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iTrader: (7)

I have to pull the motor from the TOP and it looks like the wiring harness is going to be my biggest nemesis. I was doing a heads, cam, clutch, shifter, motor/trans/diff mount swap and after degreeing the cam I set the UD pulley with an old bolt. I have literally done this at least fifty times with no issues. The bolt came in and out about ten times with no issues. Anyway, about the last half inch of the bolt was still in the crank when it got really hard to turn. I tried the old tightening/loosening trick but in the end the bolt broke. So I have to pull the motor. Almost everything is already off and out of the way but it looks like the wiring harness is going to be totally in the way. I can't see a way to get the rest of the bolt out even by drilling and heat so it looks like I will be doing a forged 402. My wife is going to murder me.

Questions:

Can I pull the short block from the middle of the wiring harness?

Is there a way to unplug the harness from the fuse box to get it out of the way?

Can I just unbolt the A/C from the motor bracket and pull it that way? That is what I do on Vettes.

I am planning on just unbolting the mounts from the actual motor to gain some more room to get the short block out. Anyone see any issues with that method?

rand49er

Well chosen screen name you got.

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iTrader: (7)

Thanks. It keeps me honest on the internet and doesn't allow me to be the real jerky I am. Lol.

I think I am going to spend the rest of the day trying to drill it out in the car. We will see.

DMM

There are two connectors for the engine harness on the driver side strut tower, under the AC lines next to the exhaust manifold. Separate the harness and you should be good.

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iTrader: (7)

I see them. It also looks like I can disconnect it at the fuse box and the passenger side by the battery and pull it back to the drivers side.

Sssnake

I believe you are correct. I had mine about 80% out to mount the catch can. The larger wires are on ring terminals and the smaller on pin/socket connectors. I don't remember anything being hardwired.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Some discussion of how others have done it here. In my response to that thread I linked to my engine replacement thread that talked about how I did it (see post #18 of that thread).

Yes, the short block will come up through the harness. It's a bit of a tight fit, but it works.

I didn't do that, and don't believe that it's necessary. When I reinstalled the engine (with heads already installed) I disconnected the harness from the transmission and flopped it all forward over the front bumper. (Before and after.)

Yup, that's how I did it (so I wouldn't have to worry about evacuating and recharging the A/C).

I don't remember if I unbolted the mounts from the block, or unbolted the mounts from the cross-member, but it shouldn't matter either way.

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iTrader: (7)

Great information. I appreciate it.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

No room to weld a rod to the broken bolt in order to finish unscrewing it?

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iTrader: (7)

No, it is buried in there a couple inches. It must have been gauled up pretty bad to tear apart the way it did. I can't get a small enough bit in there to start a hole and the big bit won't even start to make a dent. I talked to a couple shops that said even if I got it out the threads are probably shot at this point. I am screwed. I have a couple stock cranks laying around that I will replace it with later. I just ordered an LS3 427 and a bigger cam. I have never been so distraught over ordering a new motor. Wasn't a good time for this to hapoen. It is going to be severely handicapped with the heads, intake and exhaust i am going to have to run for the next year or two. So I have a perfect, brand new, bad *** cam for sale for a LS2.