Group Buy - philistine aftermarket clutch master cylinder.
08-27-2014, 02:16 PM
#81
Will this be offered continuously now that you're rolling or do you think the group-buy format works best for you? I'm under 40k and want to wait till I need a clutch, especially with a puppy on the way; I'm trying really hard to not pile up parts I don't need right now, but definitely want this when I need a clutch.
08-27-2014, 02:53 PM
#82
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kirkland, WA
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I just hit 60k, clutch is still good, but I'm ready for the MC upgrade anyway. Don't want any more "Oh &*^%" moments going into first gear. Ready for the next group buy.
08-27-2014, 05:50 PM
#85
Just a FYI, all of the kits were printed with instructions for the aluminum knurled collar nut which has set screws to secure in place. Some of the kits have a black oxide coated shaft collar nut with the clamping mechanism on the side.
If you received a kit with the black oxide coated shaft collar nut then you do not need the set screws and were not included in the kit. The black ones are very robust and overkill which was the reason to go with the knurled aluminum nut.
If you received a kit with the black oxide coated shaft collar nut then you do not need the set screws and were not included in the kit. The black ones are very robust and overkill which was the reason to go with the knurled aluminum nut.
08-28-2014, 08:11 AM
#88
TECH Resident
then i'll count myself as lucky for getting the black collar!
08-28-2014, 10:59 AM
#89
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For anyone else who wondered if they've damaged their blocking rings or synchros by shifting with the inadequate stock MC, my mechanic pointed out that 'every shift would be bad' if that had happened. Since I still get maybe 2/3 of my shifts without trouble, that means things are still good.
08-28-2014, 02:05 PM
#90
Just a FYI, all of the kits were printed with instructions for the aluminum knurled collar nut which has set screws to secure in place. Some of the kits have a black oxide coated shaft collar nut with the clamping mechanism on the side.
If you received a kit with the black oxide coated shaft collar nut then you do not need the set screws and were not included in the kit. The black ones are very robust and overkill which was the reason to go with the knurled aluminum nut.
If you received a kit with the black oxide coated shaft collar nut then you do not need the set screws and were not included in the kit. The black ones are very robust and overkill which was the reason to go with the knurled aluminum nut.
08-29-2014, 12:18 AM
#91
Well, the master cylinder went in with very little hiccups. I was quite impressed with the quality and craftsmanship of the engineered parts from Jaysen as well as how detailed he was with the installation instructions. That alone saved me hours. If you follow his instructions step by step, I see no reason this should take anyone more than 4 - 4.5 hours.
I was able to complete my install in just shy of 4 hours by myself and this was the first time I had ever tried messing with the master cylinder on the V. I had a buddy stop by and help me bleed the system afterwards, which surprisingly took only about 20 minutes (without a vacuum bleeder).
Here were the three things that I had the hardest time with;
1. Getting the hydraulic line that leads to the quick connect off of the OEM master. This is because it sits at a weird angle on the bottom of the MC and you don't have much room to work with a 19mm wrench.
2. Getting the electrical pigtail off of the clutch safety switch. I don't know if I'm the only one who will have trouble getting this damn thing off, but I tried nine million different ways of getting that connector off. That alone took me nearly 20 minutes, and the cramped floor board/pedals don't add to the ease.
3. Getting the knurled collar tight enough to remove play/slop between the MC and the firewall. This is mostly because of the cramped space, but the set screws took care of the additional tightness/slop that I needed. Note - I was only able to get to two of the three set screws.
So for my initial impressions (less than 3 miles of driving), I will have to say that I'm
quite impressed with the whole rig. Just for a bit of an overview, here is my clutch/hydraulic setup.
F1 Forged 20.4 lb Flywheel
Spec Clutch
LS7 Slave (No spacer)
Philistine MC (tilton MC)
After getting everything properly bled, I no longer have the blockage previously experienced when sitting at a redlight and trying to get into first. I can also go straight to reverse without any issues or blockage when previously I would have to go through another gear prior to reverse (4th to R). I did a couple of hard shifts around 6500 RPM's from both 1st to 2nd, & 2nd to 3rd without any short of locking out issues that was previously experienced. Another very noticeable difference was the ease of downshifting, with and without rev matching. Also, another very positive upside of this MC setup is the adjustable rod arm. I was able to move my engagement point from closer to the floor to about the middle range of the MC's stroke.
Overall, I have to rate Jaysen's product as a 10/10 because it gave me everything I was lacking in the hydraulic department. Also, a 10/10 for Jaysen's dedication to this product as well as his detailed instructions.
If you haven't bought this master cylinder setup yet, you're missing out.
I was able to complete my install in just shy of 4 hours by myself and this was the first time I had ever tried messing with the master cylinder on the V. I had a buddy stop by and help me bleed the system afterwards, which surprisingly took only about 20 minutes (without a vacuum bleeder).
