Group Buy - philistine aftermarket clutch master cylinder.
#74
Well, the master cylinder went in with very little hiccups. I was quite impressed with the quality and craftsmanship of the engineered parts from Jaysen as well as how detailed he was with the installation instructions. That alone saved me hours. If you follow his instructions step by step, I see no reason this should take anyone more than 4 - 4.5 hours.
I was able to complete my install in just shy of 4 hours by myself and this was the first time I had ever tried messing with the master cylinder on the V. I had a buddy stop by and help me bleed the system afterwards, which surprisingly took only about 20 minutes (without a vacuum bleeder).
Here were the three things that I had the hardest time with;
1. Getting the hydraulic line that leads to the quick connect off of the OEM master. This is because it sits at a weird angle on the bottom of the MC and you don't have much room to work with a 19mm wrench.
2. Getting the electrical pigtail off of the clutch safety switch. I don't know if I'm the only one who will have trouble getting this damn thing off, but I tried nine million different ways of getting that connector off. That alone took me nearly 20 minutes, and the cramped floor board/pedals don't add to the ease.
3. Getting the knurled collar tight enough to remove play/slop between the MC and the firewall. This is mostly because of the cramped space, but the set screws took care of the additional tightness/slop that I needed. Note - I was only able to get to two of the three set screws.
So for my initial impressions (less than 3 miles of driving), I will have to say that I'm
quite impressed with the whole rig. Just for a bit of an overview, here is my clutch/hydraulic setup.
F1 Forged 20.4 lb Flywheel
Spec Clutch
LS7 Slave (No spacer)
Philistine MC (tilton MC)
After getting everything properly bled, I no longer have the blockage previously experienced when sitting at a redlight and trying to get into first. I can also go straight to reverse without any issues or blockage when previously I would have to go through another gear prior to reverse (4th to R). I did a couple of hard shifts around 6500 RPM's from both 1st to 2nd, & 2nd to 3rd without any short of locking out issues that was previously experienced. Another very noticeable difference was the ease of downshifting, with and without rev matching. Also, another very positive upside of this MC setup is the adjustable rod arm. I was able to move my engagement point from closer to the floor to about the middle range of the MC's stroke.
Overall, I have to rate Jaysen's product as a 10/10 because it gave me everything I was lacking in the hydraulic department. Also, a 10/10 for Jaysen's dedication to this product as well as his detailed instructions.
If you haven't bought this master cylinder setup yet, you're missing out.
I was able to complete my install in just shy of 4 hours by myself and this was the first time I had ever tried messing with the master cylinder on the V. I had a buddy stop by and help me bleed the system afterwards, which surprisingly took only about 20 minutes (without a vacuum bleeder).
Here were the three things that I had the hardest time with;
1. Getting the hydraulic line that leads to the quick connect off of the OEM master. This is because it sits at a weird angle on the bottom of the MC and you don't have much room to work with a 19mm wrench.
2. Getting the electrical pigtail off of the clutch safety switch. I don't know if I'm the only one who will have trouble getting this damn thing off, but I tried nine million different ways of getting that connector off. That alone took me nearly 20 minutes, and the cramped floor board/pedals don't add to the ease.
3. Getting the knurled collar tight enough to remove play/slop between the MC and the firewall. This is mostly because of the cramped space, but the set screws took care of the additional tightness/slop that I needed. Note - I was only able to get to two of the three set screws.
So for my initial impressions (less than 3 miles of driving), I will have to say that I'm
quite impressed with the whole rig. Just for a bit of an overview, here is my clutch/hydraulic setup.
F1 Forged 20.4 lb Flywheel
Spec Clutch
LS7 Slave (No spacer)
Philistine MC (tilton MC)
After getting everything properly bled, I no longer have the blockage previously experienced when sitting at a redlight and trying to get into first. I can also go straight to reverse without any issues or blockage when previously I would have to go through another gear prior to reverse (4th to R). I did a couple of hard shifts around 6500 RPM's from both 1st to 2nd, & 2nd to 3rd without any short of locking out issues that was previously experienced. Another very noticeable difference was the ease of downshifting, with and without rev matching. Also, another very positive upside of this MC setup is the adjustable rod arm. I was able to move my engagement point from closer to the floor to about the middle range of the MC's stroke.
Overall, I have to rate Jaysen's product as a 10/10 because it gave me everything I was lacking in the hydraulic department. Also, a 10/10 for Jaysen's dedication to this product as well as his detailed instructions.
If you haven't bought this master cylinder setup yet, you're missing out.
#75
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Perfect Writeup bud!!! That is awesome, I am literally experiencing the same slight issues with blockage in first and reverse, and I figure this is only a step forward. I am a big guy (6'1", 225lb) so I hope it goes well, I will be doing this by myself. I may do it this week but I feel like I am more realistically going to get on it next Wednesday.
#77
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Becker... I am 6'2 300 lbs and I have installed, but I did not have instructions, so I have a step that will help most people that get stuck on the switch.
By the way, I could not get the plug out either and I was able to install with the switch still plugged up. I even prethreaded the rod extension, with blue loc-tite, so there was no pre-threading the extension to the switch. (this was not intentional, but it happens) My step allows for the switch to just be popped on after the arm is installed. this is a 10/10 upgrade guys. don't miss out
By the way, I could not get the plug out either and I was able to install with the switch still plugged up. I even prethreaded the rod extension, with blue loc-tite, so there was no pre-threading the extension to the switch. (this was not intentional, but it happens) My step allows for the switch to just be popped on after the arm is installed. this is a 10/10 upgrade guys. don't miss out
#78
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iTrader: (2)
Becker... I am 6'2 300 lbs and I have installed, but I did not have instructions, so I have a step that will help most people that get stuck on the switch.
By the way, I could not get the plug out either and I was able to install with the switch still plugged up. I even prethreaded the rod extension, with blue loc-tite, so there was no pre-threading the extension to the switch. (this was not intentional, but it happens) My step allows for the switch to just be popped on after the arm is installed. this is a 10/10 upgrade guys. don't miss out
By the way, I could not get the plug out either and I was able to install with the switch still plugged up. I even prethreaded the rod extension, with blue loc-tite, so there was no pre-threading the extension to the switch. (this was not intentional, but it happens) My step allows for the switch to just be popped on after the arm is installed. this is a 10/10 upgrade guys. don't miss out
A special thanks to VWD for the feedback and his efforts to make the installation that much easier. He pushed through many snags along the way and has a great deal of installation expertise/tips/tricks.
Personal thanks from me
/Jaysen
#79
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VWD, thanks for the support. I am sure the install is straight forward once in there. I have never had the urge to replace a master cylinder on any of my cars so this will the be a first. I can already see my weekend "caddy time" getting shorter and shorter for this week. So it looks like next week for me