FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

We all had a nasty debate about this before. My measurements indicate that the CS mount is too tall (it points the T-56 prop flange at a point above the Getrag differential input flange) and the Revshift block is almost perfect height. Brian said I was full of **** and someone else claimed I was being paid by Revshift (which is ironic, since Brian was the one getting vendor discounts/kickbacks).

Anyway, the important thing to remember is that the right solution for a Getrag, a Ford 8.8", and a Ford 9" are all going to be different because their input flanges are all at different heights. Before John @ Revshift got sick of us, he was talking about an adjustable height transmission mount. I was thinking about taking that project on, but it's not something I'd be able get to in the next 4-6 months.

What you'd probably want to do is fabricate a pair of polyurethane isolated plates that can be raised and lowered from a lower platform with a pair of fine-threaded bolts. Side to side movement would be another nice feature, but I can't see how to achieve that without resorting to slotted holes that attach to the transmission brace. Seems like a sloppy solution to me, but that's what you get when you don't have time to really think it through.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

This is from an old thread about the Revshift insert written by Revshift...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/newreply....ply&p=16985714

I don't know how you guys can actually make any claim as to what the "perfect height" is for a V1 trans mount. I guess you're making assumptions about how tall the trans mount was when it left the factory and where you feel the original engineers hoped it would be but I've never seen a service number published for this. Please share.

If you have this number, the height for the stock motor mounts would be helpful too...

I took a more realistic compromise (AKA a good guess) to the Revshift insert, I spread the stock mount with a large screwdriver, filled the gaps with sections of high pressure PS hose and 3M window weld (in stages) and let it dry for a few days before reinstalling it. Works well.

One thing about the CS kits....the mounting bracket isn't machined and I think the inconsistent performance (from a vibration stand point) we're seeing is a testament to the variances you're going to get when you're simply welding 2 pieces of steel together. I changed my pinion angle by roughly a degree and it's made all the difference and it's not hard to believe you could get this level of inconsistency in a welded, mild steel fabrication.

Is the pinion angle as critical on a factory 2 piece with CVs on either end? I tried it and didn't get any improvement from it but it certainly can't hurt. The only reason us 1 piece guys are doing it is to accommodate the U-joint found on the diff end of the 8.8 driveshaft.

tlorenzen

I also find this rather interesting. I am leaning towards staying further towards to filter because I believe it will help mitigate the heat soak in the sensor but realize the real temps entering the engine will obviously be higher. If you could estimate the average amount of temperature increase between the filter and where the air enters at the valves and compensate for that with some resistance, I believe that would be the most effective. Although were talking a very small percentage of any performance gain to be had and further in depth than I would like to go on a daily street car. Maybe if you follow through with your testing equipment that would be a feasible method to go about.

Bud - I have the Revshift trans block in there, its hard to see cause its dirty as hell haha. I've been considering switching the the actual CS trans mount though. Just not high on the priority list right now. I'm pretty sure the Revshift block did raise the rear of the trans a bit cause it took a lot to get that thing in there, but it was obvious that the stock mount was sagging a bit. I'm sure if I could get a laser mounted to the diff pinion, I could get the alignment even closer with some shims on the rear side of subframe...(If the pinion is angled too far down)..Just a little trial and error.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

IIRC, Revshift bought a new mount from a GM parts supplier and measured its height under load on an 04-05 CTS-V. Then they reinstalled the original mount from that V1 and machined their prototype insert down until they achieved the same loaded height as the brand-new mount.

My conclusion that the Revshift + OEM mount was the "perfect" height was based doing a laser boresight back in 08/2014 on my CTS-V from the transmission to the Getrag input flange. Without any adjustments, the dot was almost dead nuts on vertically and about 1/2" off to one side. Granted, I also had 80A Revshift motor mounts installed, so that might have influenced my results.

I took my OEM motor mounts off when the car only had 18,000 miles, so they're in pretty good condition. If you really want unloaded measurements, I'll dig them out of my giant box of OEM CTS-V crap. Not sure what good it'll do you, because you really need loaded mount height to compare them against a different design with a different durometer. I'm not putting them back on my car to measure their height...sorry.

In general, I agree with your sentiment that CS stuff is pretty poor quality, although I doubt (based on your history) you appreciate me extending that statement to their other products. They basically use cheap materials and simple processes--a perfect example is the rough DOM they use for their bushing cores, whereas when you buy Revshift, you're getting nicely machined aluminum or steel pieces (depending on application).