Here were the three things that I had the hardest time with;
1. Getting the hydraulic line that leads to the quick connect off of the OEM master. This is because it sits at a weird angle on the bottom of the MC and you don't have much room to work with a 19mm wrench.
2. Getting the electrical pigtail off of the clutch safety switch. I don't know if I'm the only one who will have trouble getting this damn thing off, but I tried nine million different ways of getting that connector off. That alone took me nearly 20 minutes, and the cramped floor board/pedals don't add to the ease.
3. Getting the knurled collar tight enough to remove play/slop between the MC and the firewall. This is mostly because of the cramped space, but the set screws took care of the additional tightness/slop that I needed. Note - I was only able to get to two of the three set screws.
So for my initial impressions (less than 3 miles of driving), I will have to say that I'm
quite impressed with the whole rig. Just for a bit of an overview, here is my clutch/hydraulic setup.
F1 Forged 20.4 lb Flywheel
Spec Clutch
LS7 Slave (No spacer)
Philistine MC (tilton MC)
After getting everything properly bled, I no longer have the blockage previously experienced when sitting at a redlight and trying to get into first. I can also go straight to reverse without any issues or blockage when previously I would have to go through another gear prior to reverse (4th to R). I did a couple of hard shifts around 6500 RPM's from both 1st to 2nd, & 2nd to 3rd without any short of locking out issues that was previously experienced. Another very noticeable difference was the ease of downshifting, with and without rev matching. Also, another very positive upside of this MC setup is the adjustable rod arm. I was able to move my engagement point from closer to the floor to about the middle range of the MC's stroke.
Overall, I have to rate Jaysen's product as a 10/10 because it gave me everything I was lacking in the hydraulic department. Also, a 10/10 for Jaysen's dedication to this product as well as his detailed instructions.
If you haven't bought this master cylinder setup yet, you're missing out.
I gained more room by removing the rod end from the pedal but I still can't get that connector off.
08-30-2014, 01:41 AM
#93
Finished my install after work this afternoon. Shifts so much easier around town, it will go into gears that it would lock me out of before. Pedal is definitely much firmer than squishy factory one.
I think I have a couple modifications to the directions that can help people out.
On step 11 of the removing of the clutch pedal switch, remove the yellow plastic cover before removing the connector. It will be easier to remove the wire from the switch after its off the rod.
When putting the new master cylinder in, mock up the rod arm outside the car with the clutch switch on as a guide to see how close you need to thread it in. Then install the master + rod arm together at that set point. It was impossible to screw the rod arm on while working upside down in the confined space.
I actually think the other collar (silver knurled) would've been easier to install than the black collar. It was a pain to tighten down the set screw because it didn't line up in an accessible location. The silver knurled collar had at least 2 chances at a set screw.
All in all great product and even my fiance noticed how smooth the shifts were and she cant even drive the car.
to Philistine!
I think I have a couple modifications to the directions that can help people out.
On step 11 of the removing of the clutch pedal switch, remove the yellow plastic cover before removing the connector. It will be easier to remove the wire from the switch after its off the rod.
When putting the new master cylinder in, mock up the rod arm outside the car with the clutch switch on as a guide to see how close you need to thread it in. Then install the master + rod arm together at that set point. It was impossible to screw the rod arm on while working upside down in the confined space.
I actually think the other collar (silver knurled) would've been easier to install than the black collar. It was a pain to tighten down the set screw because it didn't line up in an accessible location. The silver knurled collar had at least 2 chances at a set screw.
All in all great product and even my fiance noticed how smooth the shifts were and she cant even drive the car.
to Philistine!
08-30-2014, 09:01 AM
#95
Tilton supplied Jaysen with a master cylinder that is missing the plug for the unused upper outlet. He said there is supposed to be capped with a removal plug that is under the rubber cap but mine doesn't have one. Glad I caught it before tearing the car down. Double check!
Bummed..I was pumped to get this installed...looks slick!
Bummed..I was pumped to get this installed...looks slick!
08-30-2014, 11:04 AM
#96
Launching!
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Received mine on Friday and cant wait to get the bleeder so that I can begin this swap. The kit looks great and after a quick trip to a cruise in last night it seems that news of this kit has made it rounds amongst us V1 drivers in the CTS-V community. Guy I met last night with a highly modified V1 asked for me to give him a call once I got it installed so he could swing by and check out the difference. He said he was on the fence about Brian's Hurst shifter until he felt mine last night as well.
08-30-2014, 02:02 PM
#99
Clutch position sensor and wire harness removal... 5min.
Wiper arm removal... 30min with a gear puller and cracked windshield.
19mm hose fitting on bottom of oem MC... Impossible. I can't even get a wrench down there much less position it and crack the fitting loose. Do I need a crows foot?
Wiper arm removal... 30min with a gear puller and cracked windshield.
19mm hose fitting on bottom of oem MC... Impossible. I can't even get a wrench down there much less position it and crack the fitting loose. Do I need a crows foot?