Shimming ls7 slave
#141
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
your right on the money with the shifter, after the hurst went in its feels almost the same as my 5th gen did. there is still a little bit of play but its solid enough. there seems to be a lot of people out there that are running the ls7 set up i think you just need to be aware of the potential and be ready to deal. i hope i dont need a new clutch any time soon but at my mileage who knows. really with i knew if they replaced anything when the previous owner had a new trans put in under warranty at 80k.
#142
Just skimmed this stuff guys, here is my experience.
AL flywheel, LS7 clutch, ls7 slave, no spacers, stock master cylinder, t56 with 130k, hurst shifter - clutch felt great, easy to drive, shifting is slow or it would grind waiting for the syncros to line up I assume. The LS7 clutch never slipped, even with 17.3 psi boost, decent cam, CNC ls3 heads etc. Any way I calculate it I was making at least 700 rwhp. The LS7 clutch is badass and cheap.
From that setup I pulled the trans because it was hard to get into reverse. A bearing let go and scored the main shaft but surprisingly the gears look fine. Anyway I upgraded it all to an RSG "transzilla" which is TR6060 internals and whatever else rated to 850 ft-lbs at the tires. Same power as before. Also put in a McLeod RST twin disk, new McLeod al flywheel, new V1 OEM slave, 2 thick and 1 thin tick spacers, and a Wilwood master cylinder. The clutch pedal action is way firmer, the clutch grabs at the top of the stroke instead of the bottom which is harder to regulate for a DD but maybe I'll get used to it, shifting is faster but still leaves some to be desired. Other than being able to change the ratios and the peace of mind, to do it over again I'd just do a stock rebuild with new bearings on the T56, keep the LS7 clutch, and just do the master cylinder swap.
Has anyone had an ls7 clutch slip?
I wonder if a zr1 twin disk would be a better option for a daily if you don't trust an ls7.
AL flywheel, LS7 clutch, ls7 slave, no spacers, stock master cylinder, t56 with 130k, hurst shifter - clutch felt great, easy to drive, shifting is slow or it would grind waiting for the syncros to line up I assume. The LS7 clutch never slipped, even with 17.3 psi boost, decent cam, CNC ls3 heads etc. Any way I calculate it I was making at least 700 rwhp. The LS7 clutch is badass and cheap.
From that setup I pulled the trans because it was hard to get into reverse. A bearing let go and scored the main shaft but surprisingly the gears look fine. Anyway I upgraded it all to an RSG "transzilla" which is TR6060 internals and whatever else rated to 850 ft-lbs at the tires. Same power as before. Also put in a McLeod RST twin disk, new McLeod al flywheel, new V1 OEM slave, 2 thick and 1 thin tick spacers, and a Wilwood master cylinder. The clutch pedal action is way firmer, the clutch grabs at the top of the stroke instead of the bottom which is harder to regulate for a DD but maybe I'll get used to it, shifting is faster but still leaves some to be desired. Other than being able to change the ratios and the peace of mind, to do it over again I'd just do a stock rebuild with new bearings on the T56, keep the LS7 clutch, and just do the master cylinder swap.
Has anyone had an ls7 clutch slip?
I wonder if a zr1 twin disk would be a better option for a daily if you don't trust an ls7.
#143
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Anyway I upgraded it all to an RSG "transzilla" which is TR6060 internals and whatever else rated to 850 ft-lbs at the tires. Same power as before. Also put in a McLeod RST twin disk, new McLeod al flywheel, new V1 OEM slave, 2 thick and 1 thin tick spacers, and a Wilwood master cylinder. The clutch pedal action is way firmer, the clutch grabs at the top of the stroke instead of the bottom which is harder to regulate for a DD but maybe I'll get used to it, shifting is faster but still leaves some to be desired. Other than being able to change the ratios and the peace of mind, to do it over again I'd just do a stock rebuild with new bearings on the T56, keep the LS7 clutch, and just do the master cylinder swap.
McLeod told me their clutches would be a plug and play, no shimming required. Any particular reason you shimmed?
Overall this tells me 2 things...1, the tr6060 internals lead to better shift quality which isn't unexpected. 2, the V1 remote shifter isn't up to the task and I base this on the positive reports I've read about the V2 tr6060 which has a much more direct shifter setup.
I'm still on stock power so I haven't but there have been reports that the ls7 starts slipping in the V1 around 500rwhp. If this clutch were in a Corvette, it would take more but the extra weight of the V1 is making it more likely to slip at some point.
#144
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
This could be caused by a clutch that's not releasing all the way caused by wrong clutch dimensions like Fuzzy was saying, it could be not enough hydraulic capacity which should be addressed by the PMC or it could simply be a tendency of the t56.
As I still have minor problems that I feel are clutch release related (drivetrain movement when put into gear) I'm leaning towards clutch disengagement issues. Guess I'll bleed it again with s higher grade fluid and play with the PMC some more.
#145
I just installed my LS7 I purchased from amazon along with PMC & Hurst shifter. My clutch release is just as stock was. No shim, no clutch drag, no issues shifting other than it's a little notchy.
#146
The transzilla uses a different front plate than the V1 which moves the slave to a more forward position. It is too far forward to run a ls7 slave but isn't forward enough for a v1 slave without shims. I'm not sure what the correct slave is for it without shims, maybe a ls1 or something.
The new trans does shift much nicer but I wouldn't call it perfect either.
The new trans does shift much nicer but I wouldn't call it perfect either.