Even CS' outsourced work sucks--I have their wide wheel trailing arms, which had to be immediately sent off to get re-powdercoated because the red CS coating was flaking off in big chunks and I was afraid that the welds were going to start rusting. People forget that I didn't start with the anti-CS sentiment I hold now--I gave CS more than their fair shake. The only thing I've ever really liked is their installation tools--those are solid, especially when you're new to modding cars and don't have a full garage full of tools.

Although this probably goes without saying, CVs are much more forgiving than universal joints when it comes to handling misalignment angles. In a system with a CV joint on the transmission end and a universal joint on the differential end, the whole rule about "make the misalignment angles equal and opposite" goes out the window.

For smooth high-speed operation, you need to adjust your driveline to minimize the angle on the universal joint end--even if that means tripling or quadrupling the misalignment angle on the CV joint end. Once you're close, you need to account for the fact that the differential will rotate upward under cruising throttle by 1-2 degrees by setting/shimming the stationary misalignment angle on the differential end to -1 or -2 degrees.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Seein all this ds talk has me interested in buyin a laser, but what shotgun gauge do i get that will fit properly?

I am goin to swap the diff bushings and i already am full revshift on the engine and tranny so a little shim here and there should help me get a dead on effect.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

You need to machine a sleeve to slide over the tailshaft that you can then insert the laser into.

Why Revshift wouldn't declare this and create a video around this procedure so their customers can check their own mounts is beyond me. That's how you'd sell inserts....and they'd need to after spending over $500 for the mount as the only way I know to get it is by buying the complete crossmember. BTW, if they still have this mount, I'd buy it a deep discount of course.

As GM never shimmed the driveshaft carrier from the factory, I would have taken the measurement to the center of the carrier bearing instead. Getting the trans in line with the input shaft on the gertrag does nothing for the alignment of the flex disc if you're still using a 2 piece.

The 1/2" to one side is pretty concerning and with my UMIs, I had more than that. After installing my CS mounts, it was straight as an arrow and, as I'm using a 1 piece, was just a little low IIRC using my doctored factory trans mount. Maybe you should get some CS mounts.

Come on man! The unloaded height is of little use unfortunately.

I'm not looking for agreement.

I couldn't design, build and powder coat the CS 8.8 mounting bracket for what they're asking for it so even in its unmachined state, I'm fine with it. I highly doubt any of us could afford a machined assembly with a guaranteed accuracy, especially when we're bolting it to another non-machined assembly AKA the rear cradle mounted on flexible bushings bolted to another unmachined surface, the unibody.

I understand you have issues and having served the general public in the powersports industry, I know you can't make everyone happy (especially engineers LOL!!!). As you're pretty much the only person that I've seen with issues regarding CS products, I'll take you're opinion with a grain of salt. Me personally, I've had good luck with these guys....

I'm glad we agree on this although Frank at DSS said he felt the u-jointed 1 piece needed to operate at a working angle of 1.5 to 2 degrees. Mine is more like 2.5 to 3 but hey, it seems to be happy there so I'll color outside the lines and go with whats working for me.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

Hmm... a bracket with a small hole in the center that bolts to the carrier holes.... Which allows you to center/align the transmission to the carrier and pass through to the diff which allows you to center align the cradle/diff to the trans..... I like it.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Might work for me since i am lookin to do my center bearin on site...

This way i can see the alignment of trans to center then center to diff

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

In all fairness, I don't think anyone can claim credit for this idea over Val Kilmer.. It was in my favorite movie. You put a lens of some sort in the carrier bearing location, and then a giant ball of popcorn on the tailshaft of the transmission. When the fun starts, you know it's all aligned.

I'm a hybrid cheap-***...8.8 but went with the adapter for the factory two-piece. Still going to try this when I get my rear reassembled. Maybe find an empty carrier to bolt up? Or just measure and make something out of scrap wood to mimic the "hole" location for the middle bearing.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

That's some pretty funny stuff right there....

I'd bet Voodoo is working on this as we speak so I'd PM him to get him rolling!

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Wouldn't shimming be a simpler solution? To raise, shim under the trans mount studs with washers. To lower, shim the cross member from the top with washers.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Shimming up is a challenge as you could eventually get driveshaft to shifter clearance issues with certain driveshafts. Shimming down won't really be a factor as far as I've seen based on the geometry of it all...it's either down with the front of the cradle or up with the transmission to fix the problems we've seen on the V1.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I was just saying that rather than design a more complex mount, that washers could allow for any adjustments.

