Sweetwilliebrownjr

So, I've got an rpm level 5 trans. A bad pilot bearing burned up my reverse synchronizer. It appeared to be a carbon reverse blocker ring. Everything I can find says it should be brass. I put a brass one in because rpm said it should be, and it still grinds when going to reverse. I flipped the synchro as well. What's left? I also modified the the reverse fork as per bigassogre's fix, which fixed all the other problems I had with reverse. Now I'm just trying to figure out grinding.

1yakini

I swear there weren't any synchros in the reverse gear... Maybe Im wrong. Shrugs

bigassogre

iTrader: (1)

Did u look at the reverse gear where it engages? If those teeth were rounded off thats probably your problem

Sweetwilliebrownjr

The reverse gear looked fine. It never would grind before because I always had to synch it using another gear. It only grinds now if I go straight for reverse. If I go 1st then reverse while clutched, no grinding. The trust washer basically allows there to be a cushion when going into gear as opposed to an abrupt engagement, right? Maybe it's not doing its job? I'm guessing here, as this is my first transmission to go into.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Refresh my memory, does the blocker sit on the syncro or the reverse gear? I recall my builder explaining that my blocker was worn and should be riding with a gap between it and the next surface, which I can't recall if it was the gear itself or the syncro. I had all three replaced to fix my revers issue.

Sweetwilliebrownjr

The blocker ring rides on the synchro. I guess the gap he's referring to is between the blocker ring and the gear, but there's a thrust washer in between the two to hold the synchro off the gear until you start putting it in gear. As you put the gearshift in reverse, it pushes the blocker ring on to the gear, and begins the synchro spinning to match speeds with the gear. At least that's how I believe it works.

bigassogre

iTrader: (1)

Idk. Id just have to see it and drive the car i guess