SOS...06 cts-v not starting
#1
SOS...06 cts-v not starting
having issues with my cts-v. Does not want to start or turn on radio or turn on dashboard, nothing. Headlights work. Doesnt want to lock/unlock with fob.
Here is what happened...
I was hooking up my nitrous switch plate, had everything connected and by mistake a wire touched the 12 V switch wire and the WOT signal wire on the ARM switch and then everything shut down. Cant get it to start after that. Tried to jump with with jjumper cables with no luck.
Damn it!!!! was getting the V ready for the 1/4 mile track this friday, hopefully we can get it started again by tomorrow.
thank you all
Here is what happened...
I was hooking up my nitrous switch plate, had everything connected and by mistake a wire touched the 12 V switch wire and the WOT signal wire on the ARM switch and then everything shut down. Cant get it to start after that. Tried to jump with with jjumper cables with no luck.
Damn it!!!! was getting the V ready for the 1/4 mile track this friday, hopefully we can get it started again by tomorrow.
thank you all
#3
It really can only be either a fuse or a relay that popped when you accidentally tapped the wires. I can't remember which ones are located in the box under the rear seat beyond the fuel pump but I would make sure to check there as well as the box up front.
#5
i just checked all the fuses and relays under the rear seat and under the hood and they are all ok.
the car now lucks and unlocks with the fob, it just doesnt light the panel lights when the key is put in the ignition and turned. radio still doesnt turn on, car still doesnt turn on, or crank at all.
the car now lucks and unlocks with the fob, it just doesnt light the panel lights when the key is put in the ignition and turned. radio still doesnt turn on, car still doesnt turn on, or crank at all.
Last edited by pipe7284; 08-27-2015 at 06:59 PM.
#6
Just a couple of ideas, based off anything i could think of that would prevent the car from turning over:
1. Fuses
2. Clutch sensor
3. Vehicle security (may have lost its link to your key which you can google the relearn procedure, or may be related to the dash lights not working)
4. Starter, or the wiring to the starter.
Sorry man, I'll post up if I think of anything else.
1. Fuses
2. Clutch sensor
3. Vehicle security (may have lost its link to your key which you can google the relearn procedure, or may be related to the dash lights not working)
4. Starter, or the wiring to the starter.
Sorry man, I'll post up if I think of anything else.
#7
Just a couple of ideas, based off anything i could think of that would prevent the car from turning over:
1. Fuses
2. Clutch sensor
3. Vehicle security (may have lost its link to your key which you can google the relearn procedure, or may be related to the dash lights not working)
4. Starter, or the wiring to the starter.
Sorry man, I'll post up if I think of anything else.
1. Fuses
2. Clutch sensor
3. Vehicle security (may have lost its link to your key which you can google the relearn procedure, or may be related to the dash lights not working)
4. Starter, or the wiring to the starter.
Sorry man, I'll post up if I think of anything else.
The ignition wire that i tapped into for the niteous switch playe was getting 12v before all this happened whith the ignition tirned to on, now i get 0 volts. I changed some relays around and still nothing. Could it be that the car thoughth that it was being stolen and shut itself competely off? How can i get it off of theft mode?
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#9
#11
well, i tried that and still no luck....
I ordered a new ignition switch to see if we get better luck with that. It was only $27. I should get it in the mail today. Will install and follow up with you all.
I ordered a new ignition switch to see if we get better luck with that. It was only $27. I should get it in the mail today. Will install and follow up with you all.
#12
**** THE IGNITION CYLINDER!!!!! **** YOU IGNITION CYLINDER!!!!!
what a bitch to work with that cylinder, i went at it for a few hours with no luck on removing it. i unplugged the battery, pulled fuses in the back, and inserted an awl from underneath the steering column to release that cylinder and it only released it so much, but not enought to compeltely remove it. I then tried to make more room to work around it and was able to remove the ignition switch (electrical) and went to put everything back in, that focking cylinder did not wanted to go back in its place. So i took the switch out again, and some plastic little ***** in that area and still no luck, im frustated!!!!...Not enough room in the cylinder area, cramped the **** up in there and nowhere to go. I tried removing the airbag and steering wheel and dont know how to either. FML!!!!!!!!
Always,
Felipe
what a bitch to work with that cylinder, i went at it for a few hours with no luck on removing it. i unplugged the battery, pulled fuses in the back, and inserted an awl from underneath the steering column to release that cylinder and it only released it so much, but not enought to compeltely remove it. I then tried to make more room to work around it and was able to remove the ignition switch (electrical) and went to put everything back in, that focking cylinder did not wanted to go back in its place. So i took the switch out again, and some plastic little ***** in that area and still no luck, im frustated!!!!...Not enough room in the cylinder area, cramped the **** up in there and nowhere to go. I tried removing the airbag and steering wheel and dont know how to either. FML!!!!!!!!
Always,
Felipe
#15
#16
IMO, taking the keyswitch apart was a no no.
I think you took out communication with the CPU(PMM) and according to the book, once ClassII communication is lost, if the PMM does not send a "wake up" command to the other modules, you are dead.
Did you probe any of the wires going to the keyswitch for 12 volts before you took it apart?
I think you took out communication with the CPU(PMM) and according to the book, once ClassII communication is lost, if the PMM does not send a "wake up" command to the other modules, you are dead.
Did you probe any of the wires going to the keyswitch for 12 volts before you took it apart?
Last edited by heavymetals; 09-03-2015 at 03:39 PM. Reason: more info
#17
IMO, taking the keyswitch apart was a no no.
I think you took out communication with the CPU(PMM) and according to the book, once ClassII communication is lost, if the PMM does not send a "wake up" command to the other modules, you are dead.
Did you probe any of the wires going to the keyswitch for 12 volts before you took it apart?
I think you took out communication with the CPU(PMM) and according to the book, once ClassII communication is lost, if the PMM does not send a "wake up" command to the other modules, you are dead.
Did you probe any of the wires going to the keyswitch for 12 volts before you took it apart?
I finally beat the **** out of the cylinder and it popped out...(I HATE YOU LOCK CYLINDER), with that happening, i need a new one. I called the dealer and they cant seem to find a lock cylinder for my V, let alone for a manual trans vehicle. I looked online and all the cylinders that are for sale are for auto transmissions only...where the hell can i source one out?
thanks
Felipe
#19
So i put everything back in with the new ignition switch. Im getting constant 12v to red/white wire, turn to on positio. And done get anything on the brownish switched 12v wire. Not getting power to the pink wire either....im taking it in to the dealer on tuesday. Dont know what else to do.
#20
So i put everything back in with the new ignition switch. Im getting constant 12v to red/white wire, turn to on positio. And done get anything on the brownish switched 12v wire. Not getting power to the pink wire either....im taking it in to the dealer on tuesday. Dont know what else to do.