I already had the shifter to driveshaft clearance issues. I ended up shimming the base of the shifter with some 3/8" mcmaster carr rubber sheet I had laying around. Not ideal, but worked in a pinch.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

A transmission mount with widened upper mounting so you could use a set of shim spacers to align your transmission side to side up to 1/2"... I think it's a good idea.. who knows how many drivetrains are not centered side to side.... I'm guessing youd want an offset anyways so that when your drivetrain torques under load, it's closer to center ...than starting centered and torquing off to the side. The oem flex disc is an amazing piece of equipment.


Honestly I'd love to get a few of the laser alignment deals from creative steel and water jet our carrier alignment tool I mentioned a minute ago...and offer that as a rental unit.. but I don't want to impede on CS toes for tool rentals. :/ Maybe I'll give them a call.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

There's already slots in the trans crossmember which will essentially do the same thing...if you can get the motor mounts to flex enough. Working on jack stands, I wasn't able to get much movement and I'm sure if I was on a lift I could align it any way I want but the problem then becomes what you're doing to the longevity of the motor mounts by twisting them.

Of course, you could also realign the entire front subframe to straighten it all out but then you're realigning the front end. I think 2 of the 4 subframe mounting holes are slotted to allow for this.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I think those guys would be cool with it as I think they just lend it out. You could make a cottage industry out of offering such alignment kits for other platforms.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You could probably sell a piece of tube machined to mate with a common laser boresight for $50 and sell it to a good percentage of GM T-56 based platforms.

The better and more universal solution would be to work with MightyMouse and have him laser-cut an aluminum plate (similar to the 6 shooter couplers) with all of the different Ford/Chevy T-56 and TR-6060 propeller/coupler bolt patterns on it.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I smell a patent brewing...

gtistile

How is it that you have managed to develop *everything* that's ever come to market for the V1, but the designs were all stolen from you? You either have hired spies that steal all your products like a thief in the night, and in all your genius can't figure out how to stop that from happening, OR you are full of ******* ****.

So please, without writing a novel-length response full of bullshit words only found in a thesaurus, explain yourself. Your antics are stale as hell and you're the only one that doesn't realize it.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Hyperbole much? Sounds like you've bought the load of crap fed to you by Brian, Jaysen, and Creative Steel. Now that you've got a car that can do 10.4 seconds slow in a straight line, you think you're hot ****. I've got news for you: nobody gives a crap.

Here's a question for you: who else on in the V1 community has developed anything for the V1 in the past five years? You've got RecklessV with his bondo mods, SevillianSTS with his trunk *****, Naf with his eccentric mods that he won't share, and that's about it. We got a garbage carbon fiber spoiler, Junior-1 that wants us to help him fund his custom carbon fiber hood, and Brian, 54inches, and Creative Steel that fed off others' design ideas and drawings for shifters and bushings and control arms and now sell them.

Do you know why nobody makes stuff for the CTS-V? You can point to the small numbers of V1s available as an excuse, but there are plenty of communities that have small numbers and do well. The problem is that the community is predominantly filled with trashy, third-generation V1 owners who couldn't afford the car when it was new, a vendor that's willing to copy designs, slander, and leverage unscrupulous moderators to squash competition.

Meanwhile on Facebook, Brian mobilized the troops against me and John @ Revshift--my website was DDoSed several times, my personal phone number and email address were passed to Russian and Asian advertising firms, I was served with fake lawsuits, I was getting dozens of fake registrations on VSF every couple of hours, people were commenting on Facebook saying that they'd like to drive out to Connecticut and "trash my car"--the list goes on and on.

Speaking of which, Creative Steel is constantly pinging the various forums, grabbing everything they can from users--Naf, myself, and a few other guys. They used to hit VSF up constantly, based on my IP logs--gobbling up uploaded images and posts. Regarding the laser alignment tool, I put up pictures and a description of my laser alignment technique on VSF and voila! A few months later, I hear that Creative Steel has "developed" a laser alignment tool. I could go on and on.

Even "Jaysen's" design (which he called and texted me every day and night to consult on) was tailor-made to discourage copying by Creative Steel, which is ironic because he got in bed with Brian and Max shortly thereafter. According to Revshift, only a few people know that Creative Steel got their start by ripping off a Revshift motor mount design--the rivalry has continued ever since. Every time Revshift creates a product, there's a new Creative Steel product that has suspiciously similar dimensions.