CTS-V1 5x115/120 Conversion Parts/Methods
#61
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
edited the first post to add in information about swapping to base CTS hubs for the 5x115 bolt pattern instead of 5x4.75, which is preferable in the wheel choice world.
the base CTS hubs bolt right up. the hub bore is the same as stock. the remainder of the modifications remain the same with modifying the rotors to match the bolt pattern.
the base CTS hubs bolt right up. the hub bore is the same as stock. the remainder of the modifications remain the same with modifying the rotors to match the bolt pattern.
#64
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Bump
Is this not a sticky yet?
I'm thinking of going to the dark side and doing this. Which means I have aspirations of 15" wheels with drags for the back.
But anyway....Bio...Can you post what that wheel looks like with inside clearance? Before I take this plunge I'd like to know if I could get a 10.5 wheel to fit under the fender and not rub the coil over.
Is this not a sticky yet?
I'm thinking of going to the dark side and doing this. Which means I have aspirations of 15" wheels with drags for the back.
But anyway....Bio...Can you post what that wheel looks like with inside clearance? Before I take this plunge I'd like to know if I could get a 10.5 wheel to fit under the fender and not rub the coil over.
#65
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
****....i have to do my own measuring for my own wheels, haha.
the forgestar drags are 17x9.5 +37 in 6 lug, and i know for a fact that V2 sedan fitment welds/forgestars work at 17x10 +44 (and 15x10 +44 with brake work). i've seen a few guys running 10.5 +45, but that's into the stock trailing arms in the real world.
i'm assuming that since you're true coil you got the CS arms so the LCA is no longer a clearance issue with the wheels where the spring bucket is. therefore your clearance issue is going to come from the coilover and the trailing arms and POTENTIALLY the body if you're gonna go nuts with it.
if you wanted to toss around ideas about wheels shoot me a PM for find me on facebook (which is where i spend most of my time...).
the forgestar drags are 17x9.5 +37 in 6 lug, and i know for a fact that V2 sedan fitment welds/forgestars work at 17x10 +44 (and 15x10 +44 with brake work). i've seen a few guys running 10.5 +45, but that's into the stock trailing arms in the real world.
i'm assuming that since you're true coil you got the CS arms so the LCA is no longer a clearance issue with the wheels where the spring bucket is. therefore your clearance issue is going to come from the coilover and the trailing arms and POTENTIALLY the body if you're gonna go nuts with it.
if you wanted to toss around ideas about wheels shoot me a PM for find me on facebook (which is where i spend most of my time...).
#66
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
I just came to the realization that no matter what, there is machining required?
That sucks. It's either the bearings or the rotors? I guess whenever I go have my bearings machined (I chose them over the rotors) I will have an extra front and rear done for spares.
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it more difficult to have the rotors machined?
Also, the parking brake "assembly" do they sell that as an all in one? or do you have to piece it together?
That sucks. It's either the bearings or the rotors? I guess whenever I go have my bearings machined (I chose them over the rotors) I will have an extra front and rear done for spares.
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it more difficult to have the rotors machined?
Also, the parking brake "assembly" do they sell that as an all in one? or do you have to piece it together?
#67
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
yeah, unfortunately no matter what you need to modify something.
i pieced together the assembly. i don't think there's a kit that includes all of it.
i would say it depends on the equipment being used to machine the parts that makes it easier or harder based on the part. rotors have a pretty big diameter which is probably the hardest thing about it.
however...at 66.9mm to 70.3mm you could likely use a dremel and get away with it...
i pieced together the assembly. i don't think there's a kit that includes all of it.
i would say it depends on the equipment being used to machine the parts that makes it easier or harder based on the part. rotors have a pretty big diameter which is probably the hardest thing about it.
however...at 66.9mm to 70.3mm you could likely use a dremel and get away with it...
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