4475" and "B" was 2.4235". We mistakenly subtracted the shim measurements from the "B" measurement, and thought we needed the 0.113 shim to give us an "A" minus "B" of 0.137". As Philistine pointed out, we actually needed to add the shim measurement to "B", which would give us an "A" minus "B" of -(negative)0.089.
So, in summary, the 0.089" of pre-load that my erroneous instructions to my mechanic caused, actually did seem to solve my problems with the clutch drag, but the above stated math is incorrect and I am not within Tick's tolerances.
I didn't want anyone making the same mistake and/or becoming confused about what I'd done, so I just wanted to clarify.
I had my mechanic attempt to get the measurements into the tolerances that Tick suggested (0.125 to 0.200). My original "A" measurement was 2.4475" and "B" was 2.4235". We mistakenly subtracted the shim measurements from the "B" measurement, and thought we needed the 0.113 shim to give us an "A" minus "B" of 0.137". As Philistine pointed out, we actually needed to add the shim measurement to "B", which would give us an "A" minus "B" of -(negative)0.089.
So, in summary, the 0.089" of pre-load that my erroneous instructions to my mechanic caused, actually did seem to solve my problems with the clutch drag, but the above stated math is incorrect and I am not within Tick's tolerances.
I didn't want anyone making the same mistake and/or becoming confused about what I'd done, so I just wanted to clarify.
Edit: nevermind I get it. Re-read the first few pages. You are basically adding some preload instead of setting the gap properly to compensate for the slave not being actuated fully by the stock master cylinder. So philistine's master would probably be a better fix
Last edited by isis; 07-09-2014 at 11:12 AM.