What is the normal battery draw?
04-11-2017, 08:16 PM
#41
04-12-2017, 07:02 AM
#42
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04-12-2017, 08:16 AM
#43
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My last boat was MICHIGAN (SSGN 727), toting 105 Tomahawks around the Western Pacific along with a few dozen SEALs and 2 SDVs. 
I wish the Onstar module would talk to TLAMs, might be useful for clearing out left lane blockers.
I wish the Onstar module would talk to TLAMs, might be useful for clearing out left lane blockers.
04-12-2017, 09:04 AM
#44
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USS Florida 728 SSGN, had the privilege of unloading quite a few in a mission
Good to know their is someone else here with their fish
04-12-2017, 11:37 AM
#45
My is at Lindsay now to troubleshoot something else, and I asked them to locate the parasitic draw (it would kill the battery in a day if I didn't drive it). They found 2 loads - headlight washers relay and Onstar module - creating a 300ma draw. I don't use either of those, so I told 'em to just leave those disconnected. With those disconnected, it's down to a 13ma draw.
Hindsight being 20/20, wish I had thought to pull the relays/fuses for stuff I never use, on the off chance those components were the source(s) of the parasitic draw - I could've ruled some **** out without impacting my use of the car at all.
Hindsight being 20/20, wish I had thought to pull the relays/fuses for stuff I never use, on the off chance those components were the source(s) of the parasitic draw - I could've ruled some **** out without impacting my use of the car at all.
04-12-2017, 07:42 PM
#46
Obviously, what I said earlier was complete gibberish but I'm guessing you know where I work. Plenty of former nukes, XOs, and COs in my engineering department. We prioritize hiring retired sailors with advanced degrees because they tend to be high intelligence, very hard working, and understand the customer.
04-20-2017, 01:28 PM
#48
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Got my new alternator on today. Rockauto.com ending up refunding me my money because they were still out of stock. So I bought a brand new alternator and everything is working fine now.
04-20-2017, 05:13 PM
#49
Jeez, you think these cars are money pits now: Imagine how fast the bill tallies up sending a Tomahawk down on every ****** that blocks the left lane. Also make sure you're not too close when that damn thing arrives! Perhaps a Javelin would be more efficient? Dillon aero more satisfying? Just thinking out loud...
04-27-2017, 04:34 PM
#54
Maximum recommend draw for a car with today electronics is 0.030 amps a draw of 0.1 amps will kill a battery with in a few days.
Now when you test for an electrical draw you need to let the vehicle sit for 30-45 mins before you get a true reading. It takes about 30-45 mins for all of the electrical modules to time out a shut down completely.
No car built in the last 30-40+ years will have a 0.000 amp draw.
Here is how to test.
Hook your amp meter in line with your positive battery cable.
Make sure you have access to all of the fuse boxes, if you have to have a door open be sure to latch the door latch with a screw driver so it thinks the door is closed.
Let the car sit for 30-45 mins for all of the electrical modules to time out and power down completely.
Then start pulling fuse by fuse while watching the amp meter and looking for a drop in AMPs. Start with the interior fuse box as most interior fuse boxes are powered by a larger fuse in the Battery (under hood) fuse box.
Once you have found the fuse that is the source of the draw, then you need to find all of the items powered by that fuse. Replace all of the fuses, wait 30-45 mins, then start unplugging each item powered by that fuse until you have the source of your draw.
Now when you test for an electrical draw you need to let the vehicle sit for 30-45 mins before you get a true reading. It takes about 30-45 mins for all of the electrical modules to time out a shut down completely.
No car built in the last 30-40+ years will have a 0.000 amp draw.
Here is how to test.
Hook your amp meter in line with your positive battery cable.
Make sure you have access to all of the fuse boxes, if you have to have a door open be sure to latch the door latch with a screw driver so it thinks the door is closed.
Let the car sit for 30-45 mins for all of the electrical modules to time out and power down completely.
Then start pulling fuse by fuse while watching the amp meter and looking for a drop in AMPs. Start with the interior fuse box as most interior fuse boxes are powered by a larger fuse in the Battery (under hood) fuse box.
Once you have found the fuse that is the source of the draw, then you need to find all of the items powered by that fuse. Replace all of the fuses, wait 30-45 mins, then start unplugging each item powered by that fuse until you have the source of your draw.
Okay, so just to confirm, you are putting the probes in series with the cable and the battery? Such that battery cable <---- probe <---- DMM ----> Probe ----> Battery terminal. Also, I would use the positive side, electrons actually work backwards then what everyone thinks, the whole negative charge argument and how it should be laid out, though your value shouldnt change if the draw is there. The other problem using the negative side is that if you do have a short, the grounds can act as a float and give you a weird reading. This is all through my own experience, so take it with a grain of salt.
The lug on the alternator is where you connect the power wire to, sorry, but that what I call them, lugs. Take positive probe (red) to the lug, with power wire disconnected, and then the com probe (black) to the housing of the alternator. You may have to spin the alternator some, you should get OL or 0ohms. What I am trying to confirm is if you have a bad winding and it is brushing up against something it shouldn't and that could be why every time you did your test you did or didn't have a draw, although if the diode is good, the alternator shouldnt be in play period, one of the wires could either be shorting or grounding and you plugging and unplugging them can make that change. Time to do the wiggle test! Your next bet is just get another alternator and slap it on their and see what happens, if nothing changes, return it and start over.
The lug on the alternator is where you connect the power wire to, sorry, but that what I call them, lugs. Take positive probe (red) to the lug, with power wire disconnected, and then the com probe (black) to the housing of the alternator. You may have to spin the alternator some, you should get OL or 0ohms. What I am trying to confirm is if you have a bad winding and it is brushing up against something it shouldn't and that could be why every time you did your test you did or didn't have a draw, although if the diode is good, the alternator shouldnt be in play period, one of the wires could either be shorting or grounding and you plugging and unplugging them can make that change. Time to do the wiggle test! Your next bet is just get another alternator and slap it on their and see what happens, if nothing changes, return it and start over.
Thank you.
My is at Lindsay now to troubleshoot something else, and I asked them to locate the parasitic draw (it would kill the battery in a day if I didn't drive it). They found 2 loads - headlight washers relay and Onstar module - creating a 300ma draw. I don't use either of those, so I told 'em to just leave those disconnected. With those disconnected, it's down to a 13ma draw.
Hindsight being 20/20, wish I had thought to pull the relays/fuses for stuff I never use, on the off chance those components were the source(s) of the parasitic draw - I could've ruled some **** out without impacting my use of the car at all.
Hindsight being 20/20, wish I had thought to pull the relays/fuses for stuff I never use, on the off chance those components were the source(s) of the parasitic draw - I could've ruled some **** out without impacting my use of the car at all.
Right!