Mike ctsV

And i got to figure out where to have these welded at, i figured have them both pointing each other on the insides, like here



Or a lil closer to the flange, and got to find somebody to weld it for me, got one price somebody said for 150 but that seems a little high just to weld these two damn things

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

Why do your kooks not have the bungs already welded in? My 1 7/8 came with the o2 bungs.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

As promised:



The headers go through the bottom. You should do a test fit to see if you need to dent the headers before they get coated, because hammering on the ceramic will chip it. Consider the test fit an opportunity to replace the exhaust gaskets and fasteners, and get familiarized with the process of getting the headers in and out. I estimate 4-6 hours for your first try. Be careful when removing the bolt near the coolant temperature sensor--I (and many other people) have broken that plastic connector with a wrench multiple times. Fortunately they're only $16.

Are you running stock exhaust? I bet you're not prepared to connect the headers to the exhaust. This isn't plug and play. This test fit will be a great learning experience. You will probably need some 2.5" clamps (here's my favorite design) and a sawzall but you may need more extensive modifications to get the angle correct. I've only adapted the Kooks headers to a Magnaflow so I don't know what is required for the stock exhaust. I was such an idiot when I first started--I had no idea that this stuff wasn't plug and play and had to cobble together something until I could get to a shop to have my catback slightly modified.

As previously stated you need one extra M18 bung to accept a wideband sensor when you get your car tuned. If it's not there, the tuner will charge you for the necessary modifications (or turn you away at the door if they have a busy schedule), and if your headers are coated, drilling and sanding that area to install the bung will remove some of the coating.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

Over the course of owning my car I've had it on the dyno many times. I've visited multiple dyno shops, and never was having an extra bung a requirement. Every dyno/tuner I've been to has a wide band that's integrated into the dyno, they have a big sniffer they stick in the exhaust tip. I do have a wide band gauge in my car. I put the bung right after the ball flange on the mid pipe so I wouldn't have to cut a second hole in the header. It reads spot on comparing it to the dyno device in real time.

Mike ctsV

[QUOTE=FuzzyLog1c;19668530]As promised:






Ohhh i see what your sayin now, duhhh...
But i got the exhaust clamps that came with the connection pipes, and i know ill have to cut them so i already know about that part too, i got a sawzall, i just have to get a good blade. And they will be connecting to a factory Exhaust sytem for now, it only has a muffler delete

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

As Fuzzy noted, you'll need to test fit the drivers side, unfortunately. Sounds like a big PITA, but it's really not that bad using the method I described. I had to remove my drivers side recently and had it back in within an hour. Hopefully your bolts are in fair condition and not seized up post-cats. Hit them with some penetrating fluid in advance. The steering shaft is a bit of a pain. You'll need to fool around with it a bit to fit the header past it. If I recall correctly I think the shaft needs to be compressed slightly (pushed in towards the firewall). Oh, and don't forget the spark plugs come out first.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I like PB Blaster or Deep Creep. There's one more aviation type option that's good that I can't recall ATM.

Mike ctsV

The cats should unbolt from the catback, cause when i did the driver side mount i hd to take off that cat, and the bolts snapped so i had to torch them out, and i think the dealer un loosend the driver side recently when i had to have the fuel pump recall done, so those should come off fairly good

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I would find a better tuner. Catalytic converters work by oxidizing the exhaust byproducts passing through them. Therefore, the reading after the cats will always be leaner than it is before the cats, but not by a consistent amount.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

I don't have cats, tuner is just fine.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You're in denial--that's fine. A wideband in the tailpipe is only accurate at WOT (due to lack of sufficient airflow elsewhere). Only an amateur would tune for WOT alone and not driveability across the whole power range.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you use the first set of nuts to turn the bolts into studs. Sounds like a good idea

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

You should be good, then. You don't need to remove the cat from the manifold and can remove them as a unit, but you do need to remove from the catback portion.

Mike ctsV

Thanks for all the info and help so far everybody

Mike ctsV

Gonna take my headers tomorrow to get the bungs welded in. Do u guys suggest welding them both on the inside, where they would point each other? Just like in the pics i posted on post number 41?

kra86

If they are pointing near each other, than one could surmise that the sensors would be in each others way when everything is mounted and installed, yes?

Mike ctsV

Found this pic online, figured if i welded them, one on each pipe, on the insides near the flange, facing the tranny, looks like plenty of room to me? Or im wrong. Where would u guys suggest then? Or am i suppose to add them both to just the drivers side header? Im confused

isis

iTrader: (1)

Aerokroil is the spray. Or just Kroil if you like to use a dropper. It's amazing stuff. PB Blaster is just OK and smells really f'in bad.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

That's it, thanks man!

Mike ctsV

Anyone know where i should have these bungs welded in at? I figured id add one to each header, or do i need to add the two extra bungs only to one header, drivers side?